In the U.S.A., we live in a litigious society, and for those of you who live in Rio Linda, that means fools will do really stupid crap, and then sue someone else, because "It's their fault, they made me do it!". For those of you that don't know what you're doing... STAY AWAY FROM TRIGGERS... you can hurt someone (usually someone else!)
Adjusting triggers is something that was once an expected job by the owner of a new gun, just like adjusting the seats in your new car.
But Remington (because of many lawsuits) takes a very dim view of adjusting their triggers... it's number "1" under Remington's "Felony list of no-no's".
Be advised, if you adjust the trigger, and send the gun back to Remington (in the USA) for repairs, they will charge you for a new trigger (they will NOT re-adjust the old one).
.. and finely, your mileage may vary according to road conditions. If you are new at guns, and lack experience to do internal minor repairs and parts replacement... this may not be for you. Do not do the following unless you are skilled enough to work on guns, and responsible enough to handle them safely. I'm presenting this information as "Information Only"... it is SOLELY your decision whether you have the skill and ability to use this information.
If you have an accident, it means that you weren't skilled enough, or responsible enough, so you shouldn't have done the following, so it's not my fault, neither Sniper Country's!
The Remington triggers are very good, except they come with a built in lawyer, and he weighs about 9 or 10 pounds.
You will need a bit of good quality gun oil (CLP or equivalent), and a set of small screwdrivers, and some white or red nail polish.
Remove the barreled action from the stock.
Looking at the gun and trigger so the safety is up, and the barrel is pointing to your right... the front of the trigger is to your right...
The three screws are as follows...
First, break the white "Seals of God" and screw the three screws out enough so that you see several threads.
They may be hard at first, but they are NOT staked in place. The screws and trigger body are carbon steel, and may be rusted, or they may have a sealant on them. Just break them free. Drop a teeny bit of oil on the threads. Run the screws in and out several times until the oil is in the threads, and they turn freely.
OK, now down to business.
Back out the spring tension screw out until there is just enough pressure to keep the trigger forward, but it's very light (4 or 5 oz's) and easy to move.
Back out the engagement screw, (the single screw on the left) and the over-travel screw (the upper screw on your right) out, so there's play to adjust.
Close the bolt on a cocked pin (don't pull the trigger) and VERY SLOWLY turn the engagement screw (on your left) in until the firing pin drops. Back it out about 1/3 to 1/2 of a turn. With the firing pin down, you should now feel the trigger wobble back and forth if you pull it because there is excessive over travel.
Because the back surface of the trigger is NOT undercut, you have to adjust over-travel with the pin "down".
Now, with the firing pin in the "fired" position, screw in the over-travel screw until it "just touches" the trigger lightly, preventing the trigger from moving... back out the over travel screw 1/4 turn. Pulling the trigger now, (with the pin "down") you should feel just the "slightest" free movement.
Now turn in the spring tension screw (lower right) to a pull that you like... I'd strongly suggest a good trigger pull gauge, instead of guessing.
Cock the pin and try it... it should break like glass.
Put white or red nail polish on the screws. Let dry, and put another coat on it again, and again.
There will be no "take up slack", this is a single stage trigger, and can't be adjusted to act like a two stage.
These triggers are easily capable of going to 24-26 oz's, and they keep the setting year after year, and I've never had to re-adjust one.