Sniper Country Duty Roster

April 18, 1999 to April 26, 1999



Just finished camming up my spotting scope and tripod, and it looks good, even if I do say so myself. I used that cerex stuff that has the little die-cut leafs that are shaped kind of like willow leafs, and pieces of camo netting, like tank netting. I cut the cerex into strips and tied it onto the top of each of the tripod legs, wrapping to the bottom, throwing a couple of half hitch knots at the foot of the leg, wrapping back to the top, and tying the wrap off. I used the camo netting, tied on at the top of the tripod body, to camo the body. When I did the scope itself, I used a combo of cerex and netting, which gives lots of contrast in color, shape, and texture. I let a flap of cerex hang off the bottom of the scope tube up front to cover the lens cover when I fold the cover down. The irregular cut of the cloth and camo pattern disguises that big, fat round target signature the lens cover makes. I also left extra cerex tied in at the front of the tube to pull over the edges of the objective end to break up that circular shape also. All adjusting knobs are clear and easily reached. All in all, it blends well. No scope, no tripod, just a little bush. It also helps to break up the observer's front when he is on the scope. The reason I didn't use any burlap was to try and keep the dust factor to a minimum. I find the materials I used to cammy my scope and tripod make much less dust than burlap.
Turfrat
USA - Sunday, April 18, 1999 at 00:11:03 (ZULU) 
Westforce - If you want me to paint your rifle I'll do it but its really kind of like building a ghillie suit. You really need to go for the gusto and try it yourself. Suggestion is to get yourself a medium light brown color for the base coat and paint the entire rifle with it. Break up the outline with darker brown and light green (all flat of course). Remember, keep the pattern large as even a BDU woodland camo pattern "blobs" at 100yds. SO dont go too fine even though it looks cool up close. Don't forget to paint the inside of your scope covers. Make yourself a scoe shade from PVC and have fun cammying it with burlap or twine(use hot glue) inside and out.

Torsten - Acceptable group size from a tripod/sitting? Should be the same as prone. I don't like sticks/arrows. I like a camera tripod. Its a little bulky but it is useful from prone (on its side) to standing.

What is there to say about M118LR? Its good shit.

Robins egg blue huh? Its after Easter guys. Earth tones are in.

Out here
gooch <pte00791@mail.wvnet.edu>
USA - Sunday, April 18, 1999 at 01:43:46 (ZULU) 



In past year have read article re muzzle flash test from various 223 ammo. Please help me recall which ammo had low or very low flash.
Think Hornady TAP may have been quite low.
Thanks for any assistance
Ecross <ecross27@aol.com>
Bethel, NC, usa - Sunday, April 18, 1999 at 02:18:56 (ZULU) 
peteR: I have one of those dreaded Rugers in .308 with a "Varment" style muzzle break. There is essentially no dust signature as the blast is deflected up in a V blast. It's not that loud either. I don't know who makes the brake. I took my gun to Dale Story, (Great Gunsmith),in Casper, WY, told him what I was looking for and he did the rest. Cost was about $200. The brake has had no effect on accuracy, but it seems that most of the folks that frequent this page don't believe that the words Ruger and accuracy can be used in the same sentence.
Mike O'Brien <atrus@coffey.com>
Evansville, WY, USA - Sunday, April 18, 1999 at 05:22:11 (ZULU) 
Howdy everyone!
I've been following you guys for a while and you really sound like you have it together.
To start, Im no sniper, not even close, I'm an enthusiast at best (long range target.. someday hopefully).
I am in the market to buy a 700PSS .308 and will use it for paper punching at long ranges, and possibly hunting. I want to use the weapon for long range varmit shooting as well.
After doing a bit of research, I understand that sabot/.223 rounds make great use in a .308, so it leaves me with these questions:
1. Has anyone had any experience with this type of round and if so, is it accurate enough for say 400 yards?
2. I want to buy two scopes, one will be the vari-X (.308) and the other will be whatever is good for varmit (sabot/.223)(any advice is more than welcome), but I will need a mounting system that will allow me to change scopes without need for recalibration.. Is this possible or does this exist?

I do have a budget, but am willing to pay for a system that will work.

This may be a little off topic for your group, but any reply would be greatly appreciated..

Thanks guys!

Bruce <citizen__kane@hotmail.com>
Oklahoma, USA - Sunday, April 18, 1999 at 08:19:22 (ZULU) 


Well since everyone is talking about painting, yes Gooch and I have already talked off-line, thought I'd offer this to those "afraid" of ending up with an "ugly" gun. Do you have a hard case you take your weapon to the range in??? If so you have a very good way to "practice" painting your rifle! Paint just one side of the case at a time. If you don't like the way it came out - practice again on the other side. STILL don't like it - repaint the whole thing black and either start over or leave it black! This way you end up with a camo'd case (or back to basic black) haven't screwed up your weapon, and have practiced hopefully to the point where you'll feel comfortable painting the weapon! This is how I'm progressing and I'll be doing the second side of one of my cases today - first side came out pretty good just want more practice! Sarge Jr. even said he wanted me to do his case so I have even more "area" to practice on before getting to the weapons!

Sarge

Sarge <garryrn@dfn.com>
Area 51, NM, USA - Sunday, April 18, 1999 at 14:39:38 (ZULU) 


recently purchased thompson encore in 308 and reloading equipment
been experimenting but im new at this...loading 150 gr nosler ballistips..43.5 grains of imr 4895...15" barrel..
have not been able to find any reloading info taking the short barrell into consideration...should i use a faster burning powdre? would a smaller bullet like 125 or 130 gr perform better?
the best groups ive shot so far are 1.5" at 100 yds..tried higher pow
der charge and group widens to 3- 4 inches with 46 grns
i would appreciate any advice i can get...by the way piece will be used soley for deer hunting...max shot in these woods is 150 yds most time cant see past 50
thanks,
jerry bearden

jerry bearden <http://www.jerrybga@aol.com>
USA - Sunday, April 18, 1999 at 15:24:51 (ZULU) 


Bruce----
Consider the PSS in .223----Its cheaper to shoot, kicks less on those high volume days, and is more accurate than a 223 sabot rd from a 308. Plus, it has a 1 in 9" twist, so you can shoot heavy for caliber bullets. If you must have a 308----the bullets you shoot at paper are more than adequate for long range varminting. Plus, they are easier to load than sabots. One scope in the Vari-XIII LR or Mk4 categories should be perfect ---- no need for two.Use a good set of mounts--Leupold, MWG, Badger Ord, etc.. and you should be in business.. Just my humble opinion----I know ---everybody has one....
Jamison <JamisonL@mscarriers.com>
Memphis, TN, USA - Sunday, April 18, 1999 at 16:14:48 (ZULU) 
Pat:

I've tried on 2 or 3 occasions to post to the Roster, but got "500 Server Error". Trying to acknowledge your test w/ N540. Yesterday I checked scope settings on two load for 260 cause I'm shooting in a match this Sat. at Ft. Benning. May have to try this 540 stuff. So far N160 and Varget are working for the 142 MKs.

And today is my last day of working on Sun. Very good cause guess when most of the matches are held? Hooyah

Jeff A.

Jeff A. <d1k2l3@aol.com>
Smyrna, Ga, USA - Sunday, April 18, 1999 at 17:01:34 (ZULU) 


Scott
Found my G-43 shooter today. So now I have to make up some ammo. As a side point don't use oil to lube your lugs or carrier and not the locking piece. A small swab of a good grease or the action will move to fast and beat it self to death.

If you are still interested in scope caps I will get a picture of mine with a polaroid and scan it.

Don't count on MOA or even 3''. I also found an extra scope and 214 mount to put on it. I has been so long in storage I for got it had the book and spare parts kit in the butt trap too.

MJ
MJ <montereyjack@kmenterprises.com>
Monterey, Calif., USA - Sunday, April 18, 1999 at 18:00:17 (ZULU) 


Slots for the 1st Annual Sniper's Paradise Tactical Rifle shoot are almost filled. We just got back from the Autauga Arms Comp in MS and handed out lots of info packets. I expect the remaining slots to be filled in the next 4 weeks. If you want in on one of the best comps and with a chance at an Accuracy International Rifle topped with US Optics scope (1st place) get your forms in now.

http://www.snipersparadise.com/sniper's.htm

Thomas <sniper@snipersparadise.com>
TX, USA - Sunday, April 18, 1999 at 19:14:00 (ZULU) 


What do snipers do about land mines? Rely on
good intelligence info to know which area not
to go into? Any statistics on the number of
sniper casualties caused by mines?
snooper
USA - Sunday, April 18, 1999 at 19:46:00 (ZULU) 
I'm interested in the Carlos Hatchcock II Competition.

Were is the Storm Mountain Training Center located?

thank you kindly
Tom kavanaugh <kavakota@rrnet.com>
fargo, nd, USA - Sunday, April 18, 1999 at 19:49:29 (ZULU) 


IMI 308 match brass
I remember some asking about this awhile back. I got a batch of this two years ago mainly for my M1A’s. As you may know M1A’s are very hard on brass. Extraction is very violent and they have extra headspace causing the brass to need trimming often. After about five reloading (the recommended max.) the cases start to rip apart just above the base. This can happen on the first reloading with Federal brass.
My IMI brass is holding up very well. I have one box that has bin loaded four times. Its just know in need of trimming. This is tough brass that does not flow much. Very little extractor marks. Over all the bass looks to be in good shape. Use military reloading data for this brass. It seems to hold up better than Lake City brass.
I just purchased a Remington LTR. I am using the IMI brass in it to work up a good load. The only prep I did was to trim to length, debur the flash hole, and uniform the primer pocket. I have gotten some sub ½ moa groups using 42 grains of varget and this brass. The only problem I have had is it is necessary to chamfer the case mouth before bullet seating, because of the thick brass. Special Redding dies would solve this problem better.
The price of this brass is excellent. There does not seem to be any drawbacks in the accuracy department. It holds up as good as Lake City brass. I am happy with my lot and would recommend it.

CJ

CJ <T18man@gateway.net>
new castle, de, USA - Sunday, April 18, 1999 at 20:01:27 (ZULU) 


Recall a post a few days ago about AR15 uppers? I have shot many different makes of the AR and have found good accuracy with the various "factory" uppers to be a lot like playing the lottery. That is, sometimes you get a shooter, sometimes you don't. Bad thing is, you never know which ticket you bought until you get it home.

Late last week I picked up a HB upper made by Bill Wylde, who is on this forum from time to time. Despite bad weather here [drizzle rain, cold, gusting winds] and despite the fact that I still have the stock Bushmaster trigger on the gun [which is much worse than the weather] I put about 100 rounds through it today at 100 yards. Simply put, it is the most accurate rifle I have ever shot. With off the shelf plinking ammo it was 5 shot ragged holes. With a trigger in this gun, a decent day, and some match ammo, I will report back at 100-500.

The rifle also has one of Bill's mounts on the flat-top, which actually allows you to put a scope where it needs to be, rather than where the factory apparently wants it to be. I was shooting a Mark IV M1 10x with a Premier Reticle's lit mil-dot reticle. The reticle is nice in low light.

If you are looking for an AR upper, I highly recommend Bill's equipment. Maybe I could send this gun out to Mike M for a review, or something? It will make you look at the AR in a whole new light.

Old Dog
Bruce <Bruce@mannlawfirm.com>
USA - Sunday, April 18, 1999 at 20:07:15 (ZULU) 


Tom, go to the Hot Links on the main page, and then under training, The Storm Mountain Training Center is listed. There are directions to SMTC on there page.

Matthew Marx
Matthew Marx <mam10@ra.msstate.edu>
MSU, MS, USA - Sunday, April 18, 1999 at 20:13:28 (ZULU) 


I was at a gun show today, and was looking at a Savage Tactical 110FP, with a 6-24x50 BSA target scope, and a harris benchrest bipod. Can anyone tell me anything about the BSA scopes? Quality, durability, etc..? The whole package was priced at $650. Does that sound like a good deal?

Sgt. J.F.McQuay
Scout Sniper, USMC
John <SNlPER8541@aol.com>
Camp Lejeune, NC, USA - Sunday, April 18, 1999 at 21:58:33 (ZULU) 


To Sarge, Gooch, Darrell, peteR and All: I just got done painting the Remington Barrelled action with a SS Douglas barrel and a Mc A-2 stock. The stock is just the standard A-2 without the any adjustable cheekpiece or LOP. The camo paints which I used turned out great. I first started out with a rust colored Rust-o-leum primer, removed all the oil and grease with some lacquer thinner and sprayed on the primer on the floorplate, barreled action, stock, rings and mounts. All were a separate painting project. I masked off the trigger and about 1/4 inch of the muzzle. After spraying the primer coat on, I proceeded to let it dry and after that got three cans of Rustoleum Camo paint. (O.D., Earth Brown, and Khaki.) Starting with the khaki color, just a light coat was necessary, and went on to the O.D., and then for shadow texture, a couple of light hits with the Earth brown. Along with the rust colored primer base, it came out fantastic. I am still reluctant to paint up the Leopold M3, and may just keep that a black but then again, maybe not.

The Rustoleum paints I purchased at Quality Farm and Fleet and worked very well.

I'm Looking forward to putting it all together later on this evening.

al
Al OStapowicz <aaostapowicz@nls.net>
Rembrandt with and A-2 in , Ohio, USA - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 00:22:25 (ZULU) 


Al O.
Oh YEAH. I can beat that.
I TIE-DYED my rifle!!!!!

Got an old 60's hippy & told him what colors I wanted.
Gave him my rifle, (unloaded, of course) and POW!!!!!!

CAMO-HAZE.

It's like, GROOVEY-man. FAR OUT!!!

Earth tones man. Earth tones.

Check you E-mail, Al.
D. West <westforce@juno.com>
House-setting & dog watching, in IL., USA - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 01:08:37 (ZULU) 


Al

PAINT THE SCOPE...PAINT THE SCOPE...PAINT THE SCOPE. DO IT!!! You can do it man!! Use the force.....
gooch <pte00791@mail.wvnet.edu>
USA - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 01:17:10 (ZULU) 


Hello,
Thanks for the great info on sniping!Looking at a 1903 springfield 3006,want info on useing this weapon as sniper rifle.loads-grain ball?
Thank you
Jack
Simms,John <springfield@twave.net>
USA - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 01:40:24 (ZULU) 
DON'T PAINT THE TURRETS. DON'T PAINT THE TURRETS. DON'T PAINT THE LENES. DON'T PAINT THE LENES..............
DW <samething>
sameplace, USA - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 01:43:18 (ZULU) 
A few months back, I tracked down the makers of the 'White Feather' ammo. I had bought two boxes of once fired brass head stamped 'Paw.'

To get to the point, the brass was IMI. The guy I talked to - and have since heard that he is no longer there - said to work up loads carefully as the brass was heavier than LAKE CITY.

He also stated that the head stamp would be changed to 'White Feather' at some point in the future, but that the brass would remain IMI.

Just thought you all might like to know, for those who didn't.

Larry
Larry <skporter@arn.net>
Boonies of the Texas Panhandle, Texas, USA - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 02:48:48 (ZULU) 


Hey guys, got my computer back up in a semi nature, still downloading some new drivers to stop some of my lock ups. I am now way behind in Duty Roster and will take a while to catch up.

Mike - Playing with the sling and will let you know shortly on it.

Pete - Working with the Saddle and will let you know as well.

Camo the rifle with paint and don't worry about how it looks! If it looks ratty it is about right. If it looks cool then it will become a grey blotch at range anyway! Burlap on the barrel alone will not do alot of zero damage. Burlap trapping the barrel to the forestock will destroy the zero. Watch your colors and go light first. It is esier to go darker later. Look at the area/terrain you are working in and then look "through" the vegetation. If you see light through the vegetation then go light for sure. The main thing is as Gooch stated, earth tones, earth tones, earth tones. The human eye and brain creativity causes some terrible colors to be created. Take a look at Forest Green and tell me where that dam forest is that is the model. Stay away from black, nothing in nature is black! And yes paint the scope paint the scope and NOT the lens nor turret!!!! Good call DW!!

Oh well have fun guys and hold hard!

Rick <RBowcher@aol.com>
Fayetteville, NC, USA - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 02:48:58 (ZULU) 


To All:

I am looking for information on Dolphin Products Inc.
Jose M. Janer <jmjaner@laplaza.org>
Taos, NM, USA - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 03:32:23 (ZULU) 


To All:

I am looking for information on Dolphin Products Inc. "PHROBIS" 10X42, 30MM, 1/4" High Turrets and AO on the Ocular that goes from 10 to 500 Meters. My 1993 700 PSS 24", came with this Scope mounted on Leupold MK 4s. I have tried to contact the company in Oceanside, CA. and have come up with a dead end. I would appreciate input from anyone that has heard of this Tactical Scope. This sucker is very repeatable and built like a Tank. Last week, I went to NRA Whitington Center to Chonograph some 175 MK 41.5 Gr. Varget, groups at 100 yds of .340, .405 and .575 were the norm at 2500 fps. This week I will be working some Long Range (1000 yd.) Varget loads and will keep you all posted.
The best thing is that since my discharge from the USMC and spending more than 12 years without any shooting, my skill has never waned. when your taught to do it the right way is like riding a bike, you never forget.

Semper Fi

J.M. Janer Sr, Ret., Taos, New Mexico
J.M. Janer Sr. <jmjaner@laplaza.org>
Taos, NM, USA - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 03:52:45 (ZULU) 


Howdy Gentlemen and Ladies,
Been awhile since i visted glad to be back!! First thing I am somewhat new to this longrange shooting game and learned a very vauable lesson over the past few months. Buy and use a good cleaning rod!!! I have a Dewy now with a jag, flannel patchs, copper solvent and hoppes and the cleanig is much faster and productive than with the "patch holder". I know that you "old hands" know this this for the rookies such as my self.
Now i have two questions. Could someone tell me how to disassamble the bolt of a Savage 110 or tell me where i can get that info.. Been shooting in a sandy area the past few times and i have grit betwwen the locking lug and gas baffle.
And what grain wgt. is ava. from Black Hills in the 300WinMag in the moly coat match round i was not able to find this info. on there web site. Thanks
Stagger 10-42
Stagger <Lmcpher104@aol.com>
Terre Haute, In, USA - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 04:09:54 (ZULU) 
Simms,John,
On the Springfield, I dont know what kind of set-up you are trying to build, but I'll tell you of my experiences, If you are trying to build on a 03 Springfield, the best way to go is just to mount a Unertl scope on it. You have to cut a hole in the handguard, and mill a flat on the handguard. to be able to slide the scope on and off. the front target mount scope base. The scope bases should be 7.2 inches apart to give 1/4 inch click adjustments. The bolt handle should also be altered to allow the haandle to clear the scope tube. the stock should be bedded to only touch the barrel at the area of the bayonet lug with 3 to 5 pounds up pressure in the 6.00 position. This makes a pretty good set-up as it allows you to adjust the eye relief to any position you want, and this is usually a problem putting any other kind of scope on a stock as short as the Springfield. Also the stock that you use should be a "C" pistol grip stock.
If you are trying to build a 03-A4 look-a-like. I would throw away the stamped triggerguard&floorplate and try to find a milled one instead. The stamped floorplate will not hold. Every time you try to tighten the front reciever screw, you will only succeed in pushing the floorplate deeper into the stock. You could use a M-84 scope in a Redfield base, or a Lyman Alaskan. Both are still pretty good scopes. The Weaver 330 was a piece of crap. A 4x Kolmorgen was also a good scope, but I doubt if you will ever find one.
As far as loads go, the same loads that are recommended for the M1 Garand usually work prety good in the Springfield. I also like the 190 grain Sierra's with IMR-4350 @ 2550 fps for a long range load.

Steve <nato@bright.net>
S.C.D.H, Ohio, USA - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 04:47:20 (ZULU) 


Hello all,
I'm an ex-member of my country special warfare command center, Intel/Army (an oxymoron?). I'm not a sniper by trade but an intel type. I have lurked on this very interesting site for about a few months now. As a so called third world, one aspect of our sniper task is also intel gathering (see and tell). Here is some interesting site you all might want to look at
http://www.deutscheoptik.com.
back to the bush now,
seril

seril
Bangkok, Thailand - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 07:08:49 (ZULU) 



>From some friends....

>Several vendors at Knob Creek told me they may not be able to get .308. There
>was no .45 there Saturday morning. Ammo vendors pallets were bare by 5:00
>Saturday and I was told more ammo was sold on Friday than had ever been sold
>during a three day show. I'm hearing similar stories from multiple sources.

************************************************

>For what it's worth, from an EXTREMELY reliable guy, a real establishment
>type, on a firearms-related discussion list. Folks had noticed an
>increasingly shallow supply of ammo, particularly in .45 and .223, and
>this was one of the responses.
>
>
>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>I had an interesting conversation with my local dealer today. He runs a
>medium size, full service gun and gun related only store. I told him
>about the reports that .223 and .45 were drying up in some parts of the
>country, according to this list.
>
>He said, "That ain't the half of it. It's all drying up and it has
>nothing to do with Y2K. It's war production." He says that he has
>talked to a half a dozen major wholesaliers and suppliers who all are
>telling him that the ammo on their shelves is all there is for the
>domestic market in the foreseeable future. The US government has
>ordered over a 100 million rounds of small arms ammo on an emergency
>basis and Federal, Remington and Winchester have shut down all other
>production. Furthermore, the news, as he got it, was that this is the
>first of possibly several orders. He also said that the powder makers
>are diverting the production away from cannister powders and selling all
>their current production to fulfill government contracts. Making things
>even worse, he says that Selliers and Bellot have dedicated their entire
>production facilities to the Yugoslavians. PMC is supposed to be
>totally occupied with regional governmental contracts.
>
>I don't know if any of this is true, but I do know the dealer. He never
>intends to keep anything in inventory that he doesn't believe he can
>turn over pretty fast. He has placed his normal order for the hunting
>seasons (bird and deer) in the hopes that he will have something to sell
>come September.
>
>Take this for what you think its worth. Anybody hear anything like
>this?
>
>
some friends <straight_shooter@hotmail.com>
USA - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 09:32:37 (ZULU) 


To J.M. Janer Sr.

Torsten and I have the same scope on our rifles. They do work fine and are very repeatable indeed. Check the reticle though.... The dots are not 1 but 2 mils apart! If you don't notice that, you'll be in serious sh*t when you try to range anything. Watch for puffs of dust, at twice the range to the target....

Contact me on the email adress below. We'll have a nice chat about these scopes.

To All:
I'm puzzled. Here's what's bugging me:
I use Lapua 167gr Scenar BTHP-M bullets in my Savage 110 FLP. I moly them and it works. The barrel reamins cold during firing (I compared it with several uncoated rounds and it does make quite a difference) and there's no measurable accuracy loss during the firing sequence, not even after firing 50 rounds without cleaning.
When I clean the barrel, something funny strikes me. Eventhough the moly SEEMS to be doing it's thing while shooting, I can remove LOADS of copper from the barrel afterwards.... It really strikes me.
Last Sunday I cleaned my rifle and used both Shooters Choice copper remover and Hoppes Benchrest te get the copper out. I cleaned it until the saturated patches came out the way they went in. Then, when I checked at the muzzle, there still was VISIBLE copper fouling. This is driving me NUTS! Using copper or nylon brushes made no difference! I strongly believe in using different solvents alternately during one cleaning session and up until now, I had success with it. This problem, however, is beyond me....

1. Why is there so much copper fouling, eventhough I moly my bullets and the moly seems to be working.

2. Why can't I remove the stuff from my barrel? What am I doing wrong (apart from using a Savage, hee hee hee!)

Thanks for your input!

Stefan
Stefan <stefan@sniperhide.com>
Someplace, Somewhere, The Netherlands - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 12:37:27 (ZULU) 


PAINT! PAINT! PAINT!

Ok you guys I cant believe that you have talked me into taking a gun I just put $1300 dollars in and and painting it! This is a good looking REM. 700 VSSF will this paint stick to stainless steel? or do I have to get a certain kind? Also will the paint chip off easy? Help me out here this is my new baby.

Thanks, Todd
Todd <terrellcl@hotmail.com>
IN, USA - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 12:58:27 (ZULU) 


D.West,
I think both Bill R. and myself have mentioned these before but the "Snake Skins" work quite well at cammoing your main rifle with out painting it and if you don't like any of the camo patterns turn it wronge side out and its a dead grass tan color. When you put it on it does not interfer with the accuracy of the rifle because all that touchs the barrel is a lite cloth and maybe a rubberband or two. Just a thought.

Jim Craig,
Welcome back you old bandit!! I was wondering what happened to you. Hows things in Wyoming?? Are you going to be at the match again this year?? If so we'll have to have cold one togeather and catch up.

Todd,
The 700VSSF should do just as well as the PSS and sometimes better. I have shot several and have a good friend who has one and it is capable of under half minute MOA as far as the scope I guess I cant say since I am not familiar with it.
Pat <mrbullet@hotmail.com>
USA - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 13:17:15 (ZULU) 


Savage bolt disassembly

First remove the nut (as Scott calls it) at the back of the bolt. There may be some spring tension on it so be careful. Remove the bolt handle. Do not remove the bolt handle camming block. There are those little spring-loaded balls in there. Next align the take down notch in the firing pin spring so you can pull out the release pin. Pull the firing pin/spring out of bolt. Know you can push out the cross pin that holds the lugs on. Clean her up and put her back together. Make sure you cock the bolt before you put the nut back on.

CJ

CJ <T18man@gateway.net>
NEW CASTLE, DE, USA - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 14:05:41 (ZULU) 


I am considering buying a USMC M40 from Texas Brigade Armory. Has anyone had any experiences with them? I will be using it in competitions and every once in a while I will take it hunting. I want to keep it under 15 lbs. perfferably under 14 lbs.

Texas Brigade says they put a moly coating in the barrel so you don't have to coat your bullets. Any comments on this? They garentee 1/4 inch groups. It's the lowest I've seen.

I have heard that the lead from the bullet to the riflings are longer than needed. Is the lead in the USMC M40 shorter?
I'm not sure if I want an M40 A1, A2, or A3.
What are the advantages and disadvantages.
Nick <hkmp5_2222@yahoo.com>
salt lake, utah, USA - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 15:34:43 (ZULU) 


Mike M or Scott:

What is the width of your Quick-Cuff sling 1 1/4, 1 1/2 ?
Can you use Quick release swivels or is something else required?

Want to order one, need the info.. Thanks...
Tony Y
Iselin, NJ, USA - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 16:06:57 (ZULU) 


To All 3.5x10LR users,
HELP...I have a unique problem, I have two 3.5x10LRs and I can't seem to get a clear picture of a paster at 100yards with out messing up the parallax. In other words when I get the paster to clear up using the focus knob I find the cross hairs tend to start to "Move" with my eye and when I move the focus to stop the crosshairs from moving the paster is blurry. I don't have this problem with any of my other leupolds any ideas?? When I recieved the first 3.5x10LR last year it done this and then when I fired a round I would have to readjust the focus after each round with it always clearing up in a different spot. I sent it back to Leupold and that seems to have cleared up but I have the same problem with the focus at 100yds with it too. I would appreciate any ideas or imput from anyone, esp you guys who have them, if you have experienced this with yours or am I just going blind!! I know my eyes have changed and I require glasses for reading but not for anything else any ideas???
Pat <mrbullet@hotmail.com>
USA - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 16:12:16 (ZULU) 
Pat, the problem you speak of can be caused by many different things. The most common is your eyes. Have them checked. Scope placement and height. Close your eyes, obtain a natural stock weld and open your eyes. If you dont see a complete picture, you are compensating and straining your neck. This can limit the blood flow and cause a blurry picture. Try what I mentioned and let me know how it worked. I had the same problem with a scope I had mounted to low(of all things) and I would have focuse problems until I moved it up a little. Mike
Mike M. <DMMDNLN@AOL.COM>
Calif, USA - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 16:52:02 (ZULU) 
Mike,
Interesting thought, but thats exactly how I do set my eye relief. I have a long neck so I never have any trouble with straining it. I do have a slightly stiff one though(NECK) I have three disc's fused to geather and prone can be a bear once in a while but bench shooting has never been a problem. I don't seem to have the problem with the 4.5x14 and this is what has me thinking I may have a scope problem. Then again I may have and eye problem too because I don't have any problem at long range and seem to shoot a lot better at long range. I am almost sure this is why my 100yard groups are suffering is because of my crosshairs following my eye movement.
Pat <mrbullet@hotmail.com>
USA - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 19:12:49 (ZULU) 
Guys I need some help I have a Kahles zf84 scope mil. model. I am looking for a instruction booklet on this scope and also an adress or phone number as to where I might be able to get one of the small screws that fits in the top of the elevation turret.

This may not be the place to say this but I JUST HAFTA. I have gotten a lot of help from the fellas here,and the reads just great. But the shortrange shotgunning stuff has got to stop.
We all have erred
hopefully we make changes for the better

T50 cmon back son

Boys if we can"t get the big gripes off face to face don"t do it here

This canuck is going to take a breath now. the doggone ice is startin ta melt WHERES DA BOAT pokey
Pokey <scottmt@fort-frances.lakeheadu.ca>
USA - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 19:31:17 (ZULU) 


Ralph H:
I responded to your question in the Events Section but did not see my response get posted so here goes. Send me an e-mail and I will send a Long Range and High Power Schedule for Washington, Oregon and British Columbia. You can shoot a match both days day of every weekend from now until October just in Washington. Several clubs in the Seattle area have organized weekday Highpower (DCM) and Longrange Rifle practices that are very well organized and open to any classified shooters.

James Hicks <hicks@zso.dec.com>
Seattle, WA, USA - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 20:11:17 (ZULU) 


Stefan: I'm by no means an expert on this topic but I'll try to help the best I can.

First of all,are you sure what you are seeing on your patches is actually copper and not the moly coating being removed from the barrel?

I had a similar situation with a Remington 700 that I own.I kept putting patch after patch and brushing the bore before I realized that what I was seeing was moly.The moly I'm using has a colour not unlike what you might see from copper.Sometimes distinguishing the 2 elements can be somewhat tough to do.

This is a realatively easy thing to check for.STOP using the moly and see if this changes the amount of bluish-green colour on your cleaning patches.If things improve,my best guess is that you are in fact removing more moly than copper out of your barrel.

Now I'm realy gonna go out on a limb here.Is this a new gun?If so,have you properly broken in the barrel with non-coated bullets before using the moly?If not,perhaps you are seeing actual copper at the muzzle because you haven't cleaned enough moly out yet to get to the actual copper?

Perhaps this is the cause?

Hope this helps.Some of the more experienced guys out there might be able to help more.

Jeff Babineau <j.babineau@ns.sympatico.ca>
Truro, N.S., Canada - Monday, April 19, 1999 at 22:40:12 (ZULU) 


I mentioned this sometime back for those who don't want to paint their "beautiful" rifles. Use something like 3M's 77 adhesive and spray barrel, next use some of the "Fuzzies" from making your ghillie suit and sprinkle on barrel, ALL OVER/Around the barrel. Works great and is easy to Adapt to whatever terrain your in. Yep, it wears off, but so does paint and this breaks up outline !!

OUT HERE !!
Will <willadams@mindspring.com>
Not far from Ft Benning, USA - Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 01:04:57 (ZULU) 


Whoa! If I'm not mistaken,I think we've lost a few postings here tonight.That's if my browser isn't playing tricks on me again.
Jeff Babineau <j.babineau@ns.sympatico.ca>
Truro, N.S., Canada - Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 02:23:56 (ZULU) 
OK someone resently asked for the address and phone number to Hoplite in Kentucky. I can't find the response so now I'm asking for the same information.
Thanks Sarge

Sarge <garryrn@dfn.com>
Area 51, NM, USA - Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 03:00:33 (ZULU) 


Sarge & Co.

Hoplite, Inc.
P.O. Box 6599
Shepherdstown, KY
40165
502-955-5014 8am-5pm est
502-957-6540 5pm-8pm est

Will, A Most Excellant idea on rifle camo!

Chao!

peteR
peteR <PNGREIFF@AOL.COM>
bIG-cITY, bY-gAWD, USA - Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 03:09:14 (ZULU) 


Hey guys..
For any of you looking for the addy/number for Hoplite Inc. outta Kentucky, here is one.
I'm not sure it's the RIGHT one, but it fits..

Hoplite Inc.
3402 Burkland BLVD
Sheperdsville, KY 40165-8942

Number 502-955-5014

In my effort to contribute, I hope this helps.

Bruce H. <citizen__kane@hotmail.com>
Rightherein, Oklahoma, USA - Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 03:15:11 (ZULU) 


All,
Anyone know anything about winchester supreme "match"
in a black box? I have an opportunity to source some ex-US Navy
rounds but I would like to know if this is as good as Ferderal
match grade ammo.
cheap shot
- Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 03:46:46 (ZULU) 
I've got a NIB Rem. 700 VS/SF in .308. The back of the right front bolt lug has worn through the bluing more than the back of the left front bolt lug. This suggests to me that the right lug makes more contact with the receiver than the left lug. Also, the right lug makes a high-pitched screeching sound against the receiver when the bolt is closed and the lug locks.
Although the bolt surface has been nicely jeweled (engine-turned, whatever you want to call it), the jewelling is much more superficial than the very uniform annular grooves around the circumference of the bolt that were formed when the bolt was turned down. These machining marks tend to rub slightly on the receiver when the bolt is cycled.
I have seen various references to hand lapping a bolt and am wondering if that would be the thing to do to my bolt, both to make the lugs fit more smoothly and evenly and to get more of a smooth Sako-like operation from the bolt. The problem is I don't know anything about bolt lapping.
I'm not sure about what lapping compound to use. The Brownell's catalog seems to suggest aluminum oxide for soft metals and silicon carbide for steel (apparently the silicon carbide tends to embed itself in softer metals). Supposedly, the silicon carbide will break down into smaller abrasive particles as the lapping proceeds, yielding a smoother finish than the aluminum oxide. I also don't know what grit to use.
I bought some CTA valve lapping compound in back-to-back cans of coarse and fine grits. It appears to be silicon carbide in a clear oil (or maybe silicone oil) base. The coarse grit is really coarse, maybe 120 grit. The fine grit seems closer to 400 or 600.
Is this the right stuff to use? If so, what should I do with it? Do I just smear it all over the bolt, work the bolt back and forth for a while, then wash the stuff off using solvent?
I am also wondering if this will affect other things, like headspacing, to any substantial degree. Also, do I need to worry about keeping the bolt coaxial with the bore? Maybe this is all microscopic and doesn't matter, but I wonder how careful I need to be in keeping the bolt face perfectly parallel to the bore, for example to make sure fire-formed cases seat perfectly against the bolt face.
By the way, do I need to be concerned about galling of the stainless steel by the abrasive? What steps should I take to prevent this from occurring?
Any comments to help me smooth my bolt would be greatly appreciated.
Please don't let me wreck this fine rifle.
By the way, if you know where I can get a 65 inch-pound preset torque wrench to use on the allen head screws of the H-S Precision aluminum pillar bedding, please let me know. Thanks.
operator223 <operator223@hotmail.com>
USA - Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 04:49:07 (ZULU) 
I realize this is way off and I'll field any mail I get for it but I dont know of any where else where people might know.
I'm looking for the words to the poem Fiddler's Green, the one about the Cav Soldier " So put you pistol to your head and go to Fiddler's Green"
Its for a lit. class report I need to do

Thanks AJ

Anthony Rhoda <aguidor@yahoo.com>
N.O., LA, USA - Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 05:53:43 (ZULU) 


Stagger,
A customised Savage covered in The Varmit Hunter had the Belville washer moved to between the gas baffel and the locking lugs. This would keep dirt from collecting and the grease on the lugs from being wiped off.

Operator 223,
You could weigh you rifle and make an Allen wrench with a long enough handle to to apply 65 in/lbs with the Allen wrench on one finger and the weight of the rifle providing the force. A machinest or their handbook will provide how to make the calculation. This is how the wrenches are made to install actions in .22 rf target rifles.

Had big enough ears to get the nickname.

Radar
Radar 90 OMMS <R.va@worldnet.att.net>
Micnopy Beach, Fl, USA - Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 06:57:24 (ZULU) 


Torque wrench, Pre-set, 65 in/lbs, 1 each - Leupold sells one. Looks like the same one that comes with an M24.
gooch <pte00791@mail.wvnet.edu>
USA - Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 12:30:58 (ZULU) 
I am looking for a scheduel for the L.A.gunshow in Pamona.Any information would be greatly appreciated.
steve moss <smoss@bolthouse.com>
Bakersfield, Ca, USA - Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 13:49:44 (ZULU) 

This is the company that makes the:

Wrench,Torque, Pre-set, 65 in/lbs, 1 each

http://www.seekonk.com/torthdle.htm

"Ende"
 

Torsten <lasercon@dialup.globe.de>
Germany - Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 14:29:32 (ZULU) 


Just got off the phone from talking with a Winchester ammo, dealer- rep. According to her, Winchester has not started any emergency tool-up for military ammo. Their sales on regular .223 as well as .22rf have been going crazy as of late, and they are back-ordered on primers. She said she hoped people were shooting more and not just hoarding for Y2K or whatever. Will check with my salesman at Simmons and see what he has to say.
Doc <docs@fidnet.com>
The Ozark boonies, MO, USA - Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 16:01:53 (ZULU) 
On the ammo shortage/military buy up deal. I don't know if you guys realize how much the small amrms training budget has been cut over the last couple of years. The wiz kids were trying to replace live fire with simulation and spent more money on FATS machines and other toys and less on ammo and range development. I'll bet if there is any big ammo buy its just a knee jerk, panic reaction, try to get the war reserves back up to par. I HEARD that we were getting into war stocks to conduct training because of the budget slashing.

What the heck, we needed to rotate stock anyway.

Any body got any information re: the "volunteers" going to Kosovo. Email me off-line if you do.
gooch <pte00791@mail.wvnet.edu>
USA - Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 16:33:01 (ZULU) 


My salesman at Simmons tells me that PMC forgot to file something or filed it wrong and Slick Willie has them shut down. They are a major supplier of .223, .45acp, etc., at cheap prices, so the distributors are now selling a lot more of the other brands.
Doc <docs@fidnet.com>
The Ozark boonies, MO, USA - Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 16:45:50 (ZULU) 
I got my Wrench, Torque, Pre-set, 65 in/lbs, 1 each from Brownells several months ago. (And in another 6 weeks or so I'm supposed to finally get the rifle I bought it for!)

Dave <dave@broadsword.com>
San Jose, CA, USA - Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 17:19:35 (ZULU) 


Jeff A,
Would you e.mail me off line with what your getting for groups with the 142s. I cant get mine to group at 100yds. I had a chance to shoot against my old 300 Win Mag and with both rifles having the 3.5x10LR for scopes and both dead on at 100yds the 260 with the 142s has the exact same trajectory out to 500yds and one MOA less wind drift than the 300 with a 190MKs. At 600yds I use one MOA less dial for elevation than the 300 and still less wind drift. I would never have believed it was possible but it is!! At 500yds you could have taken a ruler and drew a straight line right through the center of our shots mine was to the left of the paster his to the right. We each fired two rounds at each range and used the same dials for wind and elevation. Now I don't miss my old 300 so much!! I shot yesterday in the wind and using my 308 to compare it to the 260 I have to use about twice as much windage on the 308 as I do the 260. I find now that I can judge the wind much better than I used to(I now know why..HA)
Pat <mrbullet@hotmail.com>
USA - Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 19:29:24 (ZULU) 
Does anyone have any experience with the Walker Game ear lineup? http://www.walkersgameear.com/ I currently use Peltor Tac 7 muffs but they get in the way when shooting my rifles. I'd like to find something that works as well as the Peltors, yet are small and allow a good cheek weld with my long guns.
Rodmann
USA - Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 19:33:35 (ZULU) 
I asked about the TBA rifles. Need any comments anyone has,
good and bad. What would be a better by?

I want a good durable sniper rifle that is garenteed to shoot 1/2 inch groups at 100 yds. Has anyone had any experience with rifles shooting under 1/2 inch regularly, if so with rifles.
Nick <hkmp5_2222@yahoo>
salt lake, utah, USA - Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 20:32:12 (ZULU) 


Hey, Any slots available for the Carlos Match in Oct? BTW: what's the deal on "volunteers" for Kosovo. Thanks
Trigger (Dean)
USA - Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 20:46:44 (ZULU) 
I am back online. Missed a lot of stuff it seems.

To Darryl and all the others holding the spray can with their eyes squeezed shut, dreading that first moment...reach down an grab a pair! Just DO it. You screw up it doesn't mean squat. You just repaint till it looks right.

For those of you never intending on taking a tactical class, don't bother painting. If the rifle only sees range use and varmint hunting, you needn't worry about guys like Gooch or Rick picking you out of the fuzz.

War Reserve: I wouldn't sweat this one too much. Recall the primer dry up during the gulf war? This too shall pass.

I finally finished the IOR review. Not bad glass. I'd like to compare them along side a Steiner. Can anyone loan one out? ;-)
For you old goats who like the ancient stuff, I am just finishing up a review of several WWII era sniper scopes. Why am I telling you all this? Well, someone above seemed to associate the site with the Roster alone. I know I have said it before, but guys and gals, this is only a small part of the site. I know we have been slow in getting new stuff out lately but we've all been busy and a little tired. in the works: three seperate HS stocks, two McMillon stocks, a certain sling some of us have come to know and love, and a few other little ditties.

If my poor boy leaves me alone for an hour or 10, I may actually get to them all. NOW I have to go play ball!

Scott <xring@voicenet.com>
USA - Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 21:37:48 (ZULU) 


Nick: The conventional wisdom here is that TBA rifles are quite good, but not the best. The Chandler rifles have a loftier reputation (and price)- IF they'll sell you one, and if you're willing to wait for one. Gooch and others on the site have recommended Andy Weber's ATI rifles.

If my TBA rifle is complete when Mike says it will be, delivery time wil have run almost exactly one year. I can't comment on it much beyond that until I get my hands on the thing...

- On an unrelated note, those of us who keep hearing so much about Mike M.'s WunderSling are still eagerly waiting to see one of the promised reviews... and a picture... and maybe some details like the color and width... None of the current sellers seem to provide this info. (Hey Scott, does the 4-6 weeks delivery time from the PX apply to these slings???)

Dave <dave@broadsword.com>
San Jose, CA, USA - Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 21:46:41 (ZULU) 


Heh heh, I typed up that last message (nagging about the sling review) before Scott's appeared...
Dave <dave@broadsword.com>
San Jose, CA, USA - Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 21:51:25 (ZULU) 
Operator:

Normally the bluing rubbing off one lug more than the other would indicate that the lugs would need to be lapped to the receiver, but I don't like to hear that it makes a screeching sound when closing the bolt. I'd almost be tempted to call Remington on that, or take it to a gunsmith and have him give 'er a look-see. Maybe when they soldered her on, she was a little crocked. Anyway, if it is in fact the case that lapping the lugs is needed, if I were you, I'd break that barrel off the action beforehand. And it would be nice if you had a worn out remington bbl, you could put it in the vise and screw your action on it and lap without gettin' lapping compound in yer good chamber. If not, just throw the action in the vise, use soft jaws!! What you will need is lapping compound, 100 is way too coarse, galls it up more than anything, the finer ya go the better the results, finish. Also you would want some Dykem or some other type of metal dye. And time you will need. Take the guts out of the action, just need bolt and receiver. Ya don't want lapping compound in the trigger assembly, wreaks havoc!!! Throw some dye on the lugs, let 'er dry, then put some lapping compound on 'em. Work the bolt up and down, over and over, again and again, until you see the dye breaking up. Make a note of the disparity between lugs. throw some more compound on and lap away. Once every so often, wipe the compound off and throw some more dykem on. Lap and lap and lap and lap until the full contact point of each side of the lug is equal. When you think it is, check this by once again dyeing the lugs, and give 'er about 2 or 3 strokes. if the dye is gone you're doin good.
Now, headspace may or may not be affected, depends on how much you had to lap, if it took a week then it was too long and you have no lugs but very strong forearms!! But, in any case, I would have headspace rechecked. If you're over max, you'll probably have to cut the barrel back, face the receiver, or have the recoil lug surface ground (gunsmith needed for these applications). But I doubt you would lap a bolt and go over max unless somethin was awry in your bolt to begin with. Get 'er put back together and fire away, you just accurized yer action. Well, almost, you could get your bolt face lapped too.

I don't like using chamber plugs to lap the action. My theory is don't believe the lapping compound is flushed out unless you can see that it is.

later
 
 

JR <mrpink@rapidnet.com>
rapid city, SD, USA - Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 23:36:53 (ZULU) 


Rings are lapped, scopes are mounted so it's off to the big city of Cherry Grove, SC tomorrow to fish and get the cramps out of my arms.

You younguns don't tear too much up while i'm gone!
If you make it down to the beach, look me up at Duck's Too. I'll be the ugly one with the Snipercountry hat and t-shirt and a pitcher of Long Island Ice Tea, no cup.

Say a prayer for the kids in Littleton.

Bolt out
Bolt <mbolt34547@aol.com>
USA - Wednesday, April 21, 1999 at 00:23:51 (ZULU) 


Guys, does anyone has any advice on ways of defeating or evading night vision in some way?
Thanks in advance.
red
ohio, USA - Wednesday, April 21, 1999 at 00:42:41 (ZULU) 
If anyone knows of a dealer that has good .308 brass in stock, please email me. Also need 300 win mag brass. Btw, dealt with Jeff Bartlett of Bartlett Reloading, in Owensboro...what a nice guy to do business with.

Thanks,

Old Dog
 

Bruce <Bruce@mannlawfirm.com>
USA - Wednesday, April 21, 1999 at 01:04:29 (ZULU) 


Red,

During my law enforcement career, we did extensive training with IR and low light equipment.
Its not very hard to overcome even the latest generation equipment.
Because of the limited contrasts with night vision equipment, camo patterns are much less of an issue, however you still dont want to silouette yourself.
Some things to consider (in my experiences only)
A flat finish will always attenuate a reflection better than a glossy finish. This will include wet/sweaty skin as well.
Never use starch on anything you will wear in the field. It makes even the darkest/flatest looking colors glow like a ghost.
don't launder your clothing in any kind of soap, but instead plain tap water. some soaps are like starch.
Make sure that any paint or clothing used is not phosphorgenic. ie, wont "glow" under broad band UV (latest generation low light). A good way to test this is with a black light AND a tanning booth.
IR as well as late generation low light can make your eyes glow, so they should be concealed as well as the lenses on your scope.
As a rule of thumb make it dark and dull and you will be ok.
Oh yeah.. tritium glow and the backlighting on these new watches look like a bomb going off in some of the new scopes, so probably wouldnt want to use them, however standard LED backlights arent so bad. I don't know why, its just my observation.

Thats all I can think of for now, but Im sure I'll remember more..
anyway, hope this helps.

BruceH
 

BruceH <citizen__kane@hotmail.com>
Smackdab, in the middle, USA - Wednesday, April 21, 1999 at 02:10:26 (ZULU) 


I am looking to connect with a few brothers in the "line" who have been there and know what "is." I'm looking forward to communicating with a few who are interessted in high power shooting and in the development of a cadre who will be willing to meet for get togethers
in the future,particularly sniper, or long range shooter functions around the U.S. Most of my experience has been in "Counter-Sniper OPS" on the Czech. Border. OPS were conducted in/within Cav. or Grp. 10 S.F., units. Do you have any interesting stories to tell? Please Ident. Unit. Per COMSEC SOP.

Drop me an E-Mail
Rikano G. Radonich <Radonich@phnx.uswest.net>
Tempe, AZ., USA - Wednesday, April 21, 1999 at 05:03:16 (ZULU) 


Stock painting.

Benefit vs ?

By painting a ripple finished tactical stock, the rippled effect is lost. The finish then becomes smooth if pretty looking.
Anyone seen such a painted stock in modern night vision? I havent
and I would like to know if there are any tactical disadvantages.
Matt Black
- Wednesday, April 21, 1999 at 08:11:28 (ZULU) 


James Hicks:

Thanks for the post. I'm glad I perused this evening or I'd have missed it for sure. Check your e-mail.

Ralf
ralf h <sledghamr@aol.com>
Sea, WA, USA - Wednesday, April 21, 1999 at 08:21:02 (ZULU) 


Rodman,

I purchased a pair of Sonic II hearing protectors from Precision Laboratories. Here is their website:

http://www.precisionweb.com/

They have an area devoted to their shooters plugs. The cost of the Sonic II last year was $64.

Matt
Matt <Matfie2@aol.com>
TX, USA - Wednesday, April 21, 1999 at 09:43:59 (ZULU) 


Between all the yammering of pro and anti gunners and the news on CNN and MSNBC, the bottom line is - GOD Bless the kids in Littleton Colorado.

al
Al Ostapowicz <aaostapowicz@nls.net>
Greatly Saddened here in , Ohio, USA - Wednesday, April 21, 1999 at 11:15:30 (ZULU) 


BruceH, thanks for reply. I never worked with night vision equipment so any info helps. Don't wanna be out there lit up like a Christmas tree.

red
Ohio, USA - Wednesday, April 21, 1999 at 12:19:14 (ZULU) 


Been lurking the site....
for a few months now. Just wanted to say how much I like it. I have learned more here than anyother site that deals with long range.
Marius, Scott and Garry... sincere thanks for the work.

Al O. your on target with the kids in CO. It's about them not gun control.

out.
Buk <bukowski@bellsouth.net>
InTheCitySwamps,, LA, USA - Wednesday, April 21, 1999 at 12:19:49 (ZULU) 


Slings: Guys they come in 1 1/4" Black, Camo,OD and 1 1/2" in Black or Brown. Standard is set up for Rem 700 with swivels already attached. I can make them for any rifle. 1 1/4 is best for AR types. I like 1 1/2 for bolt guns. It will fit in you 1 1/4" swivels. Scott is working on review for SC. Gooch is working on review for Tactical Shooter.

Remington 700 grinding sounds when you close the bolt: I had the same problem and found that the front trigger guard screw was to long. Back it out two turns and see if the noise goes away. If so shorten the screw slightly until it torques down and no noise. Mike
Mike M. <DMMDNLN@AOL.COM>
Calif, USA - Wednesday, April 21, 1999 at 14:41:41 (ZULU) 


ALL:
Take time to make your voice heard. The media is going to have a feeding frenzy at our expense. Vote in all the online polls. Look at CNN, CBS, NBC, CNBC, your home town paper and news, websites etc. Take time to write newspapers - congress etc. This is exactly the kind of thing that ended up having our Austrailian buddies shooting spitballs at each other! My God what a tragedy, but the loss of more Freedom will be worse. Don't wait for it to get bad - Act Now!
James Hicks <hicks@zso.dec.com>
Seattle, WA, USA - Wednesday, April 21, 1999 at 14:46:28 (ZULU) 
just got my YP 1000 Bushnell Laser Rangefinder today !

I´ll play with it and will give you guy´s a review within the next couple of days.

You can range Objects behind you in the rear view mirror !

"Ende"
Torsten <lasercon@dialup.globe.de>
Germany - Wednesday, April 21, 1999 at 15:08:21 (ZULU) 


To All,
It appears that some of the Roster is missing or is it just my computer?? I had made a post earlier on the 3.5x10LR. I seem to be having problems with mine in that I can't get a clear picture at 100 yards with out putting a "Parallax" into the scope. In other words if I focus so the paster is clear the cross hairs will tend to follow my eye movement and if I focus so the cross hair stays locked on target the paster is blurry, any one else having a this problem and if not any one have any ideas??? I thought it might be my eyes but I don't seem to have the same problem with my 4.5x14 only the 3.5x10LRs.

Mike M,
Good call on the front screw, I have had the same problem but forgot about it.

Torsten,
Only you would be ranging objects in the mirror(HA) I will be very interested in your results so let us know. I would also like to know how small of an object you can range and at what distance (Like a 12" steel plate) What was the cost on the 1000??
Pat <mrbullet@hotmail.com>
USA - Wednesday, April 21, 1999 at 16:35:31 (ZULU) 


HELLLLLP.
Fellas I need an address or a mirical. I'm looking for a instuction booklet for a Kahles zf84 10x42 mil. model scope. This is the one with the 3 screws in the top of the windage and elevation turrets. Also what bullet velocity and bullet weight is this scope cammed for.
Praying for all those young folks.

Just a canuck waiting for the ice to melt.
Pokey <scottmt@fort-frances.lakeheadu.ca>
USA - Wednesday, April 21, 1999 at 16:44:11 (ZULU) 


Torsten: Now you've done it. All the YP1000s that go out from here on will undoubtedly have large lawyer-mandated labels saying "WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO OPERATE THE YP1000 IN YOUR REAR-VIEW MIRROR WHILE CRUISING DOWN THE AUTOBAHN AT 200KPH."

Looking forward to the review. :)

Mike M.: Thanks for the info.

Dave <dave@broadsword.com>
San Jose, CA, USA - Wednesday, April 21, 1999 at 17:19:46 (ZULU) 


Pokey,
Since kahles is a Swarovski company you might try :
Swarovski Optik North America Ltd.
2 Slater Road
Cranston, RI 02920
(401) 734-1800
e-mail: sona@swarovskioptik.com
Doc <docs@fidnet.com>
The Ozark boonies, MO, USA - Wednesday, April 21, 1999 at 17:50:13 (ZULU) 
Has the stock maker TECHNOCARBON DYNAMICS gone away or moved to a new
state? I have a Savage rifle I wish to restock.Can anybody tell me
where they are at this time.I thank all of you that E-mailed me for
the sniper simulator.With the current events that are in the news I
suggest that every person that comes to this web sight go check out
this web sight www.rkba.org/antis/hci-master and then find some way
to organize against this BBIIGG time threat.
thank you all again
Scott Hannah

Scott Hannah <Hannah@slip.net>
Los Gatos, ca, USA - Wednesday, April 21, 1999 at 19:47:04 (ZULU) 


Pat:I've noticed the same thing.The missing posts are from Monday night.Your post,mine,Stefan's and a few others' are missing from the Roster.I'm not sure why.
Jeff Babineau <j.babineau@ns.sympatico.ca>
Truro, N.S., Canada - Wednesday, April 21, 1999 at 21:09:07 (ZULU) 
Hey guys just a note. Armament Technology has an AT1-M24 ready for delivery and no buyer. A police dept cancelled an order and he has this one ready to go. Contact their American Distributer at (304)446-5526 (Storm Mountain) for more info. Price is $4,100. (Marius, I know this is supposed to go somewhere else on SC but I wanted to make sure everyone got the word.)

Screeching Remington bolts. Ditto on what Pat said about the front action screw plus make sure you are using grease not oil on the lugs and in the cocking notch. Just a dab will do ya!

Pat on your parralax problem. If your reticle is not focused you can still have parralax when the target is sharp. Remedy is to focus your target sharply and if you still pick up reticle movement, play with your reticle focus and see if it won't go away. Should only have to do this once just to fine tune the reticle. I know its not what the manuals say to do but I think it might help you out.

Out of here
gooch <pte00791@mail.wvnet.edu>
USA - Wednesday, April 21, 1999 at 21:31:48 (ZULU) 


Guys:

To all the Law-Enforcement slotted Snipers, Military Snipers and Instructors. Just to let you know what you are missing by not attending Sniper Week, sponsored by Snipercraft.

Today was the first day and there were speakers on maintaining your preformance by the proper hydration methods, a Dr. who discussed medical training for the Sniper, Sam Chestnut from the Oklahoma Police Department, and Lt. Col. Dave Crossman author of On Killing.

There were displays by Southern Precision Armory, Premier Reticle, Remington, Accuracy International, and SRT.

Day two is tomorrow with many other speakers to present. Contact Snipercraft through the links on this site for information about next year. You all should be here.

Bruce G. Buell, NCDS
Senior Instructor, IDRC
Bruce Buell <buellncds@mindspring.com>
Miami, FL, USA - Wednesday, April 21, 1999 at 21:57:11 (ZULU) 


I was ondering if anyone here had worked with the IOR-Valdada Tactical scopes as sold by Brownells.I am about to take delivery of a Remington 700 Police and I am presently planning to put a Vari-X II 4-12 AO that I had Premier put a mildot reticle in and target knobs on. This should be a competant enough scope but its a bit dark under low light conditions, so I am already looking ahead to a optical upgrade. I already own a set of 10x50 binocs and a 8x56 hunting scope by IOR and am quite pleased with them. I also used to own a set of the 7x40 binocs but they were stolen. I desperatly wish I had them back.

PS: I am also using the IOR QD rings on the 700 Police. No live-fire testing yet but they seem to have potential and are reasonably priced.
 

Thanks :

-Tom
Tom Simpson <bullet45@usit.net>
Columbia, SC, USA - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 00:07:12 (ZULU) 


none yet thank you.
steena <steena@cpmurray.army.mil>
Cheney , WA, USA - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 00:17:57 (ZULU) 
Gooch,

How is that ATI M24 equipped? Any accessories, such as case and tools?
I have read that they are very good rifles. A friend of mine has a "real" M24 made by Rem for the Israelis, it came in a case with all tools and accessories, including a complete spare parts kit. It is topped by a Leupold M3 Scope. It cost him over 5000 bucks. He let me shoot it some, it is nice. He turned down 10 grand for it.(Not from me.)
I was thinking about an M40A1 from TBA, but I have heard that they are taking up to a year for delivery.

Thanks,
 

BillB <dc8plumber@aol.com>
ky, USA - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 00:44:53 (ZULU) 


Hi Guys,
Folding Stocks for tactical rifles, why are't they available as there seems a market for them.Only one major player has brought one out and thats recently,SR-98(Aussie AW with Folding Stock),I am aware of the QR-2,Grendel and various French attempts.But I mean serious versions.
If you were designing a Tactical Folding Stock for BoltGuns what are the features you would want,any responses will be helpfull.

Chris
Chris <cafarr@excite.com>
NZ - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 03:23:10 (ZULU) 


I'm kinda puzzled by the sniper hides that look like a lot of time, energy, materials, and NOISE are expended to create them. Where are such hides used? I wouldn't imagine they're very practical much outside of fairly friendly environments. Is it possible to build a permanent hide under the nose of the enemy? I've seen some pretty nifty hides built by the Brits, but they don't involve any digging. These things were big enough to hide four people, even. I mean, the 23-10 manual shows a hide dug under a rock and big tree! Holy roots! The one permanent hide I saw looked OK, if it wasn't for the fact it looked like a four foot high anthill in the middle of a pine tree plantation. The surface camo was good, but that big lump sticking up from an otherwise flat forest floor looked pretty hokey. What's the story on semipermanent hides?
Will
USA - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 03:36:57 (ZULU) 
ALL,

Need input on the following item's Apache 7x28 Binos,B&L 15-45x60 Spotting Scope(Is this the M-144 SpottingScope?)and how can you make
Kowa's waterproof and is it worth while doing so,or is it better to
buy a waterproof spottingscope like the B&L or Leupold.Are the
apache's as good as Steiner 8x30B/ST.Any help appreciated.Thanks.
 

Chris

cafarr@excite.com
Chris <cafarr@excite.com>
NZ - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 04:57:49 (ZULU) 


Chris,
Why would you want a folding stock? Is your infil. by air?
The whole crux of the sniper-rifle debate subtley balances between
building the most accurate rifle with repeatable results and something that a man can deploy with in the field. If a folding stock contributes to this in a positive manner it should be considered. If not leave the folders on your semi-autos,they look cool and would-be's will pay more the the rifle.

Will,
What you saw as a hump in the forest floor is something no trained digger would occupy let alone a trained sniper. Using
a tool entrenching, sand bags to cart away the spoil to a spot where you disperse/cam it up, section of chicken wire and section of hessian
cloth you can make reasonable hide at night. Noise is a function of speed and care. The result is a shallow shell-scrape with a very low canopy of chicken wire covered by hessian (painted to terain)garnished
with local vegetation if appropriate. The height should just allow access/egress and use of visual aids/sights as appropriate.
C. More
- Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 05:28:45 (ZULU) 


Chris-
The Apache binos are very nice to my eyes. To me, I think the the image is better than in the issue Steiners, plus they fit in a M249 ammo pouch on my LBV. There are some down sides though. You cannot use them into the evening or early morning due to the small obj., and the field of view is small.
Sniper hides. If you are doing a stay behind or are part of a defense, then be a digging fool. You will live longer. The rest of the time though, I only use an e-tool to modify an existing scrape. Since you will most likely dig at night, when sound carries best caution is called for. The massive constructs shown in the books are, to my way of thinking, highly impractical in the type of operations my unit conducts. Each AO requires different techniques.

Ed <Ed_Engler@softhome.net>
CP Greaves, ROK - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 09:19:25 (ZULU) 


Does anyone have any experience with WARN steel bases? The steel Maxima (as listed in their catalog)is said to be in the weaver pattern. The reason I bring this up is that if you folks with Savage 110FPs want to use high quality rings like the various Mk4 types, it looks like these bases might give you that optionl. I have never played with them but we get a lot of questions from people looking for a Mk4 type base for their Savage rifle. The only thing I can see that might be a problem (assuming these bases are any good) is that the only have one cross slot which limits your mounting options a little.

Please post your experiences with these bases here on the roster for the benefit of the readers.

Also, have any of you Savage guys tried the Baer bases?
 
 

T. Simpson: I have very little (read: almost none) experience with the IOR telescopic sights. I like their binoculars quite a bit but for the couple of minutes I got to look at one of their scopes I was not all that impressed. The glass seemed clear enough but I did not test it. I did not realyl care for the reticle type. They also have adjustments in somewhat odd increments if memory serves- I think it is in MILS instead of MOA. At this risk of pissing off some of their users, I'd advise getting something else for now unless you want to relearn the basics. Maybe we can get a loaner for review.

Doc. if you are out there, how about a few comments on you IOR scope? I just am not qualified to give a really useful opinion on these things.
Scott <xring@voicenet.com>
USA - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 12:00:14 (ZULU) 


Folding stocks? Oy.
Well, actually, if for some reason you do need a small package during insertion, HS Precision does offer take-down rifles that seem to be very accurate from what I have read. It seems to me that someone, maybe HS, once offered a stock that broke at the pistol grip to give you a short length for transport, but I do not recall any actual folders with in the US.

Hides: Most of the hides you see in books seem to have their origin in WWI or WWII. In the first Big Disagreement snipers had plenty of time to develop elaborate hides and tactics. The lengths to which they went to was simply amazing. A static front allows this. In modern mobile warfare a sniper is not going to have such leeway unless defending a fire base or relatively permanent position.

Tree hides, House hides, bunkers, and other permanent structures all have the disadvantage of being pin pointed and targeted once they are used more than once or twice. While the illustrations of some of the permanent structures look pretty "cool" they have very limited and specific use. A house hide for police is great, but in a war zone the other side just levels two or three houses in the vacinity until the problem goes away. No sense of humor these people...

Of course if you are in an artillery barrage, it sure would be nice to have two feet of logs and some dirt over your head!

Scott <xring@voicenet.com>
USA - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 12:20:18 (ZULU) 


Scott-

The IOR Valdada scope I have is an 8x56mm, Duplex-reticled hunting scope of the European pattern and is an older model with a 26mm tube. I havent shot with it much but in dusk to full darkness testing it compaired favorably with a 3-10x-class 30mm tubed Zeiss variable (forget the exact model), an older (reputedly brighter than a new one) Vari-X II 3x9 and a late model Vari-X III 3.5x10 40mm. It certainly seems bright enough and clarity is very good. However, the adjustments work out to about 1/5 MOA, a bit odd, which peversly enough is what the adjustments on my "tacticalised" Vari-X II 4x12 AO works out to as well.

-Tom
Tom Simpson <bullet45@usit.net>
Columbia, SC, USA - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 13:29:26 (ZULU) 


Scott!

The stock that broke at the pistol-grip was made by McMillan for their M89 rifle (as far as I can recall...).

Actually there seems to be an ever greater need for folding stocks on sniper rifles. The Israeli's understood this and built one on their, for military purposes, excellent Galil Sniper. Right now, Accuracy International is fielding an excellent folding stock for their rifles and, interesting to all you *#$&%#@! Remington-lovers, sells an aftermarket stock for the Rem 700 that is available in folding and fixed versions. Just check out the website of Accuracy International. Have fun!

Stefan

PS. For all you with a sense of reality; I'll mail them and as to build the same stock for Savage rifles.... :-)

Stefan <stefan@sniperhide.com>
Someplace, Somewhere, The Netherlands - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 14:00:31 (ZULU) 


After waiting more than 1 year, my AT1-24 rifle finally showed. The rifle is an absolute piece of art, the fit & finish is beyond belief.
My rifle has a fully adjustable stock(butt & cheek), 26" fluted barrel - 1/11.2 twist .308NATO, H/S Precision detachable S/S magazine system, AT one-piece steel base, Mark4 rings, 10X40 B&L Tactical, Harris tilting bipod, olive drab stock & back spider web pattern, a trigger that is outstanding - clean,crisp - under 2.lbs, rifle was supplied with several target's measuring 0.333 to 0.384 MOA. Having had owned both Robar & McMillan rifles, and currently owning a AWP rifle. This rifle both meets and exceeds the above mentioned rifle systems. Hope to be able to provide groups, the rifle will hold over longer distances. My closing statement is buy Canadian - we know more than just good bacon & beer.
gadget
gadget <gajcevic@yahoo.com>
Ontario, Canada - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 14:43:58 (ZULU) 
Stephan! Thanks dude! That folder was nagging me and I just could not recall who it was. McBros. kept popping up in my mind but I was not making the connection. Dude, now it is I who owe YOU the Grolsch.
Scott <xrin@voicenet.com>
USA - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 14:54:23 (ZULU) 
Ladies/Gentleman,

There is a real interesting little tidbit in the latest issue of Sierra Bullets newsletter "The X-Ring" on bullet seating in OEM barrels with long throats. Its entitled "Sneaking in the Back Door"
something about up top .060" off the Glans, ooops lands!

www.sierrabullets.com OR through the Sniper Country Gun Links page

I received my copy in the mail and don't know if its up on their website but check it out.
 

Al O. ..........Tonight dude...............
 

Chao!
peteR <PNGREIFF@AOL.COM>
Big-City, By-Gawd, USA - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 17:10:17 (ZULU) 


I just read a a request for some info. on IOR scopes. A friend and I recently tested one and compared it to a Leupold 4.5x14 40mm. Both had Mil-ranging. Briefly the IOR had excellent optics easily equal to and propably brighter than the Leupold. During ranging test we were able to range equally well with the IOR. The reticle I had consisted of Mils and partial mil (hash marks) markings. These were easier for us to use than the standard Leuplod mils and we liked that system. Repeatability of adjustment was excellent and a several mil change and then return to the original setting placed the shot in the same hole as before the change and return. On the down side the Zero is a little different using a internal zero adjustment under a cap. Once zeroing is done the adjustments are done using the external adjustment knobs. The adjustment were in 1/8 mils and the knob was not indexed in true mils or minutes. This is very confusing to people like myself who like to read the adjustment changes from the the knobs. One Mil (8 clicks) fell between the numbers 1 and 2 on the dial. Not good, but the clicks were very positive. There was no provisions for a sunshade and the reticle thickness was a little thicker than preferred. Thinner where they intersected would allow for a better hold. Don't want to take up too much space here, hope this gives you an idea and answers some of your questions. Feel free to e-mail me if you have any questons.
BArry Chance <Barry_Chance@maxtor.com >
Longmont, CO, USA - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 18:27:31 (ZULU) 
Stefan,

When you were talking about folding stocks you mentioned that,"The Israeli's understood this and built one on their.....excellent Galil
Sniper." That seems like a good observation, but I am wondering if you have ever shot one of these or have tried to use one for shooting other than paper punching? Perhaps you had different experiences than the ones that I and the others in my unit had, having had to endure these cumbersome, unwieldy door stops for several weeks of shooting and training for tactical operations. A few points that I feel I have to make about this rifle.

The stock. Yes, it folds but for what specific purpose? From what we were told by the person who aquired them for our unit and from all the manuals and other info that was with the guns and their kits, the folding stock was to make it easier for the gun to be dropped with parachutists. One idea that I was told is that rather than having the delay of having to get the gun out of a drop bag, they thought it was better to go in with it strapped to your body and then land with it acessible and ready to go. Sounded strange to us, like they were planning on dropping snipers into the middle of a fire fight. Who knows?? I never got a chance to ask the design team, you know?

The stock was solid and with it folded it made it a pain in the a** to carry the weapon in nearly all positions. Every where you tried to get a grip on the rifle (forearm, pistol grip, etc..) the damn stock was in the way. If they were going to go so far as to make a folding stock they should have made it a hollow skeleton type stock of metal instead of how it was.

When the stock was "unfolded", extended, made ready to fire, whatever you want to call it... often the joint was somewhat loose and nearly every rifle had a bit of flex to the joint. It got to where I was wrapping the joint in about 3 ft of 100 MPH tape just to tighten it up.

The magazines were way to tall and when combined with the height of the pistol grip, you were so "tall" when laying in your FFP that we were busted often before we could get the shot off on observed stalks.

We experienced far to many malfunctions for many of us to consider it reliable. Weather it was the magazines or some other internal factor I am not certain.

The trigger was far to heavy and seemed to 'break' at different points every few rounds and was never consistent.

The forearm was clunky and far too square, add to that the bipods that the Galil had, it would catch on every thing that came near it. I once got so tangled up in my spotter when using him as a rest (in an FFP) that we had a WWF match trying to get untangled. The bipods lacked enough adjustments and although very stiff they had a tendency to fold on you just as you found your 'window'.

My main bitch about this weapon was the side rail mounted scope. The scope was mounted to a 2 1/2 inch by 5 inch long metal frame. This mounted to a side rail on the left hand side of the gun and would supposedly hold zero after being removed and remounted (remember the air-droppable theme here?). Well consistent with the rifles other features it never would give you a repeatable zero. So what just leave it on all the time? We did. Another even bigger problem was that the scopes that came with the rifles would experience reticle jump, if thats what you can call it. We would get dialed in and get a string of consistent shots on an 8ft by 8ft cheesecloth with small bullseye targets pasted to them. Then we would start on pop up silouettes and walkers. After perhaps 15 to 25 total shots we would suddenly start missing every one. So we shift back to the bulls to shoot one and POI would often be 7 to 10 inches off of POA. They never jumped consistently, either in number of shots or in a certain direction. Unfortunetly I dont remember the brand or any of the marks on the scopes so I couldnt tell you who made them. All I do remember is that besides shooting very badly they looked very cheap just at a glance.

This is not meant to attempt to discredit your ideas that folding stocks have merit, I believe they do in certain limited situations. I just think that perhaps you should us a different rilfe as the Galil is a poor example.

Excellent Galil sniper rifle?

Not from my experience.

SSG Cady, I tried that link that you posted,
http://www.benning.army.mil/fbhome/29THINF/SNCRSPRE.HTM
but the browser said it was not able to locate that site. Is there another URL that I could try? Does that URL still work for you? Is there another way to access that info?

Pat (MrBullet), What unit is your kid a member of? Did he join LRS in Ashland or did he hook up in Lincoln? I am working on hopping the fence to Maj Brewers group to get in some training and shooting. Email me offline if you have time. Perhaps we will see each other at the match this June.
CCaspers <DeltaVKPS@hotmail.com>
Omaha, Nebraska, USA (you betcha!) - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 19:07:29 (ZULU) 


Gooch,
Did you see those Galils too? We had them at the Mare in 92 but I think they were there before that, (91?).
C~
CCaspers <DeltaVKPS@hotmail.com>
Omaha, Neb, USA - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 19:10:17 (ZULU) 
Scott Hannah:

I have tried several times to reach Walt at Technicarbon for Stefan (and for myself). Have left vms's. Will try again

Jeff A.
Jeff A. <d1k2l3@aol.com>
Hotlanta, Ga, USA - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 20:05:38 (ZULU) 


CCaspers: I just hit http://www.benning.army.mil/fbhome/29THINF/SNCRSPRE.HTM with my browser, no troubles. The net is a finicky thing at times - I won't go into the many possibilities here but you may want to try again. But I'm also going to paste in the text here, since it might interest other folks. I'm hoping the formatting ends up looking OK, and I'm not going to touch up the typos...

SNIPER COURSE PREREQUISITES

1. Must be a VOLUNTEER and have the commanders recomendation.
2. Must be in the grade of E3 thru E7. (WAIVERABLE)
3. Must score 70% in each event of the standard APFT for the appropriate age group which will be conducted on the class start date. All studentsmust achieve the standard.
4. Students must be CMF 11B, 11M or in the CMF 18 series. (NON-WAIVERABLE)
5. Students must have a GT SCORE of 110 or higher. (NON-WAIVERABLE)
6. Students must have 20/20 vision or correctable too 20/200 and have normal color vision.
7. Must show documentation that the last two (2) weapons qualification
with the M-16A1/M16A2 were at the EXPERT level.
8. Must have a MINIMUM of 0ne (1) year retainability. (NON-WAIVERABLE)
9. Must have no adverse Disciplinary history of any kind. (NON-WAIVERABLE)
10. Must be dependable and capable of working alone under adverse conditions for extended periods of time.
11. Must show documentation of a Psychological Evaluation.

COMMANDERS ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR ENSURING THEIR SOLDIERS MEET ALL THE PREREQUISITES AS OUTLINED IN DA PAM 351-4, U.S. ARMY FORMAL SCHOOLS CATALOG. SOLDIERS NOT MEETING THE PREREQUISITES WILL BE RETURNED TO THEIR UNIT.
 

Dave <dave@broadsword.com>
San Jose, CA, USA - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 21:45:28 (ZULU) 


Can someone tell me the difference between CAR handguards and the new M4 handguards? Thanks.
B. Melick <tmelick@monbar.com>
New Orleans, LA, USA - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 22:01:43 (ZULU) 
Thanks to all who replied to my hide query.

I'm gonna build one on a small, wooded rise in back of my house that overlooks my back yard. (Yes, it's my land.) If I can successfully do this without all the neighborhood dogs, kids, et al raising the alarm, AND camouflage it to the point that Sweetness never finds it, I figure I will have done alright. If Sweetness detects the hide, I'll probably be living in it!
Will
USA - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 22:20:09 (ZULU) 


I NEED A LOAD for a 762-39 bolt gun and 762-54 bolt thanks SIMPERFI
BOB .F <BGGUN1775@AOL.comI need>
USA - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 22:29:05 (ZULU) 
Guys,

Does anyone know where one can get Federal Gold Medal .308 175gr.(in quanitity at a discount)? Jeff at Hoplite (502-955-5014)does not have any and further more does not know when he will have a new supply. Certainly not time soon!

Thanks
EyeMan <stepmont@dfn.com>
USA - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 23:05:19 (ZULU) 


Pat:

Just read your post re: 260 and 300 WM. I remember TorF saying that a Berger 140 vld at 2600 fps will track same as 220MK out of 300WM out to 1000.

Well, I've not had the chance to try but I've noticed that the 140 class 260s even at a moderate load ( ie 44.0 gr N160 or 38.0gr Varget) require less elev. to go from 100 to 300yd. Also, at Feb. match at 500, 600, 700 yd. a friend shooting 140mk was hitting with much less elev. adj. than yours truly. Way less. I was shooting 185 bergers in 308. Rainbow trajectory compared to his 260. I needed 12.5 min. up from 100yd to 500yd. He needed 10 min.

I'll email you about the 142s.

Jeff A.
Jeff A. <d1k2l3@aol.com>
Smyrna, Ga, USA - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 23:15:23 (ZULU) 


Bach: The M4 handguards have a larger diameter and inside their are double heat shields, the idea behind both changes is to deal with a hot barel beter than the original style handguards. How much of an issue this might be with a semi-auto AR is probably up for debate.

If you decide to pick some up, be sure to shop around. Even vendors in the same issue of Shotgun News will often have a $10 price difference.

I upgraded my shorty AR with the M4 handguards a while back. They work well but they don't fit as tightly as the original guards and there is some rotation. I should fix that someday, but I may instead just abandon the M4 guards in favor of the Surefire Millenium whe the budget can take the hit.

Dave <dave@broadsword.com>
San Jose, CA, USA - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 23:24:25 (ZULU) 


Guys,

The AT1-M24 has been sold already. I would answer all of you one at a time but I would wear out the key board. I will let you know when we get our demo's in stock if anyone is interested. We will be getting 3 AT1-C24's pretty soon. One is MINE! I'll let ya'll know when they come in.

Next mission is to get a Norma distributorship. Norma match is the deal man. The canadians use it for thier sniper load and it out performs Federal in an M24 (1:11.2 twist) by far. I'll let you guys know on this too if we can get it.
gooch <pte00791@mail.wvnet.edu>
USA - Thursday, April 22, 1999 at 23:43:43 (ZULU) 


To All: (Scott) I have recently purchased a IOR Valdada 2.5 X 10 scope and am impressed with the clarity and the tracability of the scope. Although like different people have eluded to, it is not broken down into true mils but, I have it mounted on a 300 Whisper which only has a range of maybe 200 meters (at best). But superbly accurate at 75 to 150 yards. So I developed my own adjustments for my shooting with the Whisper. One thing I noticed that was a little disconcerting was when you brought the magnification down to 2.5 to 3 power, you were able to see inside the edges of the innards of the scope. This is somewhat difficult to explain unless you actually view it, but up past the 5 power all the way through 10, the scope is bright, clear and very capable and very tracable. Another slight (?) drawback is that it has a one inch tube instead of the 30mm like we are all used to the M3 and M1.With this in mind, the stop to stop range is shorter than with a 30mm tube.

peteR: Oh peteR you are such a tease, always tonite and you never show up! Also did you read read the qualifications for becoming a military sniper. We would have to take a psychological evaluation. Well, leaves the both of us out. I know YOU would flunk that for sure, as would most of all your Western Virginny kinfolk.

Also now I am a spray can enthusiast for making camo colored rifles. I don't have to go spraying grafitti on brick walls any more. Im still pretty impressed with my handiwork (Don't even go there with that word, peteR.) But then again it doesn't take much to impress a Polish Fly-boy like me either.

I'm outta here.

al o
Al Ostapowicz <aaostapowicz@nls.net>
Scoping Things out here and there in the BOuntiful State of , Ohio, USA - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 00:23:05 (ZULU) 


Norma match ammo:
Here are some test results for the Norma match ammo as well as other popular factory match loads._(clickhere)_

Has anyone here ever heard of "Top Hat bedding bushings" There is a company in New Zealand which makes match rifles incorporating this feature. The significance of the "Top Hat" method is that no torque wrench is required. To see some pictures,_(clickhere)_. Could be the future, who knows?

I dont want a folding stock, but on my wish list is a good stock with a butt trap to hold cleaning gear and other dodads. There is a very good design that I like in a factory rifle. The N.E.F. handi rifle "Survivor" series has a nice swing away recoil pad and a nice storage area in the butt. This feature is too practical to ignore on a serious rifle.
 

Steve <nato@bright.net>
S.C.D.H., Ohio, USA - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 01:12:03 (ZULU) 


All of the readers here that are looking for a good inch/pound torque wrench can easily obtain one ftom several sources. I have two of them. One is a Sears Craftsman adjustable from 10 in/lbs. to about 100 in/lbs. The other is from Proto tool company. It is adjustable also. I am sure Snap-On makes one also. By the way I shoot a Rem. 700 with a HS Precision police sniper stock in .308, Leupold Mk4 M1 in a one piece D.D. Ross mount. This gun has had trigger work done, heavier action screws installed and torqed, and a barrel that has been properly broken in. It will shoot ragged one hole groups all day long at 100 meters.
Sundance <Sundance@Bikerider.com>
Disputanta, Virginia, USA - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 01:14:33 (ZULU) 
Quick note on ammo, since good factory stuff seems to be in short supply...or not in supply at all.

Company in Indiana that manufactures some excellent 223 / 308 /300wm match ammo. Gordon Technologies, phone is 219-663-4104. I know Jerry supplies a number of LE agencies here, and many recreational shooters. Good guy, great ammo.
 

Old Dog
 

Bruce <Bruce@mannlawfirm.com>
USA - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 01:38:10 (ZULU) 


Semper Fi Devil Dogs, and hello to the Army chaps.

With all the high-tech fabrics out there, like Goretex, I wanted to know what the current thoughts are in the tactical community, in regard to increase in detection by infra-red or other thermo-optical sensors.

Staying dry is fine and dandy, but sacrificing concealment is another story.

In particular, this scent-lock fabric, with a thin layer of charcoal. I know it's something used more by deer hunters than our armed forces. But does someone know how susceptible such material is to thermal sensors.

I'd appreciate any thoughts from the think tank here.
White Night <white_night@yahoo.com>
USA - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 02:37:16 (ZULU) 


Eyeman,

I saw your post, if you need some Federal GM308M2 (175GR MATCH) try Kiesler's in New Albany Indiana. They do discount some if you buy it by the case. About $350 a case.
Phone number is: 812 288 5740.

They had some in stock a couple of weeks ago.

Best of Luck,
BillB <dc8plumber@aol.com>
ky, USA - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 03:53:51 (ZULU) 


I saw an ad in "Shotgun News" of a Mauser 66 NIB for $2225. Is it worth that money? Does anyone out there have experience with this German rifle?
Oh, forget to mention. This guy is in US.
Thanks for any input.
Steve
USA - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 05:08:59 (ZULU) 
Steve,

Mauser 66, NIB ? new in box ????

the 66 is still the most often encountered police sniper rifle in germany, it has a integral magazine and operates with the mauser short bolt system. the barrel and muzzle brake are like on the Mauser 86 (see Photo Gallery). Most of them came with a real nice adjustable walnut stock with something like an anschütz adjustable buttplate.
accuracy is very good and for the price you mentioned and if i am right about nib? then i would go for it.

however ! mauser has sold/closed their sporting weapon section, but the parts and service is being handled by a small company in oberndorf run by former mauser employee´s.

good scope for the above would be a schmidt&bender pm series in a eaw mount.
 

Gooch !

let us - D.west, Al.O and myself paint your new rifle in June, each one of us gets a spraycan in a diffrent color and 3...2....1.....squirt !!!!! please !!!
 

"Ende"
Torsten <Lasercon@dialup.globe.de>
Germany - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 06:24:42 (ZULU) 


PS

I have a real good idea for a camo pattern ! just hold the rifle with one hand and spray paint over it ! Or better, have the Goochman hold it and have three guys paint ! ; )
sprayfreak <ya know>
g-3land - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 06:36:39 (ZULU) 


Alright folks, time for me to get my weekly asswhuppin. (what usually happens when I ask for an opinion) I'd like to get a little feedback on some glass. I'm looking for a good pair of 10x binocs with a mil dot reticle that won't - I say again - won't break the bank. Preferrably armored with a camo paint scheme (like the Bushnell 13-1054s)

I have no idea where to start looking so any opinions here would be greatly appreciated. Just give me some advance warning so I can duck :-D
Ralf H <sledghamr@aol.com>
Sea, WA, USA - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 07:36:53 (ZULU) 


Hi Guys,
Thanks for the comments on the Apache Binos and folding stocks,need more input on stock design.Here's an outline of what I have in mind,a folder that open's and close's like a bank vault ie no movement when deployed ,steel v-block front and rear for M-700 type actions,spacer
system of adjustment for lenght of pull and cheek rest ,and a ammo storage area in the butt,t-rail and spigot pionts for bi-pod atachments and sling atachment points.Great site just so you know what I use it's a Sako TRG-21 in 308 with a tasco 16x42SS in Q-D mounts(next time I will stay at 10x or lower as I feel you must match optic's to the range of the weapon system).The action is silkly smooth in all reguards,use a PH type bi-pod,still playing with load developement,getting three rd groups from 0.15 to 0.55 on average worst so far 0.79 one off.Weapon is far more accurate than I can hold at the moment,very happy with it so far,just brought a M-700VS intend to scrape barrel and replace with match SS barrel.Brought it as a cheep backup to the Sako, and as there is so much after market accessories available(is it just me or is the handle on the Rem too s
short or what,I intend to have it lenghtened).
Chris 
Chris <cafarr@excite.com>
NZ - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 09:01:34 (ZULU) 
Hi Guys,
Thanks for the comments on the Apache Binos and folding stocks,need more input on stock design.Here's an outline of what I have in mind,a folder that open's and close's like a bank vault ie no movement when deployed ,steel v-block front and rear for M-700 type actions,spacer
system of adjustment for lenght of pull and cheek rest ,and a ammo storage area in the butt,t-rail and spigot pionts for bi-pod atachments and sling atachment points.Great site just so you know what I use it's a Sako TRG-21 in 308 with a tasco 16x42SS in Q-D mounts(next time I will stay at 10x or lower as I feel you must match optic's to the range of the weapon system).The action is silkly smooth in all reguards,use a PH type bi-pod,still playing with load developement,getting three rd groups from 0.15 to 0.55 on average worst so far 0.79 one off.Weapon is far more accurate than I can hold at the moment,very happy with it so far,just brought a M-700VS intend to scrape barrel and replace with match SS barrel.Brought it as a cheep backup to the Sako, and as there is so much after market accessories available(is it just me or is the handle on the Rem too s
short or what,I intend to have it lenghtened).
Chris 
Chris <cafarr@excite.com>
NZ - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 09:02:35 (ZULU) 
TRG 21 !

for all you SAKO lovers, I got EAW to make a forward canted Weaver/Picatinney rail for the SAKO TRG 21/41.

Have a two buddies that own one now and have Mk 4 Leupold rings on them. Real nice, and still lower than the original Sako mount.
 

"Ende"
 

Torsten <lasercon @dialup.globe.de>
Germany - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 09:35:36 (ZULU) 


Hi guys, I want to get a M40A1 rifle, who make the best and as close as to the mil-spec M40A1? TBA (Texas Bridege Armory), AWC, DD Ross? any other suggestions?

thanks

also, I'm looking to buy the new SIG SSG-3000 sniper rifle too, the people at SIG dont know who carry it, any one know where I can get one?
vpower <vpower2@earthlink.net>
CA, USA - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 09:54:21 (ZULU) 


CCaspers: On that Galil Sniper rifle: I have to admit that, considering the way snipers are being employed in the US forces, this rifle may indeed seem rather crappy.
However, up until recentrly, most European countries were employing sharpshooters (won't call them snipers) as regular grunts who just happened to have their rifles topped with a scope and if luck had it, they were taught to shoot at about 500 meters, just a wee bit further then their regular infantry-type buddies. The Dutch Army, for instance, was using the FN-FAL and all they did for their SLA's (Schutter Lange Afstand = Shooter Long Distance) was find a FAL that grouped well and equip it with a 4x scope. Their main task was perimeter defence and/or targeting NCO's and such, at ranges beyond 300 meters and up to 600 meters. I believe the germans did the same in those days, using the G3. Torsten, can you confirm this?

Even nowadays, where our Army is using the Diemaco C7A1 (Canadian built M16A3 with Elcan sight), they consider the SLA a normal grunt who carries the Diemaco rifle, AS WELL AS as the Accuracy International SM in .338 Lapua Magnum. Yes, that's right, he's carrying TWO STICKS!!!! Try that during MOUT!!!

Considering all that, I guess you are not surprised that I consider the Israeli option of building a more accurate rifle, while mainaining parts interchangeability, a RELATIVELY sensible one.

On folding stocks: I wouldn't use the extra feature of a folding stock other then during chopper/vehicle operations (or on a jump, but I've never jumped with a weapon, so I couldn't tell....). Walking around with a folded sniper-rifle in a combat zone makes you look pretty silly, dude...

CCaspers, I hope the two of us got a bit closer together here.... Oh, and BTW; Yes, I've shot it. It was on a 500m range and I liked it, although I see your point about using it in combat. Two different things man....

Scott: Why didn't you tell me on the phone yes of ay, that you would be buying the beer.... I just called the wholesaler to find out how much 10 crates would cost me... :-) Ah, Grolsch export you're gonna buy me, eh? Guess not... That's not why I'm coming over. I can have the REAL STUFF over here!

L8er all!

Stefan
Stefan <stefan@snipercountry.com>
Someplace, Somewhere, The Netherlands - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 14:26:51 (ZULU) 


CCaspers… in defense of the Galil (sorta')…

I wouldn't go so far as to call the Galil a long-range sniper rifle... not against 2'x6' targets at 800-1000mtrs, but as a spotters weapon, in a situation where the ranges are limited to 500-6--mtrs, or in a chaotic urban situation like "Watts" or in East L.A. /'91, I would rate it very high.

I have seen Galils with the folding tubular stock... (a real dog), but mine has a "hollow skeleton type stock" with a locking system that is rock solid. It has a tapered locking bolt that is wear compensating, and takes about 40 pounds of push to unlock and fold it. And when folded, it is flat against the rifle, and held there by spring so it doesn't flop... it takes about 5 pounds of pull to open it.
The sling attachment points on the side, make the rifle lie flat on your back, or flat across your chest... very nice.

I like the bipod... it folds backwards, up "inside" the forestock out of the way, not forward, sticking out under the barrel, like the Harris, P&H, and M2.

The 25 round mag "IS" tall, but the 14 round mag is shorter than the grip, and you can get the gun down low.
The mags rotate into the gun much smoother than on a M14/M21.

The trigger was poor when I got it, but it is an easy trigger to work on, and any armorer should be able to clean it up... mine is now a nice clean, predictable two stage.

Mine will shoot 1½" to 2" with de-linked MG ammo, and a junk after market scope mount, and 4x scope. I haven't used good ammo in it yet, may do that this summer, if I can find an original scope mount.
It has never jamed, or failed to feed, fire, or eject a round.

Would I compare it against heavy barreled M70's and M700's... no way. But I would rate it better that most straight 14's, better than the current rage of "scout" rifles, and better than a Colt 15/16 as a spotters weapon.
It is tougher and more flexible than the M14 family, and for targets out to 500-600mtrs, it's better than many others.

My main bitch is that the bolt doesn't stay open on the last shot.
 

Pablito <condor@mags.net>
USA - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 14:28:59 (ZULU) 


If anyone has links to sniping manuals online, pleasee email me with them. Also if your tournament is in So. California, tell me about it. Thank you!
Paul <Tru71lvr@aol.com>
xxx, CA, USA - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 14:49:12 (ZULU) 
Does the standard USMC M40A1 have a Woodland Camo stock, or does it have a Forest Camo stock? What other colors does the official USMC M40A1 come in? Arctic White? Desert Camo?
B. Melick <tmelick@monbar.com>
New Orleans, LA, USA - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 14:58:02 (ZULU) 
B. Melick asked:

"Does the standard USMC M40A1 have a Woodland Camo stock, or does it have a Forest Camo stock? What other colors does the official USMC M40A1 come in? Arctic White? Desert Camo?"

The name is usually referred to as forest camo. The old ones were smudged-look epoxy colors, but the newer McMillian stocks aren't. That's the official color. Any other color is between you and your paint.... white, tan, etc., it's all do-it-yourself.
Rock <lnbright@juno.com>
TN, USA - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 15:12:43 (ZULU) 


Stephan...weeeelll...if I am buying I will treat you to that (I refuse to say "good old") American standby...Bud. If you survive I'll give you a REAL beer. Bud puts truth to the Python Joke about "American beer being like making love in a canoe..."
Then again, from what you tell me, Corona is the Piss beer of Mexico. So I guess we will have to flip a coin on the poison.

B. Melick: I believe they came in the "woodland" three tone pattern. But to tell you the truth, from everything I hear they do not stay that way for long. They get painted pretty quickly.

Some comments on the impregnated paint jobs. While they do last forever, they are hardly ideal. When wet they tend to shine a quite a bit. They look good on the range but having a black barrel, action and scope on top of a camo'd stock will not make you blend in very well in the field. To sum it up, do not sweat what ever color a stock comes in as you will end up painting it to match the environment anyway - at least if you get into tactical or competitive shooting in a tactical type environment. This is one reason why I would suggest not paying extra for a factory paint scheme from any of the stock makers. You can do a better job at home. On the other hand, if you are only building a range rifle, then a custom factory paint scheme can look darn neat.

Scott <xring@voicenet.com>
USA - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 16:49:35 (ZULU) 


From a practical as well as a tactical point of view, are there any advantages or disadvantages of nickel plated brass in Federal Gold Medal?

Thanks,
Doc <docs@fidnet.com>
The Ozark boonies, MO, USA - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 18:07:58 (ZULU) 


Sniper's Paradise first annual rifle competition is coming up in June,
visit the site at http://snipersparadise.com for information as well as an entry form. It looks to be a very comprehensive competition. There are still slots available, but they are filling quickly. This is going to be a great competition, and they are giving away a rifle. Don't miss out on this.
James
USA - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 18:13:35 (ZULU) 
I went to my local gun store last weekend and rented a video called "AR-15 / M16: America's Rifle". Have any of you seen this video? Is that our infamous Gooch I saw on the tape? :-)

B. Melick <tmelick@monbar.com>
New Orleans, LA, USA - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 19:42:10 (ZULU) 


Hey Gooch,

A movie star! Will ya autograph my data book?

Oh I don't have it yet! HINT-HINT..............

have a great weekend guys

Chao!
peteR <pngreiff@aol.com>
in awe city, by-gawd, USA - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 20:08:45 (ZULU) 


B. Melick-- re M40A1 stocks, they are medium green with some lines of lighter green and some of reddish brown. The recoil pad is brown. re advice on being a cop, some of the best I've gotten-- treat everyone with the same respect you would want shown to one of your relatives. try saying, "If you act like a gentleman I will treat you like one." (surprisingly effective) WATCH THEIR HANDS- hands hold weapons. Never let your guard down- don't be one of those who get lucky and survive, only to say, "I never thought it would happen to me." Tragically, many who thought it would never happen to them paid the ultimate price because of complacency--Make your own luck. Practice, train, and learn. When you get out on the street, remember, this could be the day. Sure as heck, if you respond to a burlar alarm thinking it's bogus, that will be the one with the armed burglar inside. Stay in shape, work out like your life depends on it, because it might. Most of all, enjoy it. You'll be doing one of the most rewarding jobs in the world. To the guy who wants to be a Marine Scout/Sniper:go to articles and read, "So you want to be a sniper?" and start running. Sorry no E-mail add. I promised my wife I would have a seperate one for LE/Military, and can't figure out this $#&* computer, as I was an 0311. I'll get one though
Mark J
Columbus, Ohio, USA - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 20:15:14 (ZULU) 
Gentlemen,
I just bought a Leupold VariX III 3.5x10x40 Tactical from my buddy today, and I have a question about it. Since it didn't come with a manual, I need your expertise - here it goes:

On the turrets, when the dust caps are removed, the adjusters on the scope do not run down to the -0- line of the white metal inner barrel. Is this normal? They both hover around the -2- line. When I back one off more than the other, the opposite will run down further. I'm DEFINATELY not forcing shit, since my education with this scope is nill. Give a guy a hand please! Also, if someone has an extra manual, I'd be grateful.

Cheers all!
Mike
Mike A. <moamike@ix.netcom.com>
WA, USA - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 23:16:18 (ZULU) 


On the video. Was that the Rim Fire Production deal with me at Parris Island? Did they remove the scene with the female recruits and the RIG grease? Sure hope so. Don't I look good in a Smokey? Maybe I'll get one for Storm Mountain. NOT!
 

gooch <pte00791@mail.wvnet.edu>
USA - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 23:47:54 (ZULU) 


Mike A...
If, when you back one off, the other will go further, then the dials are probably way off center. The scope you have should have 51 moa of windage and elevation. When the has 51 moa of elevation, it means it has 50 moa if the windage is centered, and 51 moa of windage if the elevation is centered… but not both. If the windage is way over 10 or 20 moa, then you don't have the 50 of elevation, because the optical section is hitting the side of the tube, and can't go all the way down.
First, center the windage. Turn the dial to one end and write down the number, then turn to the other end, note the number, and set the dial in the middle. Now turn the elevation down. That will be the lowest… it won't say "0", it may be around 1 or 2.
Your scope has 51 moa of elevation, but there are 15 moa per turn, and 5 lines on the barrel… so you can't use it all. Leupold uses the same dials for many of their scopes, and some have 40+ moa, and some have 70+ moa of adjustment.
Not to worry, it's normal.

Pablito <condor@mags.net>
USA - Friday, April 23, 1999 at 23:59:21 (ZULU) 


I'm shooting 168 Federal Gold Match bullets in a Browning A-Bolt II in .308. Problem is, they jam up in the little sheet-metal magazine. Does anyone make a better aftermarket magazine than the manufacturer for this rifle? Or should I just give up and load one round at a time?
Mike <MikeG1@mcwtech.com>
Endicott, WA, USA - Saturday, April 24, 1999 at 01:12:26 (ZULU) 
peteR: I've got Gooch's autograph and you can't have it!! NYah, Nyah, Nyah.

Kent dont mention RIG grease and peteR's name in the same breath. You know how he is.

al o
Al Ostapowicz <aaostapowicz@nls.net>
I've Got the Stuff in , Ohio, USA - Saturday, April 24, 1999 at 01:18:41 (ZULU) 


Question - if Sniper Country was to put ALL of the Archives on CD what would you be willing to pay for the CD??? We'd still keep it the way it is we'd just like to present an additional option.
We're thinking - dangerous isn't it!

Sarge
 

Sarge <garryrn@dfn.com>
Area 51, NM, USA - Saturday, April 24, 1999 at 02:13:17 (ZULU) 


Whelp, now I am the proud daddy of a brand new Remington 700 Police DM. Now what do I do with this thing? :)

The 4-12 AO Vari-X II, IOR QD rings and the Bayer/Lightforce tapered mounts result in a rather high mounting but one that I can live with. The ring heigth would be about perfect for a 50mm objective scope. I love the way this rig ballances and handles. Its not nearly as unwieldy to me as it looks.

I have a feeling that I am about to (re)start a major war on this list, but here goes: does anybody have any recomendations on how best to break in this barrel? Somebody told be at one point that is was hammer forged and if that is true then I imagine that break-in should be simplified as compaired to a conventional button or cut rifled barrel.

Also, the first thing I did was pull the action from the stock (already have the inch-lb torque wrench, thank you) and I noted that there are two rub marks on the reciever on the front action ring. It seems that the reciever was bearing in the bedding only at two narrow longitudinal strips where the aluminum bedding block merges inito the sides of the inletting in the stock itself. There was some thin layers of stock material overlaying the first 1/8" of the aluminum bearing surface. I was ondering if such things were common in these guns or with the HS Precision stocks in general.

Also, what is the recomended torque values for the action screws on this thing?
 

Thanks to all:

-Tom
Tom Simpson <bullet45@usit.net>
Columbia, SC , USA - Saturday, April 24, 1999 at 04:50:52 (ZULU) 


Hey guys !!

If someone has ballistic data on the 175gr Black Hills moly., I would appreciate the info. At least the muzzle velocity from a 24" barrel with a 1-10 twist. Thanks

Brent
Brent <koldbore@hotmail.com>
Shreveport, Louisiana, USA - Saturday, April 24, 1999 at 05:31:59 (ZULU) 


Tom S,

Dude the first thing you do is go to the range and shoot it! ;-)

Don't worry about anything else until barrel is broken in. On mine I cleaned after every shot for the first box of ammo. Used shooters choice and patches. Still shot under an inch @ 100 yds. and under 2 inches @ 200 yds.

Many individuals just shoot them, don't worry about the minutae or benchrest mantras, and do great!

Mine has the funny looking bedding too, still shoots great, no problem!I have my trigger guard bolts torqued to 65 INCH POUNDS and have not had a problem there either.
 

Brent,

Black Hills lists 2600 fps for their ammo (conditions?)and you might get the same. Do you have access to a chronograph? I would bet Al O's knickers it would track about the same a Federal GM308M2 ammo. You can get the trajectory data of Federals web site www.Federalcartridge.com under Gold Medal match ammo.
BUT, don't expect it to give 100% in the real world.
 

Darrell-Darrell,

Contact Al O. and find out about the lens cover for your next roadie! Tell him they make great eye covers if you sleep during the day.
 

Chao!
peteR <PNGREIFF@AOL.COM>
bIG CitY, bY-gAWD, USA - Saturday, April 24, 1999 at 12:51:20 (ZULU) 


PeteR:

Thanks for the quick feedback!

Yes, I understand that the 700P is supposed to be a turnkey precision rifle: thats why I got off the hip for the "big" money (Chandler rifle owners, quit laughing :). However, as a former gunsmith I cant help but go plundering around inside the thing and see what makes it tick. The whole HSPresicion way of doing business is new to me, an old Bisonite and Devcon guy. Your comment on "benchrest mantrtas" is understood.

However, I have now found something that is by no standard a piece a minutae: the barrel makes *hard* contact with the bottom of the barrel channel, from about halfway down the forend back!. That cannot be a cool thing! I did not buy this thing with the idea in mind of having to cut on it before going to the range!
 

-Tom
Tom Simpson <bullet45@usit.net>
Columbia, SC, USA - Saturday, April 24, 1999 at 14:03:16 (ZULU) 


CD archives: sounds like a good excuse to go and get a cd burner...

Ken :)

Ken <ImpactArea@snipercountry.com>
Nokesville, Va, USA - Saturday, April 24, 1999 at 14:18:37 (ZULU) 


TOM,
JUST SHOOT IT! (HEY THAT SOUNDS WAY COOL!)

The channel can be taken care of ASAP if it presents a problem. I think the field expedient was a "C" cell battery and sandpaper. But that post was made about four months of data ago.

Didn't one of the big three used to commonly put a "pressure point" in the barrel channel?

The H-S precision system is great, no fuss - no muss, nothing to worry about for the "average" shooter, whether LEO, Military, or just a plain ol' vanilla civvie like me ;-)
 

SARGE, A CD would be way cool if You and Marius could swing it.
peteR <PNGREIFF@AOL.COM>
BIG CITY, bY-gAWD, USA - Saturday, April 24, 1999 at 14:25:51 (ZULU) 


Sarge,
A CD sounds like a great idea to me. What's the going price for a music CD? Would that price range be reasonable?
peteR,
Remington had a pressure point in the barrel channel where the front sling swivel hole was. At least that's where it was in the new 700 BDL LH stock that I just hogged out to fit a 700 VS-LH. Customer wanted a "pretty" stock on his varmint rifle!
Doc <docs@fidnet.com>
The Ozark boonies, MO, USA - Saturday, April 24, 1999 at 14:53:38 (ZULU) 
Doc,

missed your post on nickled cases,
my 10 cents........

NICKLE IS TOO SHINY FOR FIELD WORK! Dunno on rifle reloading, (MR. Bullet/Bill R.?) but I despise .38 and .45 ACP nickel cases, inconsistant neck sizing and bullet tensions vs "normal" brass-brass.

One more thing to worry about for a nervous nelly like me.

uno-who <PNGREIFF@AOL.COM>
bIG cITY, bY-gAWD, USA - Saturday, April 24, 1999 at 14:54:14 (ZULU) 


Guys,
Can someone E-mail me where I can find two cases (1000 rounds) of
Fed. 175gr. match ammo at a good price?
I know that Hop-lite was the place with the going price of $310 a case, but it looks like their out and won't be getting any before June. Now I'm stuck.
I know some of you have a good source tucked under your hat, and I'm asking alot here, but come-on. I'm hurting here. (sob, sniff-sniff)

What do ya say, fellas. Can you give ole D. West a helping hand here?

Thanks guys! You're the best.

D. West <westforce@juno.com>
begging for an ammo source, in IL., USA - Saturday, April 24, 1999 at 18:45:44 (ZULU) 



I saw some posts about people missing their posts?  Well, I've found the problem, after JeffB very kindly mailed me his two versions.  For a while there we had two Duty Rosters running.  Yup, and those that posted to the old one are naughty, ungrateful, unhelping, work-generating and many more things.  :-)  And remember, I've got the names!  :-)  Man, you guys sent me up a garden path there for a while before I realised what was going on.

When we moved, the TEMPORARY address was http://www.aspire.net/snipercountry/roster/duty_roster.html.  Now some of you naughties never changed the address once we moved, and kept using the direct address, and not the address via our VERY NICE domain name.  This was all very fine and well while we were on that server.  However, when Ken moved us onto a new server, and mapped the domain name ( www.snipercuontry.com ) to the new server, the fun started.  Those very LOYAL subjects who followed the appropriate link ( http://www.snipercountry.com/roster/duty_roster.html ) kept posting to the active Duty Roster.  The others kept posting to the old roster, as it was still available.  Ken still had other accounts on there, and did not delete it, as we first wanted to ensure that the new server was working properly.

So, what I've done, is to take the posts from the wrong Roster and merged them into this one, into the appropriate places.  I do not have all of them yet, and have asked Ken to email me the Roster as it was on the old machine when he finally took it down.  Once I have that I will also work those in.  In the mean time, I've only archived up to 17 April, as early on 18 April the fun started.  You might want to go back to see what you missed.

For those of you that still have ANY Sniper Country bookmarks pointing to the Aspire accounts, don't you please want to fix them up, to prevent such a mishap in the future?

Marius

Marius Ferreira <mferreira@lantic.co.za>
Pretoria, RSA - Saturday, April 24, 1999 at 20:17:44 (ZULU) ( or something like that ) 


Maybe I should have said that the first post was:
Sunday, April 18, 1999 at 02:18:56
and the last one:
Tuesday, April 20, 1999 at 13:49:44
 

$%#&$%#^%$#^#$%, maybe one day I'll start remembering to do a "chmod" on the Roster, and Events, and Emporium, after I've worked on them. If any of you get the following when working on any of them, please contact me ASAP, as I'll first hav eot fix before anybody will be able to post.

===========
Internal Server Error

The server encountered an internal error or misconfiguration and was unable to complete your request.

Please contact the server administrator, noc@aspire.net and inform them of the time the error occurred, and anything you might
have done that may have caused the error.
==========

Marius
Marius Ferreira <mferreira@lanctic.co.za>
Pretoria, RSA - Saturday, April 24, 1999 at 20:51:58 (ZULU) 


Peter,
You wrote:
"The H-S precision system is great, no fuss - no muss, nothing to worry about ...snipped"

Hmmm. Many on this forum will tell you how much better their HS's shot after a proper bedding job. Back when sleeving was in vogue I remember seeing pictures of Remingtons being turned on centered mandrels. It was not a pretty sight. Several light cuts had to be made just to get the darn thing half way true.

For the life of me, I can not see Tom just "shooting it" if the rifle already has "accuracy concerns". If a rifle has a concern, it does not belong at the range. That wasted range time is better spent correcting the details.

Below is a old piece submitted to this forum some time ago. It bears repeating for our newer accuracy buffs.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
This is not a treatise on bedding, but some of the things I would look for on any stock.

1.) Action screws should not rub the stock holes. Also, the screws should show good relationship between the threads and bearing surface of the head. We do not want banana shaped screws here.

2.) Back side of the recoil lug should bear "perfectly" against the stock. This is hard to achieve without bedding compound. Mating a flat to another flat is almost impossible in this situation. Too many thing to go wrong.
a.) Is the receiver faced off squarely? No.
b.) Is the recoil lug perfectly true? No.
c.) Is the mortise in the stock perfectly square? No.
We need a dab of bedding compound there.

3.) The magazine should float in the stock, and should not rub anything. Epoxy or tig weld it to the action. The bottom of the magazine should not quite touch the floorplate either.

4.) Of course the trigger, safety lever, and bolt handle should not touch the stock.

5.) Some bedders also bed the first couple of inches of the barrel ahead of the action. Optional, works either way. But it is a good idea as it assists the action in supporting the heavy barrel.

6.) I like to bed under the receiver ring and tang only, and not have anything in between. There is nothing to rub the action rails and prevent the action from floating back to its previous position. Others bed all the way back and are successful.

7.) If your action has a middle screw, it normally should not be tight. Just draw it up lightly. Otherwise you could pull the middle of the action down.

8.) As far as bedding the recoil lug goes there are a couple of ways to do it. Some people provide for clearance only under the lug with a tight fit on the front, sides, and rear of the lug. Others only bed the backside. Both ways work. I like to lightly dust the back side of my recoil lugs with moly powder. During barrel vibrations the recoil lug "works" a little against the stock, and this assures me that it doesn't stick a little. This wasn't my idea but I read it in an article by the late Creighton Audette. He was a long time accuracy gunsmith and High Power rifle shooter; and quite a thinker. He is the one who proved that case wall concentricity errors can cause groups to open up. He proved it by firing alternate shots at 300 yards, first with the thin side of the case wall oriented to the left and then oriented to the right. His model 70 would print two quite distinct small groups beside each other. Finally, a group shot with just random orientation of case wall errors and predictably it was much larger than the others. This was all documented in the American Rifleman and in other sources many years ago. It was quite a long article.

I'm certain that I left some things out.

Ron N.
Ron N. <rcn8@accnorwalk.com>
USA - Saturday, April 24, 1999 at 23:29:50 (ZULU) 


Rifle Camo: McMillan stocks have the camo molded in. Scott I know they are not dull from the factory but just get some Steel Wool and rub. They dull in no time.

Al: The Val-whatever binoculars are great. Very clear.

Bedding: I have been playing with McMillans A4 stock. It is great. Kelly McMillan told me not to bed it so I did. Shoot just like it did in my HS Stock. I asked if the Fiberglass would crush without pilars. Kelly laughed at me and said it would take 100" pounds. I did so and broke the screws. the fiberglass did not crush. I am going to bed it and see how much better it shoots than the HS or the un bedded McMillan.

Report to follow in a few weeks.

Review is just about done on A4 and Leupold M1 Tactical Scope
Mike M <DMMDNLN@AOL.COM>
calif, USA - Saturday, April 24, 1999 at 23:37:50 (ZULU) 


On new guns, I agree with Ron. It is easy to burn several hundred rounds "looking for a load" in a fussy gun, only to find out that an action screw was binding, there was some chips under the reciever, etc. The first thing I do with a new gun is take it down, check the insides for crud, adjust the trigger, re-assemble it making sure that there are no binding screws or parts... it will save you time and ammo. Remember that the guys that put these thing together at the factory, have pressures and problems of their own, and it might have been a bad day at work.

On nickle cases... I love them, rifle or pistol. They stay clean, are easy to find at the range, last forever, and slip through loading dies like owl poop, and don't get grungy when in contact with leather, or cleaning solvents.
I have 300 pieces of Fed .308 nickle match that started out in a .308 40x, then spent some time necked down in a 7-08, and now are back up to 308 in a M70/SS... havent lost a single case, though about 50 need annealing.

In tactical situations, with pistol, they already know where you are, so seeing the glitter is of no issue, and they are easier to pick up if needed. With rifle, catch the cases at the ejection port... and if case glitter is really an issue, use blackened brass cases, coated with silicone wax.
 

Pablito <condor@mags.net>
USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 00:30:37 (ZULU) 


Not a "sniper" question, but a serious one for my ears.

Hearing protection...decided I can't lose anymore of what God gave me so...need a recommendation on excellent quality, light, adjustable hearing protectors... what say ye?

Thanks,

Bruce
Bruce <Bruce@mannlawfirm.com>
USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 01:16:15 (ZULU) 


Just checking in for the future

Thanx

Jimmy Graham <James_graham@hmis.org>
Youngstown, Ohio, USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 01:33:01 (ZULU) 


Just checking in for the future

Thanx

Jimmy Graham <James_Graham@hmis.org>
Youngstown, Ohio, USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 01:33:47 (ZULU) 


Hi All
I'm new at this and need help, I'm a range sniper only and usually only shoot at 200 to 600 yards. Just ordered a Remington 700 Police with a 20" (yes 20") barrel. Supposed to be an urban tactical rifle. The rifle has a detachable box magazine, synthetic stock, and FLUTES on the barrel. I ordered this rifle before finding this web site. I just read the November posts about the disadvantages of flutted barrels. As a machinist, I felt that the added surface would make the barrel stiffer but stiffness was never mentioned in the posts. Am I way off base? Also, how will the very short barrel affect accuracy and will the unburned powder generate undue muzzel flash, noise, recoil, etc.
JH
John Havemann <jfhavemann@msn.com>
Taylor Ridge, Illinois, USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 02:35:53 (ZULU) 
On the shorty sniper rifle the flutes are shallower and wider compared to the standard fluting so the problem of weakening the barrel is not as drastic. Shorter barrel will just bleed off velocity and reduce effectivness at longer ranges. A student had one during a seminar we did in Dallas and it shot like gold!
 
 

gooch <pte00791@mail.wvnet.edu>
USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 02:44:44 (ZULU) 


Geez,

What a spanking!

I don't think I said shoot bunches of handloads through a rifle did I?

What harm is firing a dozen or so groups going to cause? Destabilization of the North and South Poles of planet Earth?

You mean I HAVE to do all of that gunsmithing before I shoot a rifle for effect? Gosh I should just bought a Chandler, AT-24, or H-S Precision take down..........

Guess this poor uneducated hill billy mind just can't figure out why the first group through his 700 PoliceDM went under 1/2" at 100 yds.
without a gunsmiths help with factory ammo.

What are the accuracy concerns I missed other than a high spot or pressure spot in the barrel channel? Was it e-mailed off Duty Roster and I'm unawares? How does poor Tom know his rifle won't shoot out of the box? He's a gunsmith, me I'ma knuckle dragger.

Like the moly tip for the recoil lug though, how often does it hafta be done? every group?, once?, during maintnance?

#3 How do I weld a detachable magazine to my action?
How will Tom do this??????????? Won't this defeat the purpose of the DM?

Do I have to align my cases in the chamber during the Carlos Match in October. How do I do this during the Match #6 Moving targets, Stress event Match #7, or the High angle shots match #9 ?

help me guys I'ma moron!!!

Burning in Sniper Hell,
peteR
peteR <PNGREIFF@AOL.COM>
BIG BURNING CITY, bY-gAWD, USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 03:30:47 (ZULU) 


peteR,
I have to agree with Ron and Pablito on taking them apart and checking them out. I just traded for a new 260 VLS and I put it in a 700PSS stock and it fit like a saddle on a sow. When I torqued down the front action screw the gun visibly pulled down into the stock and then when I loosened the front screw it would "Raise" up out of the stock, this tells me I have one hell of a bind some place!!!! I Thoroghly cleaned the rifle and then noticed that as i was pulling the cleaning rod back toward the action, when I was using the JBs, there seems to be a noticable "Step" in the barrel, I cant feel it pushing the rod forward only pulling it to the rear, so I am not to happy right now. I will take it to the range tomorrow but I have a sick feeling that I have a major barrel problem. The H&S Stock fit the rifle that it came off of perfectly so it does pay to check things out. Even and old country boy like you can get lucky now and then and you must have, but if his barrel is in to the barrel channel he has a problem!! Now go to bed and quit giving the experts a hard time and thank the good lord that you got one of the rifles built on wed. instead of Mon.(HA)
Pat <mrbullet@hotmail.com>
USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 04:16:21 (ZULU) 
Bruce,

On the hearing protection. I can't give you details on the different dB levels but my personal preference is foam plugs. They have great attenuation, fit almost anyone, don't get in the way and weigh next to nothing. Also(and most important to me) they won't contribute to the possibility of developing a bad spot weld (since regular headsets can get in the way of your cheek and stock) This is just a personal prefernce but you know the old rule "Shoot in practice what you shoot in the field". Best of all though, they're dirt cheap :-)

Just my two cents.
Ralf H <sledghamr@aol.com>
Sea, WA, USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 05:54:54 (ZULU) 


Bruce: The guys at the trap range had some very nice molded earplugs from the audiologist. A few phone calls should find one that do the work for you. There may be other options through the audiologist like the Walker's Game Ear, expensive. I've been wearing soft foam plugs under Peltor Tac 6's. The amplifier increases the volume enough to hear trough the plugs and shuts off during report.
Radar-90th 0MMS <R.va@worldnet.att.net>
Micanopy Beach, FL, USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 05:56:48 (ZULU) 
Worried about being seen by nightvision, this is whats next inline, room temperature thermal. Current Thermal requires a cooler and a scanning mirror both of which make noise. This new system will be small, light and quiet. It would also make a good scope for a specialised system. This may be part of the new rifle system the army is working on. You know all fancy, uses lots of batterys, and requires no real live fire training but costs $20,000 copy plus. The military BDUs are treated to help block infra-red but you have to dryclean them. Who drycleans BDUs(I may be wrong on this BDU stuff)? I saw the price on a Texas Instruments thermal system two or more years ago at $8000 with a 360 degree tilt and pan mechanism for the marine market. The new one should be cheaper in rate production.
 

Radar-90th 0MMS <R.va@worldnet.att.net>
Micanopy Beach, FL, USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 06:48:43 (ZULU) 


Forgot the link. Here it is.
Radar-90th 0MMS <R.va@worldnet.att.net>
Micanopy Beach, FL, USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 06:53:18 (ZULU) 
Finally
Lockheed Martin Infra-Red <R.va@worldnet.att.net>
USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 06:57:59 (ZULU) 
Try This www.lmco.com/lmiris/Uncooled.htm or click on my name I think. I'm new to this please excuse me.
Radar-90th 0MMS <R.va@worldnet.att.net>
USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 07:04:38 (ZULU) 
PeteR:

You ask why do I assume that this gun will not shoot out of the box without tweaking. Well, the answer is that I dont. However, there are some fundamental rules about just what it takes to make a rifle not only accurate, but *consistantly* accurate. One of the things discovered over the years is that only rarely is it a good thing to have the stock contacting the barrel, especialy a barrel of substantial mass and with good metalurgy. Sometimes, very light barrels or that are prone to stringing as they heat up are bedded with a bit of upward pressure at the forend tip and this can help groups a great deal, but the problem is that this complicates the factors that regulate barrel harmonics. In other words, you have just added something that can shrink, expand, warp or otherwise fail and have the rifle shooting "somewhere else", as opposed to just having to worry about the barrel and its properties.

Besides, in the case of my 700P it is not an intentional, planned and calculated contact point. Its just plain poorly fitted.

I know I am going to relive the barrel channel and at least look at cleaning up the bedding block/reciever interface a bit in the morning.
*Then* I'm going to just shoot it. If is does good then I wont mess with the bedding block any further. Othewise, I will have to look at other options.
 

-Tom
 
 

Tom Simpson <bullet45@usit.net>
Columbia, SC, USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 07:13:33 (ZULU) 


My customer wanted a "pretty" varmint rifle so I put a new 700 VS-LH in a 700BDL stock. Hogged out the barrel channel to accept the heavy barrel and tried it with a little up pressure at the tip of the stock. Couldn't get enough down elevation out of the scope this way and since I was getting tired of sanding on that bloody plastic stock tip, I put a shim under the recoil lug. Instant free float barrel and plenty of down elevation. Is this an OK practice or should I keep working on the stock? In the original synthetic stock it would only group around 1.5" @ 100 yds. Shoots about the same with the wood stock. Pretty bad for a .22-250 and 50 gr. Winchester Ballistic Silvertips in my estimation. Guess I should have tried it with my favorite handloadof 35 grains of H4895 behind a 55gr. Sierra SPBT..
Doc <docs@fidnet.com>
The Ozark boonies, MO, USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 07:21:15 (ZULU) 
Hello,
I am working on a little project which I might take comercial if there is sufficient interest and success and I need a little information and some input. I need to talk to any of you that have experimented with Shooting heavier than "normal" bullets in .308 in particular I would like to know the rifling twist rate you used and what you would like to see as a offering. if anyone has information or an interest in maybe helping me test some idea's please e-mail me.
I do hope that this is not an afront to the roster as a "comercial" posting as I am only looking for some information. If this is not the place for this please just tell me.

Thanks guys
Grey <greywuuf@alaska.net>
Alaska, USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 08:34:47 (ZULU) 


PeteR,
You wrote:
>What are the accuracy concerns I missed other than a high spot or pressure spot in the barrel channel?

snipped……"There was some thin layers of stock material overlaying the first 1/8" of the aluminum bearing surface." -Tom This would bother me.
 

>…..moly tip for the recoil lug though, how often does it hafta be done?

During installation and maintenance. Moly rubbed onto the back side of the recoil mortise will remain there. Very tenacious stuff. Does it make a provable difference. I don't know, but lubing this surface makes sense to me if indeed the lug does work a little.
 

>#3 How do I weld a detachable magazine to my action?

The part about the magazine is "general" info. One has to look over his particular situation and adopt the basic principles. The magazine should not hinder action flexing.

The part about case wall variations was included mainly as food for thought. Knowing about this phenomenon one can either sort out particularly bad cases, or mark case rims with a notch. One benchrester proved that case wall variations do not matter, but then his chamber/case/throat situation is different than most people's.
 

As an aside. The average shooter looks at his cartridges and assumes they are straight. Put them on a concentricity checker and he'll be shocked at how bad they are. Even Federal Match BTW. Everything contributes to "system accuracy", and it is easy to see how sometimes zigs compensate for zags. Even the wind will sometimes blow an errant shot into a group. Testing a rifle with 10-shot groups will pretty much rule out luck and will deliver the facts.

Good shooting,
Ron N.

Ron N. <rcn8@accnorwalk.com>
USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 09:42:33 (ZULU) 


Hey fellow gun nuts! I have only recently discovered this site and am glad to find others with similar interest. I spent time in the Canoe Club west coast and wound up in the Mid east. Yea so what I know, but I did spend time toting a match grade M1A1. After this most of my time is spent playing with different guns and loads as I am not in the profession of death dealing. If something comes up I can add insight to I will, so far most of the advice I've seen has been on the money. I will say I have a painted Rem. and haven't regreted it. Just be sure to keep the important stuff covered and don't be afraid to talk with local archery shops. They take hiding fairly serious. Happy Hunting!
nate <mag338@earthlink.com>
ca, USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 10:49:50 (ZULU) 
PeteR...

You asked... "Do I have to align my cases in the chamber during the Carlos Match in October. How do I do this during the Match #6 Moving targets, Stress event Match #7, or the High angle shots match #9?"

...YES, every single one, while Al.O, Mike (the Un-Dude), me, Scott, and 55 others are loadin' as fast as we can, and bangin' and clangin'!! (They're making special sheep targets for you know who!!)

On the H-S stock thing, my PSS is just dropped into the stock, and after a few years, I can see the high spots, though the gun will put 10 rounds of GM into .5" to .6" from a CCB. The Winchester M70/V's have a similar stock from H-S, but they also bed it in with a "Hot glass", a thermal bedding compound, and the fit is tighter.
Which is why the Winchesters will outshoot the Rems everytime (Jeeze, just kidding, guys). Any of the current Win and Rem HB's will shoot around .5" when they're cleaned up, trigger adjusted, and had a few rounds through them.

We all like a rifle that shoots well, and though there are similarities between bench guns, service match guns, and tactical/sniper guns.. (they all came from the same womb), the tactical/sniper guys have slightly different needs.
The bench guys just need to be somewhere on the target, as long as their group is the smallest. Service match shooters get sighter/(fowler) shots to settle in, and their "winning" is the sum of 50, 60, 80, or more rounds...

We don't need the smallest group, but we need to be "on target" with the first round "EVERY TIME"... we shoot a one round match. We don't get sighters, or fowlers, and we don't shoot our "matches" at the same distance each time.

More than concentric case necks, we need plain jane, second class target rifles, that are 110% repeatable, that don't have "Personalities", or glitchy qurks. That come apart for cleaning or trigger work, and go back together, still on zero.

It is easy to loose sight of the overall gun when we pick apart the details.

Now where is my case neck lathe... I'll get that Wascally PeteR at Carlos II.
 

Pablito <condor@mags.net>
USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 12:07:15 (ZULU) 


Lotta talk about thermals of late.
As far as ducking them goes, good luck. Terrain is about the only option. I suppose you could try lining your ghillie with a mylar blanket. 'Course, you will die of heat exaustion in about 500m. The modern systems have the resolution to pick up just a face a fair distance out. Just watch COPs on TV, or any nightly newscast from a major city. And there will only be more of them as time passes. I have read in popular science magazine that Caddilac plans to put a room temperature thermal camera behind the grill in their top cars, and a screen in the dash. Total option cost, around $3000 last I heard.
There is one weakness all these systems share though, and that is snuffy behind the sight.
Ed <Ed_Engler@softhome.net>
CP Greaves, rok - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 12:13:20 (ZULU) 
Pablito/Ron/Pat

Thanks for the clarification of my "burning" questions guys!

They made things a lot cooler for me this morning, I knew that I could hook ya for the info. :-)
 

Tom,

Sounds like you have the right approach figured out already let us know how it works out, It might make a great Hot Tips & Cold SHots along with Rons posting huh?

All this talk of sheep targets, RIG parties, and Smokie Hats is begining to make me wonder if I made the right choice in a .308 for the Carlos match..............
 

Chao

peteR <PNGREIFF@AOL.COM>
BIG CITY, BY-GAWD, USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 14:08:02 (ZULU) 


Doc-

I would consider your Rem 700 instant free-float by shimming under the recoil lug idea to be a good one for quick experimetation purposes but it dosent strike me a a permanent fix.

Heh...reminds me a just a bit of one of the guys that taught me how to glass a rifle...he got in a Winchester M70 in .458 for some dude that was going to South Africa. It came in a wooden stock and the guy wanted it in a synthetic, so the gunsmith I was sorta apprenticing under ordered in a Bell and Carlson. After hogging out most of the fiberglas shell lining the barrel channel, he procedes to full-length glas it in using some of the first Acraglas Gel than came on the market. Welp, only problem is that his inletting T-screws are for the pre-64 guns and thus the rear screw bottomed out in the post-64s blind rear action screw hole. He didnt notice this and when it cured, the whole rear of the action was sticking up in the air with big gaps exposing the trigger mecanisim. I was sure that he was going to route it back out and reglas it, but instead he mixed up some Gel with some black pigment and patched the holes and then contoured it into the linse of the pistol grip, I didnt know much then but I knew this wasent quite right, and on a dangerous game gun, too! I'm glad I didnt learn everything from him. :)
 

700P update: I have now routed out the forend enough to where it passes the dollar bill test, cleaned up the stock material on the bedding block and have both action screws torqued at 65 inch/lbs. (thanks guys!)I have also broken the Holy Seals on the trigger adjustments and taken it down to a nice, crisp 2.5 lb. pull that will take a six inch drop to thin carpeting on either end and violent bolt manipulaion without -ing. Seems like a nice place to start. Question: what is the Conventional Wisdom on the minimumn safe trigger pull on the factory 700? I have never owned one myself and I was always conservative with customers guns.
 

I home to get on a range today. Thanks again, y'all. :)
 

-Tom
Tom Simpson <bullet45@usit.net>
Columbia, SC, USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 17:34:03 (ZULU) 


Hey Tom...
Sounds like that 700 is coming along. I have several Remington standard trigger assemblies that are around 24-26 oz's. They hold the adjustment, have never failed, and some are fairly old, and seen many rounds through them. You could probably go down to 16 oz's, but I think at that weight, it would be much wiser to invest in a Jewel, or Shillen, as the Rem standard is not a "Fine" trigger... they cost about $15 to $18 to make.

I'll send you a file be e-mail on adjusting them...
 

Pablito <condor@mags.net>
USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 19:03:55 (ZULU) 


TorF:

A freind and fellow shooter bought some Vithavouri powder a while back. He tells me it is VV 24N64. He says he found info. about loading for .243 Winchester. He wants to know if it would work in 6.5mm/08 with the 140 gr. class bullets. The 260 rem (6.5mm/08) has be come a very popular round in the tactical matches here in Ga. and Ala. to be sure.

This man, Hook Boutin, has 8 lbs. of 24N64 and he is a big fan of the 6.5mm/08. He wants to load the 140 gr bullets with this powder if it is appropriate. He and Tony Sporri have built several tactical style rifles chambered for this round. More and more are wanting this chambering.

Anyway, please let me know if this powder is good for the 6.5/08. He asked me to find out. Thanks....

Pat:

Did you get my email the other day? Listen, I loaded the 142 match kings with 44.0 gr. N160 and shot them in the match at Ft. Benning, yesterday. The ranges were 100, 200, and 300 yds; with 10 shots at ea. range. Shot the best score I've ever done. Do try the 142s with N160.

Jeff A.
 

Jeff A. <d1k2l3@aol.com>
Smyrna, Ga, USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 22:37:20 (ZULU) 


Hello R.Va and Ed:

Thanks for your input on nightvision detection.

I checked out that link on roomtemp IR. Amazing technology.

Do you gentlemen know if GoreTex increases exposure, with all its weatherproof lamination.

This scent-lock fabric, now used by hunters, may be a good counter-measure. It's either carbon or charcoal material. I have yet to put the theory to the test. When you think about it: scent is somewhat related to heat. It you can suppress the scent, then perhaps the heat you give off is reduced too. The manufacturer didn't have a clue about this. Like you say though, Ed. It may be a bit too toasty within.

Regards
 
 
 
 
 

M Leggett <M_Leggett@ibm.net>
USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 22:49:06 (ZULU) 


Before I heard of chemical warfare suits for hunting I figured the charcoal lining could stop a fart cold.
Radar-90th 0MMS <R.va@worldnet.att.net>
Micanopy Beach, FL, USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 23:24:28 (ZULU) 
Doc, I wouldn't shim the bottom of the recoil lug. As a matter of fact I have had better luck with the bottom of the lug not touching anything. I use the reciever and rear inch of bbl for nedding. If the lug touches you might end up with that as your primary bedding area and your rifle will not be consistent.

Pete, still have not uncorked that Varget. IMR 4064 is still punching small groups and I can't bring myself to start over.

Well I have Old Dogs rifle shooting to well for any lawyer but hell I can't think of an excuse to not ship it to him, so off it goes Monday.

Al, I've been using the binoculars to spy on bad guys for the last couple of days. The more I use them the more I like them.

Gooch, I made your sling. I will ship it Monday.

Darren, get your head and body closer to the ground and you will start shooting smaller groups. Use that towel trick I showed you or make a bean bag for the rear. Buy case lots of ammo once you find something that works.

Guys the higher you get off the ground the less stable you are. Let the rifle and the bags do most of the work for you.

I have tested Remingtons latest batch of 168 grain match 308. They must have changed something because this stuff shoots very well. Tried some two years ago and it stunk up the range

Latest class went well. Slings are almost caught up with(in time to start on next orders)

Mike the UnDude
Mike M <DMMDNLN@AOL.COM>
Calif, USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 23:25:08 (ZULU) 


Heeee's back! Survived another SOS week. PeteR, picked up a good oldies station 96.5 fm out of Fayetteville. Couldn't find a shop from here to the coast with and Federal GM. Now definetly thinking reloading.
Would very much enjoy an archive CD. Any way to put a word search engine in it?
A worn out Bolt, out
Bolt <mbolt34547@aol.com>
USA - Sunday, April 25, 1999 at 23:38:03 (ZULU) 
Ok guys. I don't mean to beat a dead horse here, but I'm getting a little worried here about match ammo. Kind of like the sheep when PeteR comes around. ;-)
(Sorry man, had to throw that in. )

I gotta find some soon, like yesterday.

I know someone has this under their boonie hat out there reading the Roster.
PLEEEEEEEEEEEEASE. Pretty Please with Al O. on top.
Someone just point this Tennessee hill-billy in the right direction and I'll take it from there.

I'll even consider trading my current girl-friend for the information.
(WARNING!!! She's from Chicago, so be warned with trade.)
NO REFUNDS.
 
 

D. West <westforce@juno.com>
about to move, from IL., USA - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 02:48:30 (ZULU) 


Oh, I forgot to tell ya-all the good news.
Guess who's about to become the new (cop) on the Roster????

HUMMMmmmmmmmm.......... ;-)
 
 

D.W. <same-thing>
USA - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 02:51:34 (ZULU) 


On match ammo try http://www.outdoorguides.com/outdoor/rifleamu.htm. Lemme know how it goes.

Gooch
gooch <pte007901@mail.wvnet.edu>
USA - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 03:26:42 (ZULU) 


D. West,
Talked with Graf & Sons, Inc. in Mexico, MO on Friday and they had Federal GM .308 in stock, both 168 and 175, for $14.72/box or $368 a case. That's their wholesale cash price to dealers. Their info number is (573) 581-2266 and their order number is (800) 531-2666. I'm not sure if you have to be a dealer to do business with them.
Doc <docs@fidnet.com>
The wet Ozark boonies, MO, USA - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 03:26:57 (ZULU) 
Jeff,
I didn't get your e.mail. would you try it again I would appreciate it. I went to the range today with the 260VLS and of course it was blowing 20mph and starting to sprinkle but I thought the hell with it and stayed for a couple of hours and at least got through the break in process. The first group after sighting in went into .765 with the "Old" style AMAX and N140, cleaning after every shot, so I didn't think that was to bad. The next group was the new AMAX 140s and they went into a .478 cleaning after the first three. This same load produced a couple of .6s also. I shot one load with Varget and 142s but had a flyer. I was shooting the brass I had "Culled"that didn't fall into the right weight for the other rifle so this could have been some of the problems I had with a few unexplained flyers or it could have been me or the gun settling in. All in all it wasn't to bad for what I had expected I am still not sure about the barrel I could still feel the "Bump" but it didnt seem to be as pronounced as before, so who knows as long as it will shoot I wont worry about it, it sure has a nice smooth barrel after break in and cleaned up nice. Your right on the popularity of the 260 & 6.5x08 when more people find out how they shoot and the ballistics to recoil factor it will be the "New" kid on the block!!

To all,
To those of you who followed the 3.5x10LR problem and who wrote with suggestions, there is a problem!!!! I borrowed a 6.5x20 leupold and did "NOT" have any of the problems I was having with the LRs I will call Leupold tomorrw and find out what the deal is. I have two of them and they are both doing it and my shooting buddy just bought a new one and he said he is having about the same problem but thought it might be his eyes until he shot his other rifle with a 4.5x14 and the 100yd paster was clear and sharp. I can't believe the luck I have!!! Maybe its because my last name is "Murphy".......Nah.
Pat <mrbullet@hotmail.com>
USA - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 03:40:00 (ZULU) 


Remington 700P update: DISASTER!

After an initial ten rounds of (bang!)(patch)(patch)(brush)(brush)(brush)(brush)(patch)(patch)(bang!)using some notoriouly crappy Argentine military ball, I was ready to shoot my first official groups "for record". I am thinking to myself, "Hmmmm...a one inch group at 35 yards with the AFN ball. Oh, well. That stuff is garbage, after all. Still, I would think it would do a bit better at 35 yards..."

So I move to 100 yards and break out the match ammo, a known good handload with the 168 MK, 42.5 gr. ACC 25250 in weight-segregated LC Match cases, all trimmed, trued and good to go.

I know I am in trouble when the first two shots were seperated by six inches. I finish the string of five and clean the barrel again. The rest of the group is not much better, clustering around the first hole in a 3 MOA circle. Uh, oh. Not a good start.

As I continue to shoot, I, the rifle or both get better, but not enough better. The last of four groups is seven rounds into 2.25 MOA.

Puzzled, I pull the bolt again and look up the bore. Nothing funny there. So, if it aint the breech end...

I look at the muzzle and am most unhappy with whence I see: instead of a nice, even 45 degree or so bevel centered around the muzzle, the bevel describes an arch aroung the bottom 50% of the muzzle while the bore at the top terminates with a nice, sharp 90 degree corner to the face of the barrel. In simple terms, the crown is completly f**ked up on my brand-new and rather expensive precison rifle direct from the from the factory! I could have done a better job with a rusty hacksaw and a dull drill bit!
 

So now I suppose I either have to ship it back to Remington (any idea of an ETA for return?) or try and redo it by hand. I dont realy have the proper tooling to do the job to my satisfaction unless I do the old electric drill and brass roundhead screw trick. This is one of those times I realy, realy wish I had a lathe!
 

Yaknow, Plan A was to get a heavy barreled Howa action and build it up in a McMillan stock, but I couldnt get one and the Remington was avialble localy in town. I am begining to wish I had ordered in *any* Howa action, trashed the factory barrel and built it from the grownd up. I expect that this is what I will do next time, for sure.
 

-Tom
Disgusted in Columbia
 
 

Tom Simpson <bullet45@usit.net>
Columbia, SC, USA - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 06:09:43 (ZULU) 


O.K. Give me hell if you want, but what is the advantage of the 6.5-08 over the 6.5X55? I checked the volume of a PMC 6.5X55 and the volume of a Rem. .308 case and found a skosh more vol. available in the Swede case. I used H2O up to the neck/shoulder junction and measured with a 12 ml syringe.

No, I'm not trying to start something, I really do not know. You may e-mail me off-line, or clue me in on the roster.

(Please, be gentle...?)

Thanks,
Dennis
dennis <usmcspud@aol.com>
merced, ca, USA - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 06:45:46 (ZULU) 


To Jeff A:

I'm not familiar with the VV 24N64. It's probably listed in VV's or Lapua's reloadingmanual. I don't have them in front of me now. I'm working... (It may be a powder for .50BMG )

To Dennis, re. 6.5X55 vs. .260rem.

The .260 fit in a Rem700SA wich is the "standard" rifle in the US.

In a longer action and due to the supply of quality 6.5X55 matchammo the .260 doesn't stand a chance in Scandinavia. Even .308 matchammo are outperformed and outnumbered by the 6.5X55. The Norma .308 Black Diamond-ammo mentioned earlier in the roster do not win ANY competitions in Norway.

Take a look at this listing from Raufoss (.50BMG multipurpose inventor/manufacturer):

http://www.dfs.no/salg/ammo.htm

Lapua and Norma have similar listings.

PS: It's quite fun to see Jeff A. ending up with a standard 6.5X55 load in his .260rem, 142gr bullet 44gr.VV N160 :-)
 
 

TorF <tor.fleime@aftenposten.no>
Oslo, Norway - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 08:32:12 (ZULU) 


PeteR - Thanks for the Black Hills Info.

To All - I needed some ammo to go to Mineral Wells,Tx. for a shoot in the second week of May. I started looking in March and I had to settle on Cabelas shooting catalog. I bought 200 rounds of the 175 Black Hills moly. I could not find anyone with a case of the 175gr match - Federal or otherwise.

Gooch - How does the Storm Mountain schedule look for next year? I would sure like to come up and shoot with you guys.

Stay safe
Brent
 

Brent <koldbore@hotmail.com>
Shreveport, Louisiana, USA - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 08:34:03 (ZULU) 


CORN-gratulations Darrell! Andria and I know that this is something which you have wanted. Kinda scarry - though. Darrell with a gun in his hand. What did Mikey's mom say to him. Be careful, don't shoot your eye out. Congrats from the both of us! Let me know if yo' found any ammo. The Israli IMI Match ammo is supposed to be pretty good stuff as is the moly Black Hills ammo. I can vouch for that stuff. Really really good. How did you make out with MidSouth Shooters Supply. Did they have any?

al
Al OStapowicz <aaostapowicz@nls.net>
OOOOOO's and AAAAAHHHHH's from the Great State of Northeast, Ohio, USA - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 09:19:56 (ZULU) 


CORN-gratulations Darrell! Andria and I know that this is something which you have wanted. Kinda scarry - though. Darrell with a gun in his hand. What did Mikey's mom say to him. Be careful, don't shoot your eye out. Congrats from the both of us! Let me know if yo' found any ammo. The Israli IMI Match ammo is supposed to be pretty good stuff as is the moly Black Hills ammo. I can vouch for that stuff. Really really good. How did you make out with MidSouth Shooters Supply. Did they have any?

al
Al OStapowicz <aaostapowicz@nls.net>
OOOOOO's and AAAAAHHHHH's from the Great State of Northeast, Ohio, USA - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 09:20:39 (ZULU) 


Darrell-Darrell,

Congrats Dude! The fun has just started..............

Todays range qualification for me [AGAIN? :-)]and I'll pass on some of that old salt s^&T/ that I was blessed with: "Shoot each round like its your last one!"

Torf,
The only good cartridge to come from Sweden was the 36Dx24x36IB
(Improved Bikini) EVERYBODY knows that dude! ;-)

Well (gulp) ofta the range again...............
 

Chao (and POW!)
 
 
 

peteR <PNGREIFF@AOL.COM>
bIG cITY, bY-gAWD, USA - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 11:47:33 (ZULU) 


Hey TorF...

I went to that site you recomended...

http://www.dfs.no/salg/ammo.htm

... and man!!! they need a spell checker REAL BAD!!
 

Pablito <condor@mags.net>
USA - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 12:38:20 (ZULU) 


To all:

Does anyone have a detailed list (including phone numbers, P.O.C., and website URLs) for Tapered bases fro Remington 700 LONG Action?!?

I've tried Badger Ordanance but they are VERY difficult to contact and do business with.

Thanks in advance to all.
Brian M. <slapsho7@hotmail.com>
Irvine, CA, USA - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 13:04:35 (ZULU) 


Brownells has a 45 degree muzzle chamfering tool with t-handle, pilot and cutters. The price for the cutter, pilot and handle is about $60 for one caliber. They also have a lap set to finish it off for about $35. Anybody used one?
Bolt <mbolt34547@aol.com>
USA - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 13:10:50 (ZULU) 
Bolt,
The muzzle chamfering tool works just fine; but I haven't used the lap set.
Doc <docs@fidnet.com>
The foggy Ozark boonies, MO, USA - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 15:14:42 (ZULU) 
Does anyone know who makes the best sniper trigger for the AR-15?
Is it adjustable, is it a two stage? Any comments would be appreciated. thanks.
NIcholas <hkmp5_2222@yahoo.com>
Salt lake, Utah, USA - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 15:50:01 (ZULU) 
Nicholas: On the AR15 trigger, Bill Wylde installed a Krieger-Milazzo trigger on the gun he built for me. The trigger is a two stage, and, like the rest of the gun, functions perfectly. Whether this setup qualifies as a "sniper" trigger, I don't know. A coyote at about 350-375 hated it saturday:)
 

Bruce
Bruce <Bruce@mannlawfirm.com>
USA - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 16:11:41 (ZULU) 


Pablito,

Re: Spell checker.

So does this list! :-D
Ralf H <sledghamr@ao.com>
Sea, WA, USA - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 16:16:11 (ZULU) 


Gooch: yes, that was the video I saw. It only featured you discussing the M14 vs. the M16 weapon systems. No female recruits, no RIG grease.

Bruce: I like the Peltor Shotgunner 6 earmuffs. They are tapered at the bottom to allow you to shoot from a stock and still get a good cheek weld.

B. Melick <tmelick@monbar.com>
New Orleans, LA, USA - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 16:42:16 (ZULU) 


Ralf...
We kep askinn Marius fore a spele checkir fore thes syte butt he dont wanna putt onne intwo it!!

Yu don spele yur e-male adress so gud ether, it caim bak

Pablito
Pablito
USA - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 17:06:56 (ZULU) 


For match ammo and brass try Http://www.montana.com/hsm/
if that address dosen't work let me know.
Mike Roy <Mikeroyexc@aol.com>
Florence, MT, USA - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 17:33:04 (ZULU) 
Need some comments .... Am shooting really nice groups with a handload, not bad with factory match either. HOWEVER ... cannot load the handloads in magazine and would really prefer shooting those in Oct. @ Storm Mtn. Does the course conditions allow single loading or do you need to have rounds in the mag ?? Yes its a Rem 700/308 ... have thought of modifying the mag area... like maybe devconing the area and taking out the steel insert. Who has done that/tried it OR has done the Storm Mtn routine and would shed some light !
Thanks
Out Here
Will <willadams@mindspring.com>
Humid, getting warm, AL, USA - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 21:05:29 (ZULU) 
Gentlemen,
This is only my second time posting here so please bear with me. I had posted back in November about breaking in my new Rem Poice DM and I would like to thank everyone, especially Rick for the great info. Now that school's almost out and it's getting warmer it looks like I'm FINALLY going to get to shoot the derned thang. My question is this, I'm about to make a rather large order from Sinclair for some breaking-in goodies and wanted to know if anyone had any good advice as to what to get (or what not to). So far here's my list...
Bore Tech rod
Dewey punch and Parker-Hale style jags
Sinclair rod guide and solvent port
Shooters' Choice
Sweet's 7.62
JB Bore Cleaner
Kroil (don't see it many places and I heard it's good-what the hell)
Sinclair bolt grease
Patches
Sinclair Action Cleaning Tool Kit (Sounds like a good idea)
There you have it, if there are any suggestions PLEASE mail me or post. One more thing, Rick-You pointed out that a new Remington already has 60 rounds through it and they didn't clean between, before or after firing. What do you (or anyone else) think of using JB in the initial pre-firing cleaning? I'm just paranoid that I'll f*** it up. Thanks a million.
P.S. I checked out the "hot tips, cold shots" already and didn't see too much on this topic, otherwise I wouldn't have posted.
Wanting to do it right the first time-
RichS
Rich S <RS1441@aol.com>
Baltimore, MD, USA - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 21:18:51 (ZULU) 
Hi Guys,
What barrel length is the best for 308 Rem M-700 RIFLE it will mount a Suppressor two point mount, info I have is most seem to cut barrel to 18.5 to 20 inches.I would like to use a longer barrel and don,t mind the extra weight and length penialities, does anyone have exprence with lengths longer than 20.

Thanks Chris 

Chris <cafarr@excite.com>
NZ - Monday, April 26, 1999 at 21:49:53 (ZULU)