Sniper Country Duty Roster

April 15, 2001 - April 23, 2001



Bravo,

I just have one more thing to say about your 'JB' post to me.

You said:

>I've caught that too much is a bad thing, but it's still hard for me to believe someone could grind away enough barrel to actually make a difference with the stuff.

Do you realize the tolerances that I strive to keep on the bore and groove dimensions? hahahh... I hold a +0.0003", that's three tenths, 3 ten thousandths of an inch on the bore diameter, and a -0.0003" on the groove diameter. That would not be considered a cat hair, I've measured 'em, they run 0.008" or more, depending on the cat. Since we are talking about a circular surface, you could actually say my tolerances are 0.00015" per side. I keep these tolerance TO make a difference in the performance of the barrel and rifle. When anything abrasive is pushed thru the barrel after it leaves me and I hear about it, I throw up my hands and ask myself 'why in the hell do I bother with these tight dimensions!!' Use that JB to polish your pet rock or something.

later
 

JR <jr_rcsd@hotmail.com>
rapid city, sd, USA - Sunday, April 15, 2001 at 00:01:39 (ZULU) (your host address: 208.34.14.24)


Pablito - intro write up.

Okay dude - just so you'd quichyer whinin' I put a link to your write up on the main page - so that newbies and old salts can get a quick intro/refresher course...

Ken :)

Ken Hunter <hunterkr@riflemen.net>
Nokesville, Va, USA - Sunday, April 15, 2001 at 02:38:43 (ZULU) (your host address: 207.233.164.10)


One other thing, I found something of interest about a sniper rifle weight from the above article. On page 45, third column, fourth line from the bottom, "Until it reaches eighteen pounds -- a sniper rifle is not overly heavy, and we should not sacrifice accuracy or durability for a comfortable carry." <<<<<

Maybe full up,loaded, with suppressor and Simrad. Otherwise I think the good colonel spent too much time on the rifle team on the east coast and not enough time in the grunt units out at Pendleton or Bridgeport. I like what Col Chandler writes, I had his books signed when I was stationed at Lejeune. I think he's done good things for the USMC snipers. But he's a commissioned officer, and as such I really don't think he has an operator's view of the matter. Do we want to go the opposite extreme and have rifles that weigh nothing? No, a solid rifle(perhaps 12.5-14.5lbs) adds stability when you're huffing and puffing because you just humped up a hill with 100+lbs of crap. But I'd rather have a 13.5lbs rifle and an extra 3qts of water, than a 18.5lb rifle. I'm going to shoot them equally well. I don't think there's going to be any problems with lack of durability on a 13.5lb rifle. There is no good reason to add weight just for weight's sake.

Those people who think that the 260Rem(6.5-08) doesn't have the snot for 1000yds had better talk to Boots Obermeyer, as he regularly kicks everybody's ass with one. They are better than the 308 that's for sure, and no one seems to have problems with that cartridge at 1000yds. Is it a 6.5-284? No, but it'll surely do the job if you will. Semper Fidelis....
 

Ken M <target1371@aol.com>
IL, USA - Sunday, April 15, 2001 at 04:01:40 (ZULU) (your host address: 24.4.253.164)


Trigger Guards:

I have a great deal of respect for Norm Chandler and Company. One thing I am sure of is that they do whatever they can to build the best rifle they know how using the best materials and craftsmanship available, and they belive what they do in order to achieve that end is nesicery. However, I do wonder sometimes if they are not takibg their good ideas and carrying them a bit too far. As a for-instance, most everybody else in the world gets by using one of several known-good bedding compounds, like Devcon Aluminum, Bisonite, or perhaps the newer Brownells Steel Bed. I was a Devcon Aluminum man for many years but have more recently become enamored with MarineTex. But what do the Chandlers use? Devcon Titianium, the most expendive crap you can get, and which I can see no advantage in using for this application (unless you plan to low-crawl through an acid vat or something). I have been meaning to ask him the why of this, but havent seen him in a couple of years. Perhaps he has a great reason.

In the same vein, I have to wonder if I realy, realy have to tie up half a pound of mass and several hundred dollars of hard-to-come-by moolah to solve the bottom metal problem. Yes, I am aware that the can crack out or otherwise fail when you apply the nominal 65 inch-lbs of torque. Every time I torque mine, I get nervous.

I am one of those sad souls that got hung with a 700 PS DM gun, and me and that cheesy-ass magazine arrangement do not get along all that well. So, I intend at some point to kill both of these birds with one stone, hopefully the next time I tear the gun down for some reason. The trigger guard is to be ditched and replaced by a $15 steel ADL replacement guard from Brownells. The front is taken care of by glassing in a lathe-turned escuchion made from steel. That leaves the magazine to be taken care of. I happen to have a couple of damaged M14 mag tubes (a home-grown demil job involving a pickax) hanging around that could be cut down to 8 rounds or so. One of these could be fitted to the rifle and attached semi-permanently (lots easier than cutting the gun up to work with unmodified M14 mags). I have to be able to do better work than those monkeys up in Ilion.

Weight:

Um, 10-12 pounds sans optics and assessories seems plenty heavy enough to me, all things considered. A 700 PSS is in this range and hangs well offhand and is still reasonably quick for quick stuff. I really wonder about going much heavier than that. IMHO, of course.

JB:

I like the stuff, but then I do not own a superspecialpremium barrel with tolerances in the millimicron range, either. I have this Douglas Airgauged blank sitting on the shelf here, does that count? :-) What I have to work with right now is the freakin' Remington OEM tube on the 700 PSS, which gets the hell JB'd out of it every time it is shot. The alternative approaches to cleaning I have tried would take over a week to complete, and that tube could stand some polishing anyway, let me tell 'ya... :-)

From what I gather, the really nice tubes usually clean up so easily that only someone too impatient to be a sniper to begin with would want to rush the process further.

Most intriguing of all: the new FN (aka Winchester) sniper rifle with chrome bore. I like these guys way of thinking.

UnDude:

By way of clarification, I like TAR better than TS as it was, not as it could have been. A good, `00% tactical mag would be nice, but it takes more than a pretty color cover to make that happen. Gotta have writers writing about stuff that the custmer cares about, and that was not happening. Truthfully, I never thought that TS would fly from the outset, given both the limited scope and nature of the market. I used to work in the retail gun trade, and, frankly, folks such as those that inhabit this site make lousy customers for anybody but a specialized business. You (we) typicaly buy a few things either one at a time or in large volumes and usually sniff out the one or two cheapest sources for it on the planet, bypassing the higher markup outlets. Those handfull of sources cannot support a magazine, particulary when you factor the impact of the web and this site into the equasion. I already have Sinclair, Brownells, O.K. Webber, all those peole bookmarked. Ii I did not, then twenty people here will let me know within an hour of posting a request. Whats an ad in TS got left to tell me at this point?
 

-Tom
Tom Simpson <bullet@sc.rr.com>
Colatown, SC, USA - Sunday, April 15, 2001 at 04:25:21 (ZULU) (your host address: 24.88.84.155)


Darren...

I was looking into buying a steel floorplate for my M24 clone, but was scared off by the $300 or so pricetag. I just bought one of John Baier's floorplates. Very nice, and at $140 each, I can buy two. He can be found at Tactical Stocks and Supplies: http://64.226.176.47/

I just shot my first 3 gun competition today... boy do I need some work.

Tim
Gizmo <ssn581@teleport.com>
Beavercreek, OR, USA - Sunday, April 15, 2001 at 07:09:04 (ZULU) (your host address: 216.26.62.88)


Ken M wrote:
"No, a solid rifle(perhaps 12.5-14.5lbs) adds stability when you're huffing and puffing because you just humped up a hill with 100+lbs of crap. But I'd rather have a 13.5lbs rifle and an extra 3qts of water, than a 18.5lb rifle. I'm going to shoot them equally well. I don't think there's going to be any problems with lack of durability on a 13.5lb rifle. There is no good reason to add weight just for weight's sake."
 
 

AMEN KEN!

A couple trips from the S/M tower to the slag pile, barn, and movers range, was all it took for me to have a massive reality check.
We were "daytripping" with almost nothing for a payload too!

The 700LTR/M-3 rig Team Markwell/Hanson had looked pretty good after finishing the stalk and stress events. I still am trying to figure out how "Chainsaw" got that M-Fuddy.308Towed to the top???????????
 
 

peteR <PNGREIFF@AOL.COM>
BIG CITY, BY-GAWD, USA - Sunday, April 15, 2001 at 12:22:43 (ZULU) (your host address: 152.163.213.61)


Ref: Heavy Rifles

I proposed a lighter SWS a few months ago and go flamed to a extra well done condition.

Might there be a change in the weather here in Sniper Country?

Off to shoot Sporting Clays with the boy.

Out.
Kevin R. Mussack (Andy's Dad) <kmussack@aol.com>
Clifton Springs, New York, USA - Sunday, April 15, 2001 at 12:38:13 (ZULU) (your host address: 205.188.192.23)


Kevin(Andys Dad),
Quit'cher Whining and go Shoot! ;-)

Just got three more firesticks "for the kids" yesterday, when it rains it pours at the peteR home. Bet my ammo bills go up this summer............
 

Once again have a safe and Happy Easter!
 

peteR <PNGREIFF@AOL.COM>
"Wheres dat Wascally Clucking Wabbit?" in BIG CITY, BY-GAWD, USA - Sunday, April 15, 2001 at 13:40:43 (ZULU) (your host address: 205.188.200.27)


I am going to reposition the 2nd front swivel stud on the Rem700P several inches back from its current location. This will allow me to hook up the Undude's sling to the stock itself and not the bipod.

Is there anything special (brittleness, etc.) I need to know about tapping the stock? Besides not drilling into the barrel? :-)))
 

And a Happy Easter or Passover or Whatever to everyone!

Moe
Moe Mensale <mjmensale@aol.com>
Boca Raton, FL, USA - Sunday, April 15, 2001 at 14:29:16 (ZULU) (your host address: 205.188.195.43)


Foist off: the 260/6.5 Sir Wes/6.5 IMP. Don't know why anyone would work an Imp. If the 260 isn't enough for you, then there's the most under rated cartridge in America (I think) the 6.5 Swede. From my Swede (24" barrel) I can get the 140 grain Rem soft point "Kore-Lokt" bullet to go 2950 fps with NO PRESSURE SIGNS. I could go more, but ran out of case capacity. A better job of powder selection would do better, I'm sure, I was just using what I had on hand. After all, it WAS the darling of the 1000 yard shooters for quite some time. It's no 6.5 Sir Wes though, and I won't advertise it as such. The 284 case can handle (so I'm told) 3150+ fps with the Sierra 142 MK. In other words, the Swede is beginning to push and huff, where the 284 is just beginning to shine. That being said, Fed GMM for the Swede is about $10 per box normally. Factory supported. Can't say that about the IMP. Although, I personally don't care, 'cause I load ALL my ammo, with the exception of 22 rimfire, but why go to the extra headache of fireforming brass if it's not necessary?

JB: Dunno on this one. Geoff recommends JB or Iosso, and he's good enough to know if he's screwing something up. You gotta be doing SOMETHING right to be on the Palma 20 for 3 years! Here's my take on it, let me know if I'm off base. Back when our currency was based in precious metals, and pennies were copper, you could rub one long enough to get some color on your thumb. Not enough to polish the penny per-se, but several parts per billion/few parts per million. Isn't that the same thing you see on a patch when the JB's comes out grey/black? How much are we taking off the barrel, 0.0001"? 0.00001"? Personally, I'd like to know! I suppose the only REAL way to know would be to get a barrel, chop it in half, section the first half and examine it. Then run JB's down the other half of the bore for about a K of patches, then section it and take a look. Maybe airgauge or stargauge them before sectioning? Hey, this sounds like a GREAT pay-per article! Not that I'm doubting what you say there JR, I'm certainly no barrel maker! I just wonder why there's so many folks using it (and good shooting folks too, not dweebs like me) if it's truly deleterious to the barrel. Or is it just an easy answer of "it wears out the barrel, but nowhere nearly as fast as 5000 rounds will"?

Sproingfeld update (For you Alan ;-)) Could be it just needed lapping in or whatever since it came back from the cuss'em shop. The last 150 rounds have been jam-free (as in, without jam, not as in "no extra charge for the jams", which was the case the previous times). The ammo was all made at the same time on the Hornady progressive, so it's identical, I'm identical (HA!), I've only been using one Wilson mag, so it's identical. By logic, the ONLY thing that could have changed is the pistol or the environment, and the days have been about the same. Other than not cleaning it for the last 550 rounds (which, if anything, should make it LESS reliable), it's not been touched except to fire it. Now, someone want to explain that one to me? I'm at work, so I've got another 50 rounds for time to go home. I'm wondering if it's worth loading up another 500 at this point.
Boomhauer (Bravo) <Bravo762@yahoo.com>
Arlen, Texas, USA - Sunday, April 15, 2001 at 14:59:31 (ZULU) (your host address: 12.9.223.237)


Ref: Clay's Day

We're back,
Dad 32/50
Andy 24/50.......

A humbling experience.......

Fun with short black pumpguns and ghost ring sights.

Hey, it's trigger time.

Out.
Kevin R. Mussack (Andy's Dad) <kmussack@aol.com>
Clifton Springs, New York, USA - Sunday, April 15, 2001 at 16:08:03 (ZULU) (your host address: 205.188.200.181)


Anyone out in sniper country shooting a .338 Lapua Mag?
I have an unbarreled CZ 550 Magnum action with a 416 Rigby bolt face, begging to be built into something truly special.
Seems to me that not only could I build a fine long range Tactical shooter, but also, albeit heavy, An outstanding Elk, Moose, and Long range Sheep medicine rifle.
Anybody have the name of builders who can do the barrel and action work for me?
Respectfully,
Hans
Hans <lrayner@southwind.net>
USA - Sunday, April 15, 2001 at 16:09:47 (ZULU) (your host address: 206.252.188.143)
Dudes and dudets.

My partner and I are looking to sell TRGT. My partner is becoming a federal employee and I am swamped with my current range building contract. If anyone is SERIOUSLY interested contact me off this site via my private email.

18 pound sniper rifles.....Get a fricking grip. Too heavy. Another case of design by committee. Like getting a camel when we wanted a horse.

Gooch out
 

Kent Gooch <goochkw@riflemen.net>
USA - Sunday, April 15, 2001 at 16:35:36 (ZULU) (your host address: 209.214.53.27)


Bravo: If a 1911 won't run dirty, something's wrong. Keep it oiled at the rails, bushing and barrel link. A couple drops of CLP every couple hundred rounds goes a long way.

CDC' <criscurt@isu.edu>
USA - Sunday, April 15, 2001 at 17:41:57 (ZULU) (your host address: 134.50.253.13)


Hans: I think Shilen (the barrel makers) will still barrel, muzzlebrake, and headspace on your action, prices not unreasonable. I don't know how they stack up against other custom people. I'm about ready to send them an 09 mauser action to install a 25-06 on it, to see if they can get better performance that I can from my own custom attempts on that action. Don't know much about the CZ actions other than their good reputation.

But if precision is what you want, and you're sold on the 338 Lap Mag, (I shoot that, H-S Precision made riffle) and you want a long range target gun, you might want to look at the H-S Precision action, which is made for that caliber. They're about $700 for the action. I don't know that you'll be able to come up with a rifle that's light enough to be a hunter yet really good for long range work. If you do, let me know.

btw, some folks must be in awfully good condition to be willing to carry a nearly 19 lb rifle over hill and dale. Last deer season my 280 Remington (my only deer rifle) picked a bad time to get sick, so I had to lug my Rem PSS tactical around, 13 lbs, with a heavy long range Leo. Neva agin. Of course, I'm on the wrong side of the proverbial hill. Yep, I had not a shot longer than 70 yards...
doug <doug@intertrust.com>
USA - Sunday, April 15, 2001 at 18:05:33 (ZULU) (your host address: 198.3.163.3)


Sir Wes, Gent's...........

Well appears "The Beast", passed the test......
It shoots much better than me.
Seems the 1-11, and the fav 44.0 Vget, 175's do work very well together.
Didn't seem to get the 1k "Wander", I have been seeing with my 1-12, and the 175's.
Also, the tube is tight, picked up an additional 53fps over the 1-12, running the Lap's @ 2713.

Brav, on the JB's.......ferget the crap.
It, and Rem Clean, and PSP, (Iosso), being the exception, (not quite as aggressive).......DOES remove barrel steel...and a lot of it.
The favorite line on this stuff is "Benchrester's use it".
And my answer is yeah, "and they replace barrels every 500-1000 rounds too".

Happy Easter.....

Two Shoes
Terry <tls8323@cs.com>
USA - Sunday, April 15, 2001 at 18:46:27 (ZULU) (your host address: 205.188.192.33)


Bravo,

I have access to both star-gages and air gages, if you want, I can take a scrap piece and give that JB's a test, and let you know what I come up with.

I've always believed that if something is working for a guy, don't change it. If you believe JB's is the reason your barrel is shooting, then stick with it by-gawd. Whether it is right or wrong to use it isn't the point, it works for you. JB's is not a cure all for improving the accuracy of a barrel though, a clean bad barrel will shoot poorly as will a fouled good barrel. No matter how many times you scrub the bad barrel, it will still be a bum.

But introducing an abrasive to the bore, no matter what when how will decrease the life of that bore, especially after the chamber has been cut. You are increasing your leade, and whether it is .00001 or .0001, that is that many fewer rounds that rifle will shoot accurately. You are not just removing copper, any where there is no copper fouling you are removing material off that surface also.

If business ever gets slow at H-S, I will insist that people clean their barrels with 140 grit silicon carbide Clover lapping compound. I'll buy the cans myself, and send with each rifle. By gawd you'll never again see such a clean barrel, no fouling whatsoever, promise. :P
 

later

JR <jr_rcsd@hotmail.com>
rapid city, sd, USA - Sunday, April 15, 2001 at 19:07:00 (ZULU) (your host address: 208.34.14.24)


Rubbin' pennies:

C'mon now Bravo, whatdya think that black stuff left on your thumb is? oxidation, just as if you rubbed the silver. Your thumb is softer than the metal, so it will not be removing material unless you rub it long enough to generate enough friction to heat the coin past it's melting point, and that's a long time.

But, introduce say some silica sand and the oils from your skin, and yeah, you'd be removing metal.

I believe aluminum oxide is the compound they use in JB's. Same stuff I use in my lapping compound. Aluminum oxide is the same material used in grinding wheels for high speed steel and hardened tool steels. Sure works good for removing steel.
 

JR <jr_rcsd@hotmail.com>
rapid city, sd, USA - Sunday, April 15, 2001 at 19:25:07 (ZULU) (your host address: 208.34.14.24)


Tuesday night I'm going to have the unique honor of participating in a Q&A with both Boots Obermeyer and Jack Krieger during the High Power class I'm attending, put on by Jim Owens.

Anyone have specific questions you'd like me to ask them on your behalf? I'll try to accomodate as many as I can, but I also want to be courteous to the other students.

Mr. Owens has already told us that, "Black helecopter type questions are NOT to be asked of Boots Obermeyer".

I'm going to be asking about reloading dies/powders/primers/bullets/brass, 5R rifling, the 6.5X284, JB's bore paste, proper cleaning (too much vs. not enough), Outers Foul Out, Rem vs. Winch actions, Moly coating, VLD booolets...
 

MikeL <mlitscher@wi.rr.com>
Brew City, WI, USA - Sunday, April 15, 2001 at 19:28:14 (ZULU) (your host address: 65.25.160.112)


Re; AMAX 168's and that thing TwoShoes has.

Found that if the Amax is run to 2800fps the 1000 yard drop is only 30.5moa....could be intereting. Have to try it further since I got my blood sugar outta whack yesterday and was shooting minute of berm at long range.

That there thingie TS refers to as the beast....well it's one sweeeeeeeeeeeet rifle indeed. Kept 'splainin to him how it needed broke in....of course I'd have been more than happy to do that over the next 3-4 years.............. :)
Mike in Texas <mcdonald@hcn.hcnews.com>
Texas, USA - Sunday, April 15, 2001 at 19:51:51 (ZULU) (your host address: 208.232.237.23)


Just checking. Happy Easter.
Jim <broonsma@prodigy.net>
PDX, Or, USA - Sunday, April 15, 2001 at 20:01:29 (ZULU) (your host address: 63.255.14.102)
Scott, Ken, fellow SC editors and such, even you Marius :P,

If you want an explanatory article relating to the various aspects of cleaning solvents and compounds as per match barrels, I would gladly give you an insight you may not have considered previously. Just a consideration.

jr

JR <jr_rcsd@hotmail.com>
rapid city, sd, USA - Monday, April 16, 2001 at 00:26:06 (ZULU) (your host address: 208.34.14.24)


JR:
Dude -if you want to submit sumthin for hog reading... send it on up. Now - if ya could - put it in either text or ms word format.

ken :)

Ken Hunter <hunterkr@riflemen.net>
nokesville, va, USA - Monday, April 16, 2001 at 00:33:23 (ZULU) (your host address: 207.233.164.10)


All,

I bought some South African 5.56mm from Midway USA and fired them out of my AR15 and Daewoo K2. I had a misfire rate of 40%. One of the reasons is the AR has a JP trigger and hammer with spring. The K2 on the other hand was stock. Has anyone experienced the same misfire fiasco? I bought 1000 rounds of the stuff. I will try it in my Bushmaster to see if it misfires as well.
Has anyone tried the Russian 5.56? Is it reliable? I could care less about tack driving accuracy. I am going to sign up for a TFTT class soon amd need some ammo.

Semper Fi!

Bad Karma
Bad Karma <jwhiteii56@hotmail.com>
USA - Monday, April 16, 2001 at 01:22:58 (ZULU) (your host address: 209.76.47.178)


Doug....You now know why everyone should have more than one deer rifle!

JR...Do the JB test..Many would like to see the results..

Bravo...Glad the 1911 is running..

Had my hands on the new RRRRUUUGer 77CR rifle Friday..Know most here aren't hot on the brand but what a compact little number..smaller and lighter than a Model 7; .223, .243, & .260 were in stock. Don't know if any other cals. are offered..If I needed a truck gun???#*^//?
 

outa here
Markwell <markwell@hardynet.com>
More mobile and getting the leg back in shape in the Alleghenies, WV, USA - Monday, April 16, 2001 at 01:32:34 (ZULU) (your host address: 63.67.240.41)


Bad Karma,

Haven't used the Rooskie stuff personally......but I heard you need to steer clear of the WOLF brand........

The lacquer on the booolets, and cases foul the chamber after firing this stuff.

Mike in Texas, has had great luck with the S & B stuff.

You can buy it from "Cheaper than Dirt". And I'm sure many other places.

Mike L, You LUCKY dog!!!!!!..........Boots, AND Krieger???...

One specific question, I have long heard that the 5R profile has a shortened tube life as compared to the regular 4/6 L & G styles....if you can remember..get their opinions on this.

Seems, a few years back, the M24 SWS had this problem.

And, Yes....By ALL means...do NOT get Boot's on the non exisitent..... Black Helo's((;

Two Shoes
Still smilin', in Tejas!!!!!

Terry <tls8323@cs.com>
USA - Monday, April 16, 2001 at 02:07:13 (ZULU) (your host address: 205.188.195.33)


JR,

What are you waiting for?????????????????

Big Smile :-)

Happy Feet! Happy Feet!
 
 

Military Surplus Ammo - Caveat Emptor Dudes!
 
 

peteR <PNGREIFF@AOL.COM>
Big City, By-Gawd, USA - Monday, April 16, 2001 at 02:11:12 (ZULU) (your host address: 64.12.102.54)


Happy Easter! The bunny tasted real good for supper! Liked that chocolate that he brought for desert too.

New tactical gear forum for you fellow gear hawgs:

http://lightfighter.community.everyone.net/commun_v3/scripts/directory.pl
 

Time for some Pepto, think the bunny is trying to get out, Bolt out!
Bolt <reeldoctor@mindspring.com>
NC, USA - Monday, April 16, 2001 at 02:34:32 (ZULU) (your host address: 63.49.119.122)


>>Anybody heard from Castillo???((((:<<

Still alive, amigo. Been busy as all hell the last four weeks or so. Personell problems ranging from resignations to geography (my guys in India have been giving me fits). Luckly, it seems to have sorted itself out, and things should (finally) settle down this week...

...which is good, because I've been working on PeteR's rifle update article for two weeks now, and am still on page 1! Ugh. From the looks of things, I'm going to have many more articles coming in soon.

RE: S&B
I shoot a heck of a lot of this stuff through my pistols. Natchez Shooting Supply (http://www.natchezss.com/) usually has the best price, even after paying for shipping. I just bought a case of .45 ACP 230gr FMJ last week for ~$180, delivered. FWIW
Roger C. <madeditor75@hotmail.com>
The city of body piercing and concealed handgunds in church, Austin, TX, USA - Monday, April 16, 2001 at 02:44:45 (ZULU) (your host address: 24.28.72.4)


PeteR:
Humpin' the .308towed up the rappel tower... uhhh... well I guess running with my 10 foot tamping bar helped out after all :)

Ken
Ken Hunter <hunterkr@riflemen.net>
Nokesville, Va, USA - Monday, April 16, 2001 at 02:45:22 (ZULU) (your host address: 207.233.164.10)


Mike L, You LUCKY dog!!!!!!..........Boots, AND Krieger???...

Yep, both of them. For three whole hours, and however long we can bribe them to stick around afterwards with free brewskies. And yes, I do know how lucky I am, which is why I'm trying to make the most of it by fielding questions here.

Thanks, I'll add your question to the list and let you know what they say.
 

MikeL <mlitscher@wi.rr.com>
Brew City, WI, USA - Monday, April 16, 2001 at 03:00:28 (ZULU) (your host address: 65.25.160.112)


Guys,

I believe the Easter bunny is now truly dead, for at least another year. My ex is probably cooking it for me now......

Markwell, pete ah,

youse guys realize when I do this test, I gotta buy some JB's, and bring it into the shop, heheheh, I'll be ridiculed!! The crap I'm going to have to put up with just to satisfy youse guys!! I'll get some info rounded up for ya, tech info, and hopefully no one will have to destroy their barrel from removing fouling ever again!! You can get on with shooting your barrels out, not cleaning your barrels out!

later

JR <jr_rcsd@hotmail.com>
rapid city, sd, USA - Monday, April 16, 2001 at 04:19:48 (ZULU) (your host address: 208.34.14.24)


I am planing on getting a long range super accurate rifle for deer ,varmints and targets I had a 7mm rem mag for that but it bit the dust anyways im thinking about getting the remington 700 VS in 308 left handed verson and put a springfield goverment 4-14 x 56 mill dot scope on it handload for it and get it as accurate as possible I'd like some thing in a mag cal. for cleaner job on deer but i want a factory target style rifle in left hand and i like the 308 cal but bullet placement is more inportant than haveing a mag cal. If any of you have anything to say or any experience with this gun/scope please tell me
Brett <vember@accesscomm.ca>
Regina, Sk., Canada - Monday, April 16, 2001 at 05:00:16 (ZULU) (your host address: 24.72.8.188)
bad karma:

I recently tested out the following ammo all in the same day in my Bushmaster (20-inch, heavy barrel, cheapish chinese 3x9 scope w/illuminated reticle on a Delta mount over an A3 handle):
69 grain handloaded "match" ammo from Daryl Williams, Performance Ammo Corp
55 grain Wolf (this is the Russian you asked about, I've never tried Barnaul)
55-grain Winchester
62-grain SS109, Spanish (INI, Palencio)

The winchester and the wolf were comparable, grouped about 1.25" at 100 yards. I have had .90 with the winchester ammo, but not this lot, not this day. I did not like the oily crap that they have on the Wolf ammo. No reason in particular, I just don't like the idea of running it through my rifle. There's cheap and good and there's good n' cheap, if you'll forgive my bias.

Believe it or not, the Spanish ss109 was very very close to the match ammo. You'd a thought that the match components plus the 69-grain vs 62 would have put the match ammo way in front. Around 1" for both. Maybe a tad more. Not a good day. In the hands of a good marksman, the "better" ammo may have made a difference. I went out and bought 1000 rounds of the spanish.
doug <doug@intertrust.com>
USA - Monday, April 16, 2001 at 05:07:54 (ZULU) (your host address: 198.3.163.3)


Pablito: Quoted this site on the little Loopy. Thanks for the insight-strongly suspected their primary function was infrared protection, couldn't get confirmation. Was hoping to avoid sunshield tubes. Scopes we were looking at would have needed custom shields. There is no free lunch, will budget for more expensive Leupolds than intended.
WR Moore <wrmoore2001@yahoo.com>
USA - Monday, April 16, 2001 at 09:35:46 (ZULU) (your host address: 158.106.50.3)
WM Moore...

They are not to protect you from IR, they are to stop others from seeing the bright "PINK" from the IR filters on your bins, or scope.

Go here, and see exactly what they do...

http://www.camouflage.com/front.html

... I have a pair of M22's with the anti-IR filters, and the damn things will get you busted every time you try to use them.

When I walk past the local college, all the co-eds say "There's that guy with the weird PINK binoculars ;))

BUSTED!!

'lito
Pablito <condor@mags.net>
USA - Monday, April 16, 2001 at 10:30:47 (ZULU) (your host address: 208.249.180.84)


Roger,
Ha! After you finish that article, YOU WILL be ready to head to a monastary for some R & R. ;-)
 

JR,
We will be looking forward to seeing the data, Just tell the folks at work you're doing it as a charitable contribution to the "Great Unwashed".
 

'Lito,
Pink Binos?! Sounds like the UnDudes local "Urban Camoflage"
 

Oh well ofta work, and the reality of why rainy Mondays exist..........

Chao!
peteR <PNGREIFF@AOL.COM>
Its Monday Again!, By-Gawd, USA - Monday, April 16, 2001 at 10:43:33 (ZULU) (your host address: 205.188.196.23)


PeteR,
True statement, but it's not a knock on your wriring. I come home in the evening and can't bare to use my brain any more, so I start looking for "Friends" re-runs...then realize after ten seconds, "Hey, Friends sucks." So I turn off the TV and read some mental junkfood novel for 30 minutes before falling asleep. I've hardly *touched* a rifle in the past month, much less shot one. My next trip to the firing line is going to be u_g_l_y.
Roger C. <madeditor75@hotmail.com>
Austin, TX, USA - Monday, April 16, 2001 at 11:49:44 (ZULU) (your host address: 24.28.72.4)
wriring? wriring? WTF was that? Agh. See, can't even type two sentences without screwing up any more. LOL!
Roger C. <madeditor75@hotmail.com>
No spellin' in Austin, TX, USA - Monday, April 16, 2001 at 11:52:06 (ZULU) (your host address: 24.28.72.4)
JR..
I would stay with a 26" barrel if you want to use it in the field the 28" and longer suck!!! (In my humble opinion)

I have to agree with you on the JBs. Now if I use it, I use it very carefully and not much of it.

Gary Schneider of Schneider barrels was the first one to get on me about it. Years ago I had one of his barrels on a 308 and I had trouble with it fouling on one land right toward the end of the barrel and it was throwing a round out of the group in the exact same spot most of the time.

I was cleaning it with JBs to get rid of the fouling in that spot. He told me to "Knock that shit off" and clean it with chemical cleaners and if it didn't quit fouling he would lap it for me.

He said everytime you clean with JBs you need to start the breakin process all over again because you destroy the "Bond" that was built up during the breakin process.

I asked my rifle builder about it and he said it was "Bull" but you know I listened to Gary and damn if he wasn't right. He told me to take one of my other rifles that cleans up easy and then scrub it with JBs and see what happens. I did and it fouled more for the first time or two that I shoot it. It took longer to clean up until it "Seated" back in again.

Terry..
Sorry Bud, I got the starting of actual case sepreration with the IMI brass. It was loaded to hot the first time though, we had loaded it with 45grs of Varget and we had stiff case extraction. After the second firing with a lighter load I noticed two cases that had the actual line you could feel with your nail. I checked and found no others then after the third loading more started to show up.

I like their brass and I hope we just had a bad batch of it I would be interested in finding out how yours works out for you.

Ken..
Your dead on, on the 260, it will shoot to 1000yds just fine!!! IN fact I have one with a 22" barrel that does it. I love my 6.5s in both the 260 and the 6.5x284. I would have to agree that the IMP would be a big pain and I would think that the 6.5x55 would fill that gap it it didn't loose accuracy once you started pushing the bullets up around 2900fps.

300WSM and 6.5???
This may be a real hot rod but what killed the 264Win Mag was OVER POWDER CAP. case = Barrel burner. You don't need a lot of powder to push the 6.5s to top speed. The 260 and 284s are proving that. A lot of research has been done over the years and they found that the ideal case cap. for the 6.5 bullet would be a .257 Roberts Imp case. The 284 case is just a tad over but very close to perfect and thats why it does so well.
You can push the 140s in the 284 case to 3200fps and that was 264 Mag velocities.
Pat <mrbullet@hotmail.com>
USA - Monday, April 16, 2001 at 14:00:20 (ZULU) (your host address: 207.41.18.3)


Hello Everyone, I dont get a chance to post on here as much as I would like to, I really apreciate the kudos I recieve here. I thought I would let you all know that I just added my first employee at G.A. His name is Eric Reed formerly SSG Reid of the U.S.M.C. , NCOIC of sniper rifle production at Quanico, VA. Eric starts Wednesday and is really fired up to be building rifles again. Eric was stationed at Quantico from 1995 to 1999 for those of you out there who may have been through there durring that time.
 

JR, with your dislike of JB Bore Paste you must realize that this stuff has been arround for at least 30 years that I know of. You wont find to many benchrest guys without a bottle or 2 in their cleaning bags. The abrasive in JB is 2 micron, and is not going to change dimensions of your barrel with normal use. If you are making barrels you probably lap them with a 240 - 350 grit silicon carbide compound. Probably 20-25 strokes with a lead lap and they are shipped out the door, am I close to correct??? It would take you 20 to 30 thousand strokes to remove the same ammount of material with JB.

JB is good for removing copper from a bore. It is not to be used at every cleaning. Keep this in mind.
 

George
George, G.A. Precision <A10Xrifle@aol.com>
Kansas City, MO, USA - Monday, April 16, 2001 at 17:06:38 (ZULU) (your host address: 64.12.102.163)


Just one quick note on wolf ammo, runs like a champ in my crome lined guns, but freezes in the chamber of my match stainless barrel. Seems the laquer gets sticky when hot (what a shock) FWIW
Brian <pyronecro@email.com>
Columbia, SC, USA - Monday, April 16, 2001 at 21:31:15 (ZULU) (your host address: 24.88.116.129)
Hi,
I am looking for some advice. I am a professional deer stalker in the UK and am considering buying a laser rangefinder. My current options are the Nikon 800 compact, Bushnell 8oo compact, or the Leica 800 compact. Does anyone have any experience of one, or all of these and if so what are your comments and recommends? In the UK they are all similarly priced so that does not matter. I have heard that the Bushnell has more 'whistles and bells' but, the Leica is optically superior. Would the Bushnell have the advantage over the Leica in the mist and rain (a very common condition, particularly in the west of the UK), or are the Bushnell's features just gimmicks?

All the Best
Jon
Jon Beardsley <jon@sgreadan.fsnet.co.uk>
Ulverston, Cumbria, UK - Monday, April 16, 2001 at 21:32:10 (ZULU) (your host address: 195.92.194.19)


Pat..... if you're referring to my comment about the .264WM, perhaps I didn't make myself clear. This cartridge was ruined by unknowledgable users who used it for the WRONG APPLICATION. It is a medium-to-big game cartridge, pure and simple. It is NOT a varmint cart., nor is it a tactical or target cartridge. Use it as such and you WILL burn out a barrel quickly. Did you ever own a .264WM? It seems that there's been an awful lot of "I heards" on this site lately. Well, I HEARD that the 6.5x284 burns out good barrels in about 1600rds. And that's from one of the DR's most ardent 6.5x284 proponents! THERE IS NO MAGIC HERE! Which brings me to the 140gr. bullet @3200fps from the 6.5x284 - is that something like the 100gr. bullet @3100+ out of the 6mm. Int'l?
It took Jerry Rice's .02 to stop that bullshit, didn't it?
I've owned a .264WM since 1962, took plenty of antelope, muledeer, and even a couple of Elk (in my younger days), and there's plenty of life left in the old Westerner. I've got more than enough varmint, target, tactical and just plain fun rifles than to have to make the .264 do anything it wasn't designed to do. If I had a 427 Cobra (I wish), I sure wouldn't go mud-boggin' with it, nor would I drive it to work everyday. If you care to know the reason for its existence, you should get ahold of the W-W Technical Bulletin (No.1), Sept. 1962 by J.G. Baker- Associate Director of Ammunition Development, and read it.
ALAN <asimon@gj.net>
PALISADE, COLORADO, USA - Monday, April 16, 2001 at 22:48:36 (ZULU) (your host address: 216.169.68.33)
Alan: on the 6.5 Sir Wes: I've been TOLD 1600 by a guy that shoots it as his across the course match rifle, and he's one of the honchos out there (Palma 20 guys). I trust that number. HOWEVER, he runs it hot, obviously. What I'm *HOPING* to hear from Sir Wes is that it lasts significantly longer with slightly reduced rounds. If that's the case, it would be in the 6.5 Swede category, but without pushing the bounds of the round. Even though they'd be equal, the X284 would be EASIER I *THINK*. Now for the REAL fun stuff: the Cobra! If things work out the way I hope they will, I'll be doing just that (driving it to work, not mudbogging), but we're still some years out. Except I obviously can't afford one of those Dove Performance aluminum 427 sideoiler blocks. I'm having to make due with a 429 in "hopped up Super Cobra Jet" guise ('bout the same torque, more HP). Either way, it's a high speed suicide waiting to happen. Hourah! Mine is a LoneStar. Since Carrol Shelby has his shop just south of here.....

George: thanks for the numbers. I was going to run an extraction on some of my JB's, then run it in a microtrac to get the particle size in microns. Getting rid of the grease was the hard part, I MUCH prefer just reading the number ;-) Thanks!

Wolf ammo: my neighbor said it was GREAT some time back, purchased it by the case, and had a great time. As great as one can have with a Simonov. The most recent case he bought, according to him, is an entire dissapointment. Seems that something changed, and now it sucks. FWIW.

26" barrels? HA! I was thinking about just this. I said I really liked the velocity of the 26", burned more efficiently I think (or maybe it was just the barrel). But I like carrying the 24", and the velocity isn't THAT much less. My good friend says "split the difference!" HA!
Boomhauer (Bravo) <Bravo762@yahoo.com>
Arlen, Texas, USA - Tuesday, April 17, 2001 at 00:01:48 (ZULU) (your host address: 209.180.85.162)


Bravo...
EVERYTHING will last longer with reduced loads... and if you have a .308 and a 30-06, with same barrels (etc), and load them both with the same bullet, at the same velocity... the 06 will last much longer, because of lower pressures, and lower flame temperatures.

'lito

Pablito <condor@mags.net>
USA - Tuesday, April 17, 2001 at 00:13:42 (ZULU) (your host address: 208.249.180.104)


Hello folks,

George Gardner,

It's about time you gave your input, LOL, I've been trying to lure you out of the shadows for weeks now. I have a project, may need your help, I'll e-mail ya with details eh?

George, JB's rounds the edges of the rifling, erodes the structure of the lands, and removes the finish from the bore. If you have uneven copper buildup, and you are pushing that patch thru until it's gone, you will have uneven dimensions in your bore, because as you are removing copper you are removing steel at whatever rate. You are most likely going to end up with a tight spot where the fouling was the worst, and have opened up the bore where it was minimal. Unlike solvents or Outer's Foul out, JB's doesn't just attack the copper. I would rather see JB's applied with a lap, if anything, I think that would help keep the integrity of the rifling structure.

You're pretty close, as far as our lapping process. I went through hoops and ladders finding the right grit/compound to use on our barrels. That Clover Compound Silicon carbide is a no-no with our stainless barrels, doesn't break down and scratches, I tried corundurum (?) and I found 240 grit USP aluminum oxide(ECG) is the stuff to use. I tried 280 and 320 grit, left a cloudy finish, did not remove material at a rate that was 'economical'. I don't necessarily have a standard for how many strokes I lap, it's all in the feel, but I have lapped barrels as few as 25 strokes, and as much as 400 strokes. Depends on the bore and groove dimensions and how uniform these dimensions are in the barrel. But when it is finished lapped, that is the finish that I am trying to achieve and it should be maintained. When I am done with that barrel, no more abrasive should be introduced into that bore. Ever.

I wasn't sure of the grit of JB's, but if it is 2 micron, where do you think it will possibly build up in the bore? I'm sure you have looked thru many a barrel with a borescope, and notice the 'railroad tracks' often left by the bore reamers, and definitely with the chamber reamers. At 2 micron, it'll be a bugger to know if you've cleaned it out of these crevices. So when you fire afterwards, you stand the chance of continuing to 'lap' the barrel, further deteriorating the life of that barrel.

Benchresters like the stuff cuz it works fast. They also shoot their barrels out fast. Faster isn't always better, take it from a cut rifler, we like everything slow, smooth, and easy, call us casual. We take our time with everything.

I agree that JB's works well on copper, and by-gawd be my guest to use it on any factory barrel that's out there. Match barrels are a whole new ball game, and if you want to keep it a match barrel, keep the JB's out.
 
 

Pat:

Once again, faster isn't always better eh?? That was the demise of a lot of the 264WM faction, they burned many barrels up due to hot powders. The 6.5 bore, much like the 25, 7mm and 270, is not a good bore to use if you want a hot rod, if you want to keep the barrel for long. The powder capacity of bore/bore diameter ratio is nein gut on the 'medium' bores, so keep 'em honest.

PeteAH!!!
 

You still Da MAN!! You wouldn't believe it, it's windy today...... :)

later
 
 

JR <jr_rcsd@hotmail.com>
rapid city, sd, USA - Tuesday, April 17, 2001 at 00:54:26 (ZULU) (your host address: 208.34.14.24)


JR...
>"You wouldn't believe it, it's windy today...... :)"<

Windy?... windy in South Dakota?... Naw, you gotta be kidding!!

Were you able to walk to the car?... without holding on to somfin?... then it wasn't windy ;)

'lito
Pablito <condor@mags.net>
USA - Tuesday, April 17, 2001 at 01:10:30 (ZULU) (your host address: 208.249.180.104)


On JB, I have to admit I have used this on many factory bbls in the past. On the Remington Hammer Forged it is the only thing I could use to get the copper out. Since I have gone to better Match Quality bbls I have not had to use it. George says its ok to use, Schedier says dont use the stuff. Berger says scrub full speed ahead. I dont know, but for safety will not over do it with the stuff. It is the only thing that will get that crap molly out if you use it. I still hate molly!

All this talk of 62 grains 223 this and that and you guys missed the best. BLACKHILLS not only makes it but you can also buy the reloads. I bought a case of the 62 grain reloads and it shoots very well. Great job Jeff Hoffman!

Crack about my Ghillie? Well the blonde Ghillie was going to be replaced. Hell I spent all day yesterday making a new set but I like the old one better, so it goes to Pendelton. If I get rich I am going to buy one of the nice factory built ones and just tie the burlap. I am much better with slings than pants and shirts in the sewing department.

Faster bullets make bbl makers happier. I will stick with 308 for 99% of my needs. Changing a bbl every 2000 rds is just plain nutts.

Undude
 

MikeMiller <Tactical@tacticalintervention.com>
Calif, USA - Tuesday, April 17, 2001 at 01:15:38 (ZULU) (your host address: 64.12.102.29)


Wife shot the CAR this weekend....BIG mistake, now I gotta buy another. This site is siphoning away all of the O.T........And now Dad's spending his Social Security checks on guns and do-dads....
Mark Smith <Windinmane@aol.com>
Lake Cormorant, MS, USA - Tuesday, April 17, 2001 at 01:30:27 (ZULU) (your host address: 152.163.205.52)
Bore life in 6.5's and .30's...

Lot's of "I've heard that"...yada, yada, yada,

The reality is that the bore is shot out when it quits giving you the desired accuracy for the mission. Whether it's target, benchrest, or tactical. Period.

Having said that, I agree with the Undude. Real men shoot a .308!
It will cover 99% of the missions and do it well. I shoot it and the 6.5 X .284. My M40A1 clone shoots almost as well as my Chandler 6.5 X .284. At least to 600 yards. Beyond that I'll take the wind bucking and flat trajectory of the 6.5.

You are guaranteed of getting 5,000 rounds plus out of the .308 tube. Folks are reporting 10K plus and still have usable accuracy.

I expect the 6.5 X .284, in MY application, to go about 2,000 rounds. Why? I don't hot rod it. There are folks reporting this cartridge in the 3,150 FPS category. Damned if I know how they do it. Just know I don't want to...
Keep vleocity in the 2,950 to 3,050 FPS category and you should extend bore life. Can't answer that for certain, because I'm still a LONG way away from that 2K count.

I use my .308 as a primary and my 6.5 X .284 when conditions are tough or long. It does give this aging old fart an edge.

If you have money for only one gun get a .308! Smile and be happy...

Semper Fi,

Wes
Wes Howe <wsaa@proaxis.com>
Blodgett, OR, USA - Tuesday, April 17, 2001 at 01:57:50 (ZULU) (your host address: 198.145.248.118)


'lito:

Windy? Yeah it was windy. We don't even notice 'til it gets over 45mph, otherwise it's just a breeze. Have to mount your scope perpendicular to barrel for windage adjustments. They said 75 on Wednesday, I hope they were talking temperature and not wind speed, you never know in South of North Dakota.

later
 
 

JR <jr_rcsd@hotmail.com>
rapid city, sd, USA - Tuesday, April 17, 2001 at 03:20:21 (ZULU) (your host address: 208.34.14.24)


Another related question on the JB's topic. Does Sweet's solvent, specifically the ammonia, cause harm to the BBL? i.e. remove metal or change its hardness and/or structure.

Thanks in advance.
KROWBAR <KROWBAR@SCSSSINC.COM>
Chapel Hill, NC, USA - Tuesday, April 17, 2001 at 04:59:11 (ZULU) (your host address: 32.101.164.95)


Mikey,
WE WOULDN'T make fun of the Cali-Blonde ghillie, I be talking 'bout your area of operation..........
 

Krowbar,
Anything that removes metal needs to be used carefully. Ammonium solvents also have problems when mixed with certain bore cleaners.
It seems we went over that about a year or so ago, and the topic evolved into what Ammonium does to cooling tubes in nuclear reactors......
 

ALAN,
Can't use the .264M for varmints? The most wonderous crowsplosion in my life was done with a .264M.
 
 

Chao!
 
 

peteR <PNGREIFF@AOL.COM>
Big City, By-Gawd, USA - Tuesday, April 17, 2001 at 10:47:37 (ZULU) (your host address: 152.163.201.209)


KROWBAR...
Ammonia is a VERY good copper/brass remover, and will not change the metal structure of the barrel. Some cleaners can't be left in the barrel for long periods because of other stuff in them (read the lable on the bottle)... and some cleaners can't be used with other cleaners, without "cleaning" out the first cleaner (also... read the lable), which is one of the reasons (besides the smell) that I use #9.

#9 is barrel friendly... wet it, leave it, clean it before going to bed.

'lito
 

Pablito <condor@mags.net>
It looks like another BAD spring... Scuba tanks at the range :((, in the North East, USA - Tuesday, April 17, 2001 at 10:54:59 (ZULU) (your host address: 208.249.180.115)


Ref: Tabasco Tactical

I've got a DOA Tabasco scope. Any of you guys able/willing to do an autopsy on it to see what went wrong?

Ref: Arizona CCW

Where can I go to find out about Arizona CCW laws?

out
 

Kevin R. Mussack (Andy's Dad) <kmussack@aol.com>
Clifton Springs, New York, USA - Tuesday, April 17, 2001 at 12:03:59 (ZULU) (your host address: 64.80.33.70)


Kevin I'd let the Tabasco sauce scope RIP.

Try: packing.org for CCW laws...

Anyone ever try the AWC breakdown stock ? How about the HS Thumbhole?
TonyY <ayackowski@pershing.com>
Woodbridge, NJ, USA - Tuesday, April 17, 2001 at 13:07:30 (ZULU) (your host address: 32.97.88.102)


Alan..
I wasn't referring to your comments nor was I flaming a 264 Win Mag, I agree 100% with what you said. Wasn't the round originaly designed by a loooong range chuck shooter?? Then guys started using it for game that was to big and were all upset when it zipped through them and didn't drop them like a 300WM did?? Or tried shooting chucks all day with them and then complained because the throats were gone in less than 1000rds.

As for the speed on the 6.5x284,I shot my first 6.5x284 across the cronograph at 3170fps with RL-22 and 140 AMAXs. This rifle however did have a 1-9 twist so was a tad faster than my 1-8 is now. This rifle had a 26" Pac Nor super match barrel on it. The primers were just starting to pit with no stiffness in the bolt so I am sure 3200fps would have been .5 grs more of powder. I was looking for a good load in the 3000fps range so I didn't go any higher.

I still say the 264 is a over bore case and is a barrel burner and yes if you shoot only a few rounds through any rifle over a long period of time it will last forever. What I am talking about is how "I" would use it in competitions or practice. I baby my 6.5x284 and am very careful about not getting it to hot when shooting. I could take the throat out of it in an afternoon with out much effort.

I ruined my 260 in Wyoming a couple of years ago shooting it in 100degree temps over a 3 day shoot with the last day being a man on man competition. Even the 308s got so hot you couldn't hardly touch the barrels. My 260 barrel now looks like a dried up lake bed for about 6" down the barrel and its had 4" cut off of it!! So by all practical reasoning its junk, (to quote my gunsmith) but after rechambering it still shoots .4s at 100yds and will shoot under MOA at 1000yds. I don't have a clue how long it will go and I know when it does it will go fast.

I agree with Mike and 'lito that the 308 is the round of choice for the kind of shooting I do but I want (Or need) the extra edge that the 6.5s give me and when I can use it, I will, but I try to avoid the man on man stuff now like the plague, its just not worth it.

So before I get off my soap box, I will also say that NO I have not shot a 6x22-250 at 3200fps with the 100gs bullets but "I" was the one who said I had read it somewhere and I was just asking if anyone else knew much about them because it sounded like a neat round. As I recall didn't someone from Texas have one and was shooting it and really liked it??? I just can't remember if he was shooting the heavy bullets are not.

I hope your not taking this as a direct attack on you or the 264 its not ment that way and neither was my first post. This is just my findings and my opinions on the subject and no more, so if we disagree I hope we can agree to disagree:):):)
Pat <mrbullet@hotmail.com>
USA - Tuesday, April 17, 2001 at 13:43:10 (ZULU) (your host address: 207.41.18.3)


I am planning to by a Remington 40-X (repeater) and use it for my long range shooting. Do you think it is worth the money or should I get a Remington 700 VS and have the action trued and a Hart barrel installed. Anyone have any experience with these two rifles care to comment. I plan on mounting either a Leupold MK4 M3 10x40mm or a Springfield Armory 4-14X56mm (2nd Gen.) on the rifle. I haven't done much long range shooting in warm weather, just deer hunting in the fall. I shot my Savage 10PF (223 Rem) with a 6.5-20X50mm Simmons scope yesterday 80 degree temp and actually shot smaller groups at 10 power than 20 power at 300 yards. The 10X groups ran 1.5-1.75" and the 20X groups were twice the size. I guess this is why the Military uses 10X scopes. The mirage was just to bad to get a good sight picture of the target. Any suggestions are welcome.

Steve
Steve <Ginger@devtex.net>
San Antonio, TX, USA - Tuesday, April 17, 2001 at 16:14:39 (ZULU) (your host address: 63.96.143.95)


Pat,
Maybe you were thinkin of this set up..........
Mike in Texas has a 22-250, and spits the 80 gr Sierra's........
We are talkin serious accuracy at 1k...........
Barrel life before set back, 2K.

How bout 19 out of 20 through a 5"x5" swinger @ 1K???.
The sucker SMOKES.......and the Nut behind the bolt, ain't no slouch either.(((:
Yeah, I'm talkin about you....you big lug!!!(:

Kevin, How's about I get in touch with Dick at Premier reticles.......and see if he will give us a post mortem??.
Would be an interesting report to say the least.

I have heard, (Gooch), disassembled one some time back, and said they were J_O_N_K.......

The "M" models are no longer available, and arew not being produced any longer.( PTL!!!!)

Two Shoes
Terry <tls8323@cs.com>
USA - Tuesday, April 17, 2001 at 18:05:12 (ZULU) (your host address: 205.188.199.174)


Howdy,
With all this talk of JB, I was wondering about Flitz. I saw a pistolsmith use it on the bore of my HK USP 40, and that baby shined like new. It also shot real well. So does anyone have any experience with using it on rifle barrels. I don't think that it is an abrasive, so it shouldn't wear down the rifling.... right? THanks guys.
Mayhem <killare@hotmail.com>
USA - Tuesday, April 17, 2001 at 18:47:10 (ZULU) (your host address: 63.25.50.177)
Terry wrote:

"Kevin, How's about I get in touch with Dick at Premier reticles.......and see if he will give us a post mortem??.
Would be an interesting report to say the least."

Go for it!

I just mounted my new M1LR on the Armalite. If it shoots half as good as it looks I'll be a happy camper.

I brought home enough from Vegas to buy a new Pelican/Browning hard case for take down rifles/shotguns. The whole SWS breaks down and fits in there nicely. Very "James Bondish".....

out
 

Kevin R. Mussack (Andy's Dad) <kmussack@aol.com>
Clifton Springs, New York, USA - Tuesday, April 17, 2001 at 18:51:08 (ZULU) (your host address: 64.80.33.70)


Steve..
I haven't had a 40X but I know 'lito has and loves his. I did what your other choice was though and I loved it also. My son delt me out of it though and he is now shooting it and you would have a hard time getting it away from him. It was a real shooter, usually under .5 MOA on the average. My averages are usually for around 40 5 shot groups averaged to come up with what I feel the gun is capable of. Hope this helps!!

Terry..
Thanks, thats probably what I was thinking about I knew someone on here had commented on it. It is the 6mm version isn't it?? I remember the article I had read said that it was really a shooter at 1000yds but I can't recall the whole article. I also can't remember the comments on the wind, if it was good or bad. I would assume probably not to good of a wind bucker at 1000. If I don't write something down its gone!!! I could be the poster child for Post it Notes!!!
Pat <mrbullet@hotmail.com>
USA - Tuesday, April 17, 2001 at 19:30:37 (ZULU) (your host address: 207.41.18.3)


Good News!!!!!! Just closed a deal today that will net a pretty good commission. If I can talk the wife into letting me keep $2k to $3k of it, looks like there will be a new addition to the family. I think I will call George Gardner; I already have a name picked out!!!!!

Semper Fi!
Paul <paulcockerham@att.net>
NO, VA, USA - Tuesday, April 17, 2001 at 20:02:06 (ZULU) (your host address: 216.173.17.78)


On the issue of JB cleaner

You guys kill me, the shooting industry is full of "I think this, so it must be true" mentality.

The shooting industry suffers as a whole from "NO SCIENCE", every one has an opinion passed off as fact.

In light of the complete lack of scientific evidence we are left with:

1. "What we believe" which might not be true.
2. Anecdotal evidence, (an observation of evidence) which might be true.

Question: Has anyone ever worn out a match barrel using JB?… That you can prove? (see #1)

I know as a fact that if you shoot a bore with excessive coppering it WILL ruin it…eventually!

As for what JB does or doesn't do, the list is amusing, like " it rounds off the lands" GOOD,
that's called 5R rifling, it reduces bullet upset and provides a better gas seal.

Proof is in the pudding guys! (see #2) every time you launch a bullet it does very rude things to your bore, Fact! NEWS FLASH shooting is bad for your bore! Film at 11.

For anyone who has lapped a bolt in, using 220 grit lapping compound it takes a long time to remove .0005", so using JB which is estimated at 1200 grit (finer than your tooth paste) I think I would give up before I wore out the bore or my elbow.

Remember a barrel is a consumable, they will not last forever, not ment to.

As for the Ammonia, yes it removes copper, brass (a copper alloy) Bronze (also a copper alloy) and it CAN remove the COPPER that is in your barrel steel (alloy steels have a little bit of a lot of different stuff in them hence the word Alloy) a lot of people have moved away…no Ran away from the electrolytic cleaning…think about it.

I would like to suggest that you use what works for you (see #1) then take notes (see #2) and then keep it a secret, so this doesn't start all over again.

My 2 cents.

Martin
Badger Ordnance

Marty <A10XRifle@aol.com>
Kansas City, MO, USA - Tuesday, April 17, 2001 at 23:14:02 (ZULU) (your host address: 205.188.198.186)


Marty,

Guys remember this is not a flame war, this is a healthy discussion and debate over differing opinions
 

You want facts? Let me see what I can dig up here...

1) It would take millions upon millions of strokes to lap your lands off the grooves with JB's. Agreed.

2) It takes one stroke to alter the existing finish of the lands

I'm gonna take off on this one a little bit. What would you guys consider as excellent bore finish? Polished so nice and clean you can see your ugly mugs in?? When you drag the borescope thru, you see nothing but clear, glowing surface structure?? Perhaps an 8 micro or under?

We lap these barrels to the finish they should be. At least a 32, but not under 16. Barrelmakers aren't necessarily concerned with how polished the surface is, cuz it makes matters worse as far as burning up bores. Mrbullet, remember I told you the reasoning behind this, with the mirror finished bores. When we lap we are looking for a clean land, but moreso that the grain is in the direction of the travel of the bullet. We want the land and groove to have the same 'grain', this will impede bullet upset which leads to copper fouling. We lap them as much as they SHOULD be lapped, we know what finish we are looking for. When you introduce another abrasive, especially thru a soft patch, that destroys the finish we wanted, therefore the barrel fouls more, which leads to more cleanings, which leads to shorter barrel life.

3) take a closer look at the 5r profile, are you sure the corners are round?? like a dovetail with a radius?? That would be one hell uv a rifling cutter. A radiused profile is normally radiused at the intersection between the land and groove, makes more sense than that Newton rifling, with jacketed bullets. I would be interested in hearing your detailed description of the 5r profile structure, you seem to know, or think you know, more than I do about this (not a flame once again!!) I've made 5r's and I have yet to make a radiused land. The last time I made a rifling cutter, I ground the helix angle so the cutter WOULD not cut into the land, and radiused the top of the cutter so it would cut a radius into the groove. Maybe I'm all mixed up.. LOL..

4) Has anyone reduce the life of their barrel by using JB's? Everyone that's used it. Stick with solvents, more work but it'll last longer.

once again, this is not a flame in any way shape or form, please dont take it that way, it's all in fun

later
JR <jr_rcsd@hotmail.com>
rapid city, sd, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 00:08:50 (ZULU) (your host address: 208.34.14.24)


Mi Amigos, E mi amiga's........

As one of my favorite lines from the movies go, from Antonio Banderas goes, " Enough of theese cheet chat!!!".

I for one, am going with the folks from HART, and HS precision, and a couple of other NO names in the barrel business...."If you use abrasive cleaners in OUR tubes, you will have NO warranty".

Period, end of story........So, go fight City Hall.
If ANybody would WANT you to use this stuff, it seems it would be them...they have a LOT to gain....more barrel sales!!!!!.....

Pat, Sorry dude.....wrong story.......the 22-250, IS a 22-250, shooting 80 gr. Sierra pills.......molied
And windage is almost nil, as is elevation required.
Maybe, if Mike reads this he can repost, or hit you offline with the details.

Two Shoes
Makin' a JB's milkshake!!!!!
 

terry <tls8323@cs.com>
USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 00:42:03 (ZULU) (your host address: 64.12.104.28)


one note on 5r, which could be seen in the 'Hot Tips and Cold Shots' section of this site:

5r means 5 radials, 5 lands and 5 grooves. Not 5 radius lands. All, well I hate to say that cuz there could be a nut makin' something different, radiused barrels are radiused at the land/groove junction, have sharp sides and sharp corners. I could be dead wrong on this, but I'm sure I'm pretty close :)

Just don't want anyone to get mixed up here
JR <jr_rcsd@hotmail.com>
rapid city, sd, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 00:44:25 (ZULU) (your host address: 208.34.14.24)



JR,

Have you ever played with say: A 26" long GAIN TWIST Radial profile barrel, ending at 1:11.25 ratio or so. Either the five or ten land pattern? I'm too stupid to figure the start ratios.
 

Marty,
Welcome back! Do your scope rings really need lapping? YES ITS A SERIOUS QUESTION thats been bugging me for a while.
Or is it just a sinister ploy by Pablito to sap us of all stamina before a match?
I use mine OEM and have NO COMPLAINTS. BIG - BIG :-)
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

peteR <PNGREIFF@AOL.COM>
BIG CITY, BY-GAWD, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 01:17:48 (ZULU) (your host address: 64.12.102.52)


PeteR:

I can never tell if you are being serious or not, but first, all barrels have a radial profile, radial is land.

I've always considered gain twist barrels as 'shredders' to anything with a light jacket. You want fouling? check out the lands on a gain twist barrel. Gosh, it's been so long since I've cut a gain twist, I'd have to check my records to tell you where we'd start if you wanted to end up with 11.25".

Verified that it will be 75 degrees tomorrow, not 75 mph winds. whew!!
 

later

JR <jr_rcsd@hotmail.com>
rapid city, sd, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 01:47:35 (ZULU) (your host address: 208.34.14.24)


Pablito: did contact Tenebrex. It was 0530 local when I typed that comment about IR and what I meant wasn't what got typed. Thanks again.

Barrel life: long time back the original Springfield Armory did a test on a randomly selected M1. They intended to fire it until it no longer met service accuracy requirements. Not sure what cleaning procedure/interval used, but after 80,000 rounds they gave up and sectioned the barrel. Rifling was gone for 8 inches up the tube from the chamber. Not real sure what the standard was back then but the guys who say shoot it till it doesn't group are on the right track.
 

WR Moore <wrmoore2001@yahoo.com>
VA, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 01:53:49 (ZULU) (your host address: 158.106.50.3)


Yeeee-haw! Martin, how DARE you come here and talk about the scientific principles! You'll be a scientific outcast like CDC and I in a Yankee Central heartbeat (the time measured between a stoplight turning green and the guy behind you honking). All right, you got me to thinking. When I lapped my rings, I did a before and after measurement on my clearance between my rear sight and the scope lock ring. I lapped enough to bring that down almost 0.0005" (the needle was about half way between ticks), and I used the Sinclair lapping compound, for about 14 hours. Yup, about 14 HOURS, over many days. So now we step to the bore. First off, copper has a brinell hardness of heaven knows, 'cause I don't have a gin-you-wine copper penny anymore (thanks to.....). But I know the barrel steel is in the 30's on Rockwell scale, and that's much higher than a copper jacket. And with the rings, I was using a steel lapping bar, rather than a cloth patch. I ain't gonna say squat about what it does to a barrel, 'cause I'm no barrel maker, but I sure don't understand how it'll hurt a barrel. I'm also the proud owner of the scientific method handbook too. HA! Now then, the ONLY reason I went to JB's is 'cause it does a number on the hard carbon build up. And I do notice that it has to "settle in" after using it, but since I only do that about 3 times a year or so, who cares? If I ruin this Kreiger, well, it's just time for another one I guess. But everyone knows that I learn the best "the hard way". I'm basically taking Geoff and the UnDudes word for it. After all, they have to buy their own barrels too. As JR says though, this is open discussion, to find the BEST way. THERE IS NO FLAME INVOLVED HERE WHATSOEVER!!!!

Patron 'Lito: I understand that a slower bullet in the same bore eats less, but the question is how MUCH less. If we're talking the difference between 5230 rounds and 5412 rounds, who cares. If we're talking 5230 to 10,455 then I care! Oh, and just to throw this out, #9 has ammonia in it. #9 BR (which I use) has about 10 times as much ammonia in it. You're exactly right, it's 100% safe to leave in the barrel, but that's 'cause of it being the limiting reagent, not the excessive reagent.

Patron UnDude: you're the guy that got me into this JB's in the first place! I could have SWORN it was you shoving some of that down the tube of that Nighthawk about a year ago. You change your mind on this and now you clean a different way? If you've found the "better way" let me in!

Other observations: clocked some NATO 9 (FC in the military white box, the FOR REAL stuff) today, so I once again say that anyone that HAS to carry ball should carry a 1911. That stuff obviously couldn't get the shift from 2nd to 3rd gear correct. S&B ball: identical velocity, more variation in velocities. Both were 100+ fps slower than the same weight bullet loaded to SAAMI max spec. No wonder you guys say 9's suck.

Griff, my friend, you gave me the laugh of the week and then some! This guy has a *GREAT* story about his first meeting with THE MAN. Not sniper related in any manner, so I won't go into it. I laughed so hard, people came to see what was so funny. I've got a new term for Camero too! A very hearty thanks!

Brewing "taste test" kegs (2 gallons) is great for trying different recipies, but it's heck for making "beer deficits". Tonight, we feast on too-damned-expensive fresh NewCastle from the state liquor store! To give credit where it's due, Utah isn't so bad after all. I didn't think anyone here had the intelligence to buy (and therefore stock) GOOD beer LOL. Must be all us "out of staters" HA! Now to go find a sheep.
Boomhauer Dammit! <Bravo762@yahoo.com>
Arlen, The Republic Of Texas, United Socialist States of America - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 01:53:57 (ZULU) (your host address: 209.180.85.196)


As long as this high-priced talent is discussing barrel cleaning, I've got a question. I use a brush wet with Shooter's to scrub out the black (carbon?) fouling, patch it out with spray carb cleaner, dry it then patch out the copper with Sweet's. I patch that out with more carb cleaner, dry it, then run a patch Hoppe's gun oil through.

Aside from the obvious caution about not letting the Shooter's and the Sweet's mix, do any members of this impressive assembly of barrel specialists have any comments?

CDC' <criscurt@isu.edu>
USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 02:21:05 (ZULU) (your host address: 134.50.253.13)


LB,

I am under the impression that SS barrels, are in the 19-22 Rockwell scale......no where near thutty........((:
This is why you should be vewy kewful wid your cleaning rods....
Brass the jag is made of, is harder than the steel(SS)..suface hardness.
Also, Aluminium is harder than your barrel steel........as in the cheapo rods.........( surface hardness).

A lot of folks, think this ain't possible....

Go figure, is this an oxymoronski or what?......

Mulling over the meaning of cleaning.......

Two Sopatos
Flame Away!!!!!!
Terry <tls8323@cs.com>
USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 02:28:08 (ZULU) (your host address: 152.163.213.211)


Hello Hogs, been lurking about. I see everyone is disagreeing in harmony LOL!!!
JB'S-
When the big discussion was going on here a LOOONG time ago about the stuff, and I was but a little lurker dude (like that has changed much) I decided that I would give it a try. I didn't use it much (cleaned barrel with it and then Hoppes four or five times), and I think I will be throwing it away now.

Question for you barrel maker types:
How much metal have I removed from the barrel? Got a lot of long range work to get into this spring and this discussion is worrying me a bit.

In the past I have always had good break in results by pullin a gun out of the box, clean and lube, and shoot a bunch of FMJ. I may just stick with that from now on. The "works for me" method!!

Speaking of metallurgy...
Been talking with my brother in law the welder, we are going to be doing some steel targets (plate rack, a couple gongs for 600 and 800 yards, and a couple pepper poppers) to go along with the new berm work. I seem to remember a discussion on metallurgy and gongs/plates/poppers. Fun times ahead!! If someone with a better midterm memory could be so kind, what month was that? I would like to dig that stuff up out of the archives, but danged if I can remember when or who!! Anyone that remembers or has specs/info hit me offline please?

Thanks everyone and take care..

Geoff M <kill@internetwis.com>
Green Bay , Packer Country!!, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 02:53:01 (ZULU) (your host address: 209.207.52.113)


Gooch didn't tear down a Tabasco that was my buddy Andy Weber of Armament Technology. He reported that what he found wasn't very impressive or reasuring.

Marty. Sorry I didnt get with you in KCMO. I kept getting tied up with NRA types and before I knew it I was back on the road.

dudes, I aint blowing this site off. I've been asshole to belly button on this range project.

dooby dooby doo

Out here
Gooch <goochkw@riflemen.net>
USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 02:57:05 (ZULU) (your host address: 209.214.52.119)


JR..Run the test!!!!!!!!
 

CDC..We have more in common than big lead bullets & 19lls..Used Hoppes #9 growing up but have used Shooters' choice and Sweets in pretty much the same fashion as you do for more years than I can remember..I patch out the solvents with "Brakleen" though. I will periodically[sp?] hit a bore with JBs if it's had a bunch of rounds through it [prairie dog shooting] And have used it in a couple of new factory barrels over the years that initially seemed to foul pretty badly...It seemed to help IMHO, but what do I know, I'm sold on 1911s and would rather shoot than clean any day!!!
 

JR run the test!!!!
 

Bravo...Final verdict on your Springfield????
 

PeteR..Banish me if you will but I couldn't resist the new 77CR in .223 with its' 161/2" bbl..Should be here Friday with new 2x7 Compact to top it ..Guess I did need another truck gun! DEtails to follow for you truck gun[not Ruger] fans.

outa here
Markwell <markwell@hardynet.com>
Adding up the .223s[and it's getting out of control] in the Alleghenies, WV, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 03:22:05 (ZULU) (your host address: 209.181.149.20)


All,

Thanks for the info on the ammo. I think I'll keep clear of the Sovietski ammo.
You know the strange thing is, there is so many different makers of this stuff one really has to wade through it all to find the really good stuff.
Another wierd question. I saw (in NV) some AP, API, and APIT, fot the 5.56! I have to ask, why didn't I see that stuff when I was in the Corps? My guess is that it doesn't work as advertised. Some had silver tips, some had silver tips with red bands.
What I am looking for is some 62gr NATO stuff that doesn't cost an arm and a leg that shoots decently and is absolutely 100% reliable. Yeah, yeah, I want my cake and I wanna eat it too.

.50 Ammo,

We (a friend and I) bought 100 rounds of .50 AP at Sacramento Armory. They delinked it with a mallot, and all the stuff stamped in the 40's were duds. We took a couple of duds apart and found WATER in them. The base of the bullets were green and the cores rusty.
You know I used to buy a lot of stuff there. Thier customer service is sub standard now and so is some of the stuff they sell. I was very sad to see a local gun landmark end up like that. We paid $1.68 a round. Just FYI guys.

Semper Fi!

Bad Karma
 

Bad Karma <jwhiteii56@hotmail.com>
USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 03:31:23 (ZULU) (your host address: 209.79.209.152)


Markwell,

Holy geez mang!! I am running the test, but I gotta make sure I have all my info in order due to all the knowledgeable peeps on this site. They'll rip me to pieces!! Plus, I don't think they'd appreciate it at work if all I did was scrub barrels all day. :) I have to locate fouled and unfouled barrels, spend some time scrubbin' barrels, then hours on end with the borescope and airgages. Check a previous post, barrel makers are slow and smooth. You'll get yer steenking test. As redundant as it is.

chao

]

JR <jr_rcsd@hotmail.com>
rapid city, sd, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 03:44:58 (ZULU) (your host address: 208.34.14.24)


JR...I have a new take off .243 model 7 Rem. bbl I'll donate to the cause if it will help..let me know..
 

outa here again
Markwell <markwell@hardynet.com>
Watching it SNOW in the Alleghenies and hoping for Spring for real this time around, WV, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 03:56:16 (ZULU) (your host address: 209.181.149.20)


ALL HOGS ON DECK! Sheepies, Black Helos, and Blue Helmets!!!!!!

OK HOGS, NOW THAT I GOT YER ATTENTION,

Got word tonight that Reade Range in central PA is going to try to start shooting F-Class! If youz guyz could help me out, I'd much appreciate it.

Right now I was told that they would shoot 600 yards 2 sighters and 20 for record on the regular 600yd MR-1 tgt, any front rest -NO REAR REST, any sight, max boolet dia 8mm (Sorry Lito, no .50's), Max rifle weight of 14.5 pounds, and no muzzle breaks or BOSS units.

Need to know how it is really done, and what is the proper target to use. Any rules, etc. we need to follow to do it right. The guy that wants to run them used to shoot a lot of high Power, but the eyes and body don't cooperate no more.....he may or may not want to do it the right way! I promised to get info from those who've BTDT and won the whole shootin match, so that we can maybe start off the right way.

Thanks,
Steve (hockyref) <s_uhall@riflemen.net>
Fricking snowing in, South west PA, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 04:03:35 (ZULU) (your host address: 151.201.122.140)


Bro Two Shoes,
Now I have to admit that it's been almost 15 years since I was in the a Metallurgy lab, but I could swear that surface hardness was measured by the Vickers scale with mucho smaller impressions made during the test than for a Rockwell hardness test.

No flame Terry, jut that younz guys got me racking my brain for some knowledge that's gotten really dusty. You may be right on the surface vs Rockwell hardness. I know I'm getting old if I can't remember some of this stuff -
- NO comments about CRS Syndrome, OK????
 

Steve (hockyref) <s_uhall@riflemen.net>
Now just cold and wet, in South West PA, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 04:35:26 (ZULU) (your host address: 151.201.137.88)


Palm Pilot Software:

Refresh my memory, guys: Who makes the tactical rifle software for the Palm Pilot PDA? Anybody got a URL?
 
 

-Tom
 
 
 
 

Tom Simpson <bullet@sc.rr.com>
Colatown, SC, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 04:51:28 (ZULU) (your host address: 24.88.84.155)


Pat...... I think that we're on the same page on this. I've always used Ackley's logic on the overbore capacity thing (got it directly from him in the late '60's). Bore-capacity is constantly changing with innovations in propellant and other factors that effect the load like bullet weight and bearing surface, rate-of-twist, and even primer composition. Cartridges such as the 7mmRM and the .300WM, just to mention two, are not thought as near overbore capacity now, as they were over three decades ago. It just depends on the variables. After all, John C. Holmes was certainly "overbore capacity" for most women (thankfully), but he sure wasn't for some o' them wimmen in his films!

PeteR..... I didn't say that you "can't" shoot chucks with a .264, I was sayin' that a prudent man (or woman)probably "shouldn't" do it, at least on a regular basis. BTW - my neatest 'crowplosion' was achieved with a 52gr. Speer (Big)Hollowpoint coming out of my .220 Swift at a chronographed 3965fps. E-mail for the load if you want to.

Boomhauer... I don't want to be presumptious and speak for JR, but I think that what he was describing happens when a patch loaded with JB
is being pushed down a bore and suddenly hits a copper deposit is sort of like what happehs when you try to hone a cylinder that is oval, barrel-shaped, or tapered. The hone follows the deformity! So does the patch!

Bad Karma..... Try S&B 5.56 SS109 Green Tip NATO stuff. Not the cheapest but totally reliable (in my experience) and pretty accurate for SS109 anyway.
 

ALAN <asimon@gj.net>
Colorado, Alferd Packer Country, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 05:18:35 (ZULU) (your host address: 216.169.77.170)


Final coments on JB Paste - If you have a quality match barrel that was broken in correctly, you should never need to use JB. I personally use Barnes CR-10 for carbon and light copper (also does a job on molly). Will JB ruin a bore, I personally dought it, again everyone shoud note it is the Benchrest guys that made it famous, JB stands for Jim Broabst ?Sp? Who was a big Benchrest shooter a while back, If it ruined barrels the benchrest crowd would not use it.

JB Paste is best suited for those barrels that no matter how hard you try wont break in (normally factory) , and always copper foul. JB makes short work of removing it and keeps your finger on the trigger and rounds going down range like they should be.

JR - 5R Barrels do have a radius that comes off the land that formes a groove without the sharp corners. Marty and I looked at several with a borescope last night, So I can absolutly comfirm this. Becouse of the radius the bullet is able to seal better and carbon is not shoved into the land-groove corner like conventional rifling. I love these barrels and use them exclusivly. I will get Mike Rock to post a quick thread on the topic so everyone can understand the theroy behind it. There was a good artical in "Accurate Rifle" 1st issue. Somone quized Boots Obermeyer on the subject.

Back to building shooting sticks.

George
 

George Gardner, G.A. Precision <A10XRifle@aol.com>
Kansas City, MO, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 09:02:28 (ZULU) (your host address: 209.248.155.66)


Results of the Q&A with Boots Obermeyer and Jack Krieger...

Observation: Boots can definitely get off a tangent without any prompting from anyone, but his tangents were just as informative.

Boots Obermeyer was there to discuss reloading, and Jack Krieger was there to discuss barrel making, so I had to limit what I asked each one.

I asked Boots, for .308, what his favorite powder, primer, bullets, and brass was for reloading. His favorite powder is Varget, and his favorite brass is Lapua. Then he went off on a tangent and never got to primer and bullets.

Boots also likes moly coating, but said that moly coated bullets were more sensitive to seating depth, as they didn't always result in the same amount of friction once they started moving and contacting the rifling, causing inconsistent pressure curves, resulting in vertical stringing. Therefore, said it was very important not to seat out to touching the lands when using moly. Said seating back a bit gives the powder a bit more of a chance to ignite uniformly from shot to shot, giving more consistent pressure curves.

I asked Boots what the most critical thing was in regards to accuracy - bullet sorting, case sorting, case prep, powder sifting, etc... His answer was that range time was the biggest factor in achieving accuracy, and not to waste so much time being anal at the reloading bench - spend that time at the range shooting instead.

Boots' answer to the 5R question - 5R rifling isn't necessarily more inherently accurate, but is more uniform over time. He also said that 5R barrels tend to last longer, and that they have less carbon fouling, but more copper fouling, suggesting that the bullet may be able to scrape more carbon out of the corners of the rifling due to the shallower angles involved.

I asked Jack Krieger about cleaning. He uses Sweets on a patch because it's quick and allows more time for shooting. He doesn't bother with bore brushes, because he feels the patches with Sweets and some soak time does an adequate job. He also has no problems with leaving a little copper in the barrel, as long as you don't allow it to build up. Said he didn't see any point in removing all the copper if you had to shoot fouling shots to re-deposit what you just wasted time removing.

I also asked Jack Krieger about JB's bore paste. Says he uses it, as well as Rem Clean and Gold Medallion. He says to avoid exiting the muzzle, as you can easily destroy your crown with the stuff. He says he likes to short stroke his barrels with JB’s, 5-10 inches at the breach end, in order to polish off the stress erosion that forms there. He showed a video from a bore scope, and what he called stress erosion looked like an old road begging to be repaved - a bunch of micro cracks all over. Thinks JB’s will allow a barrel to last longer by keeping the stress erosion in check and smooth. I specifically asked him if the use of JB’s voids his warrantee, and he said it did not.

Jack Krieger also talked about cryogenics, and lost me at a few spots. He did say that the purpose was to get a more homogeneous and uniform steel, something about artificially aging the steel to convert austinite to martensite. Anyway, he said it wouldn't result in a longer barrel life, but it does reduce stresses created by an undesirable balance of austinite and martensite by converting one to the other. And by reducing these stresses using cryo, he gets a straighter ream, and thus a straighter bore in his barrels.

Anyway, I tried to take notes as best I could. Hope I didn't screw up too bad, and hope the info is of use.

I wish to publicly thank both Boots Obermeyer and Jack Krieger for taking time out of their busy schedules to give us an education. It was an honor to meet them both.
 

MikeL <mlitscher@wi.rr.com>
Brew City, WI, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 10:12:21 (ZULU) (your host address: 65.25.160.112)


Guys, (including the Ruuu,Ruuug owner in By-Gawd)

AWESOME POSTS! I am more thankful than you can imagine.

Keep it coming. This is what makes S/C totally Rock the community
 

JR,
Serious Post, I meant the 10X/5R type rifling. Are Sierra Match Kings in the "Too Skinny" jacket category? 75 degrees man I'm freezing in my Carhart.
 

ofta work :-(
 

Chao

new age language for the day:
crowsplosion - obvious
CATSPLOSION (a Ha! for "He who stalks at night" in CT)
peteR <PNGREIFF@AOL.COM>
Big City, By-Gawd, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 10:59:09 (ZULU) (your host address: 205.188.196.21)


Guys,

i am long out of playing with puppets, but this guy is on my wish list just to have him standing on my desk.

t

Sniper figure, click here ! <7.62@lasercon.de>
germany - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 11:07:53 (ZULU) (your host address: 62.224.19.211)


Ref: Barrel Cleaning

Several strokes with a Hoppies soaked brush followed by two or three Hoppies soaked patches. Let the bore marinate overnight. Push a Hoppies soaked patch through. Let marinate again. Push a Hoppies soaked patch through. If there is any green on the patch repeat as necessary. With my Hart barrels I never have a problem "getting the green out". Surface finish is a factor I guess.

I dry out my bore when finished. This way I know my condidions for a cold bore shot. I guess I've been pretty lucky because I've never had much variance from cold bore to fouled bore POI.

When the rifle stops grouping well consider replacing the barrel. As someone said earlier, "Barrels are consumables."

By the way, I use a "Patch Hog". It is a great device and keeps things neat.

I've attended a number of 1,000 yard benchrest matches. The cleaning rituals are pretty complex. It is interesting to note that almost every shooter has his own method which is slightly different from the next guy.

Ref: Accurate Rifle Magazine

This last issue was interesting. The Marines in the Recce. outfit have just about all the gee-wizz gear you could imagine. One interesting item was a wrist mounted commercial GPS...mmmmmm...got me thinking. I guess I'm just a "gear queer". Time to come out of the closet on that.

Ref: Gooch

Good to hear from you. We know you're busy but when you don't write and don't call we get to thinking you don't love us anymore. ;-)
Hopefully when you've got that range completed we can come on down to 'bama and make a lead deposit.

out
Kevin R. Mussack (Andy's Dad) <kmussack@aol.com>
Clifton Springs, New York, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 11:40:48 (ZULU) (your host address: 64.80.33.70)


Mr.Steve, the Hockeyref,
Vickers, smickers!!....Rockwell, as in Norman.......
I wouldn't know the difference tween the two, much less "I forgot it', never knew it.....
These little tidbits came from Speedy Gonzales.
And he forgot more about barrels, and cleaning than I'll ever know.
So, I just passed along the wisdom that was freely given.
Truth or Fiction?.....dunno......just smart enough to know on my own, that EITHER rod will ruin a crown, and damage a throat.
If it's not used properly.
And Alewminnium, doesn't belong anywhere in a shooters kit.....for cleaning.
So, you are more n likely correct mi amigo, on the hardness measurement procedures..

Two Shoes
Dos Sopatos
Terry <tls8323@cs.com>
USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 12:26:01 (ZULU) (your host address: 205.188.192.59)


Boomfracker...
I didn't say "slower" I said "same" speed.
A 30-06 shooting a 175SMK at 2700, and a .308 shooting a 175SMK at 2700... the '06 will last A LOT LONGER... it's not the bullet that wears out the barrel, it's the flame (temperature x pressure x exposure time) that does it... you lower the temperature and pressure by 10%, and you may double or triple the barrel life.
Also, remember that there's a difference between lappin' rings, and abrasive in a barrel.
When you lap rings, the abrasive rolls like a pebble in a stream, and the cutting is very slow (like 14 hours to 100% white), but when you draw the abrasive across the surface the cutting (polishing!), and plenty faster... I can "lap" a pair of MK4's or Badgers (yes Marty, we do yours too), in about 6 to 10 hours, but I can "polish" the same rings with 600 then 1200, to 100% white in 20 minutes, ring tops too.
 

Steve (hockypuck)...
>"NO comments about CRS Syndrome, OK????"<
I was gonna make a comment, but I forgot what it was!

What town is the "Reade Range" near... keep us posted.
I might come to it...but 14.5 pounds... a friggin featherweight riffle!
 

Torsten...
It's OK for men to have dollies these days... it's touchie-feelie, dude-ski.
When you find a source, get me one too... I wanna be a "NOW" kinda guy, too ;)

What happened to the "Sniper fu" teeshirts?? Did my customs snag them??

'lito
 

Pablito <condor@mags.net>
USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 13:02:36 (ZULU) (your host address: 208.249.180.66)


All this JB talk is making me thirsty. I'll have mine on the rocks with a twist. Oh wrong liquid !!!

I like to clean my rifles the school way. Clean the action. Clean the chamber. Clean the barrel every 3000 rounds or so unless you've been swimming with it. This way you always know how the cold bore will shoot. And log it....
TonyY <ayackowski@pershing.com>
Woodbridge, NJ, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 13:20:08 (ZULU) (your host address: 32.97.88.102)


Morning Hogs..
Its hard to believe we have been discussing a subject with so many different views and no one has flamed anyone!!!!!! Way to go guys!!!

Alan..
We do agree, I sometimes think it would be interesting to try some of the old wildcats with the new powders we have today.

Geoff..
If you have a factory barrel don't even give it a 2nd thought. JBs won't hurt them, there already junk(HA). I use it on my factory barrels to break them in or when I get a used rifle I clean it up with JBs.

I like it for a new factory rifle because it gets down in there and cleans out the machine oil and crap thats left in there during the forging process and test firing, I hate to start off breaking in the barrel right over all that crap as a base.

I think what JR and the rest of us are talking about is the after market barrels. These are as smooth as a glass and clean up in a snap.

I guess what made a believer out of me was when I used it on my Hart barrel as a test after talking to Gary Schneider (Schneider Barrels). There was a definate difference in the fouling until it "Seated" back in again so I know it has to be doing something in there. I see no reason to use it for other than the occasional very heavy fouling or in factory rifles with rough bores. Just my 2 cents worth.

On Sweets 7.62 eating up barrels, once again I don't know, but I took a piece of a stanless barrel that I use as a seating depth gauge and dropped it into a film canister full of Sweets and let it set for a week and could see no difference in it at all. I know this is not scientific by any means but it came out just as shiny and smooth as the day I put it in.
Pat <mrbullet@hotmail.com>
USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 13:37:05 (ZULU) (your host address: 207.41.18.3)


Sran/Bravo, yes you saw me useing JB and I used to use it on every cleaning. That was up to about a year ago when I heard all this crap that has frankly made me back off. I am not a bbl maker. I do not know metal or how it reacts to different things, so when several bbl makers say bad stuff I use caution. I still use JB but not everytime and not on every rifle. When I shoot High Power, I still use Molly and the only way I have found to get that crap back out is with JB and that penetrating oil Kroil so in that application I use it. Once all the Molly is out I use Hoppes BR to get the JB out. Kroil to get the Hoppes BR out and just a plain gun oil to protect the bore. NO Teflon based crap ever goes in my rifle bbl.

For sniper stuff I dont use Molly and the darn bbls I use are so smouth inside I dont need JB to get the copper out, unless I have shot a shit load and am too tired to wait for the cooper removers to work. Such as I shot 100 plus rounds and want to get the rifle clean quick so I can have a beer or six with the guys. Then I use the JB. When I go to the once or twice a week range shoots I clean with good old Hoppes BR, Shooters Choice and Sweets. Followed by a wipe out with Hoppes Number 9 and then a light oil to make certain I did not leave anything in the bore that will hurt it. JB's is my lazy way when I have damm slings to make or she who must be listened too starts yelling we have to go somewhere.

While we are at it I use a light grease on the locking lugs. I like Rig Stainless Steel Lube or the good old Plasti Lube for M14's for this.

I have not seen a problem with JB's so I still use it but I have started to be more cautious with it. On the having to break in the bbl again after useing JB's. From what I have seen I think this is BS! BUt honestly I have not spent nights wondering if my bbl is going to look like crap if I use JB's. My old M40 McMillan Rifle has had many a bottle of JB's down the bore and it saw 10,000 rds before I stopped counting on it. Honestly I gave up on it because if I missed with that many logged rounds some "Expert" would have killed me in court for not replacing it. I dont have the heart to f with my old McMillan rifle so it stands as is.

Bravo clear on this now?

Undude
MikeMiller <Tactical@tacticalintervention.com>
Calif, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 13:54:08 (ZULU) (your host address: 148.165.85.148)


Does anybody know where Savage gets their laminate stocks. I love the 12BVSS but since they don't make one in a left handed model I thought I would find the stock supplier and see if they make one. Has anybody done this? Also, why don't they make the for 10FP in left handed with the .260? You can get the lefty in 7-08 but not .260.

Others have suggested the custom shop, but that is probably expensive, which negates why I would buy this rifle to begin with. If I went custom I would have Michelle Gallagher's Stolle with a Krieger or Obermeyer in 6.5-284 clothed in McMillan. That girl shot a 4.5" x 6.5" group in the 1000 yard shoot off last year for the Wimbledon cup....prone with a sling! Not long ago that would have been a decent benchrest group.
Todd <reaboy@cfu.net>
USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 14:26:03 (ZULU) (your host address: 192.43.65.245)


Ken: You seem to have put an end to the pie fights thus improving this site's tone and content. You did good.

CDC' <criscurt@isu.edu>
USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 14:33:58 (ZULU) (your host address: 134.50.253.13)


Mike L thanks for sharing all the great intel from Boots Obermeyer and Jack Krieger. It was interesting since I'm currently in the market for a short 308 barrel job.
TonyY <ayackowski@pershing.com>
Woodbridge, NJ, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 14:35:29 (ZULU) (your host address: 32.97.88.102)
Peter R

My ring don't need lapping, but you action mighr make the base crooked which will make my rings crooked. Like a house, its all in the foundation.

JR...NOT a flame...NOT a flame...its ok, just opinions.

As i said do what works for you (thats all of you, nnor just JR)
and keep it a secret. cuts down on the whinning!

Gooch, sorry we did not hok up, see ya.

Kepp it dry everybody

Marty
martin <badgerord@aol.com>
USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 15:07:47 (ZULU) (your host address: 209.126.30.131)


Some thoughts on barrels and things, and a couple opinions:
I have made a couple dozen button rifled barrels, nothing to make me an expert but enough to have gleaned some knowledge of the process. The plastic deformation induced by buttoning is tremendous and the stresses must subsequently be removed by annealing before contouring. If this is not done the muzzle will flare open and you have a microscopic blunderbuss effect. I do not know if the cut rifled guys anneal after rifling or not, but they could do so at much lower temps and maintain a higher Rc hardness...most buttoned bbls I checked ran in the mid 20's. I also checked these on a twist rate machine, and ran a few Shilens and one of JR's bbls as well. JR's twist rate was essentially a straight line....no variation. Every buttoned bbl had variation, and it is thought that a slight gain twist was to be preferred. Some twists gained and some slowed and some went all over. I do not know what this proves... other than twist varies on the ones I checked. I have 1 Hart that is pure magic and regret not checking it's twist rate. B-R guys all use fat barrels... and when 'sniper rifles' were in their infancy it seems the developers followed the cue of B-R and went Hart/fat bbls. Perhaps the potential belling of the muzzle is one reason for fat bbls besides the vibration and robustness/steadiness angle. Lapping: I would hate to count on doing a good job to a chambered/finished bbl. You WILL flare the breech/muzzle unless you are very careful/skilled/lucky. For factory bbls I do like fire lapping. I think JR's point about laying the surface finish down is an area for good discussionand may end up the main variable of the cleaning debate. I personally do use Rem Clean, but I do not clean except every hundred or 200 rounds, whether that takes 1 weekend or a month. Accuracy: There seems to be 2 distinct expectations of the people on this site and they differ and should be diferentiated when discussing things. Let's call them 'BR' types who fight for any gain in the sub MOA and 'field' types who are after realistic field accuracy. Both are valid and no flames at either but they do differ when discussing what works/does not and what is important or not. Boots was quoted as saying to develop accuracy go shoot more and spend less time at reloading. From what I know of the man he is a hi-power type, so anything that maintains 1 MOA for every shot works for him. What is important is learning to hold and direct every shot under conditions. The BR guys must do this too but have much more steadiness using a bench. Where I shoot prone/bipod is the main method and this approaches BR steadiness. Ideally we would combine the approaches but the cost in time is an individual tradeoff each must make. Boots' comment on geting mollied to 'hold elevation' is the heart of my reloading efforts as I fall into the 'field' category. When using either a rest or bipod you have drastically changed the meaning of 'trigger control'in shooting. I use this term in connection with the blending of the mental/physical aspect of the eyes seeing, the brain registering and then commanding the finger to act. Much different between supported/unsupported positions. Lapping rings has come up again... I do not see how it can do anything but help. There are 4-5 parts you want to get into alignment and that is very tough to do unless you lap after assembly. The reciever, 1 or 2 bases, and 2 rings. Without making any judgement on the necessity to have them all aligned, I really do not see how they could be aligned without lapping even when the rings themselves are 'perfect'. Hope some of this was interesting...
brand <brandx375@yahoo.com>
Tx, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 15:31:00 (ZULU) (your host address: 208.193.186.54)
Brand..
I for one enjoyed your thoughts and agree with some of what you said. I know what Boots is saying but I still feel the need to have the best most consistant components available. If I throw one or miss I want it to be my fault not something I didn't forsee or can't control. I have found the biggest cause of "Flyiers" usually to be the brass.

I can take the same rifle and use different brass and the same exact loads and the better brass will consistantly group and shoot better. I can take factory Laupa and it will shoot right with my sorted, neck turned, primer pocket cut brass and thats saying a lot. I had trouble getting consistant groups out of my 260 with Remington brass then I sized down some of my 308 Laupa and it was a different rifle.

I think the attention to detail is very important esp. the further out you go. Things like bullet run out, extreme spreads and brass inconsistancy really start to show up then
 

Pat <mrbullet@hotmail.com>
USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 16:30:08 (ZULU) (your host address: 207.41.18.3)


Anyone,

Best low profile, no snag, night sights for Springfield Compact .45? Also need recommendation for a good smith in northern VA to do the work. Thanks.
Paul <paulcockerham@att.net>
Reston, VA, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 17:20:24 (ZULU) (your host address: 216.173.17.78)


Brand, I read your post and agree with some of it, but on the lapping of rings I say no. I say buy the best and dont worry about it. Now I sue nothing but Badger rings and bases so I may be biased, since they are perfect as they come from the factory. This is how they are made. Bases are machined to all the same dimensions. The rings are paired and cut at the same time so they are as close as a machine can get them. Now certainly you can lap them but why?

The lapping bar you will use will have a compound on it that is layered by how ever clsoe you can make it.

The bar itself is cut on a similar machine to the one Badger uses so the tolerences should be about the same.

You will but uneven pressure on the bar as you slide it back and forth so that is a new varible

The scope may or may not have a perfectly straight tube but have you ever checked that?

Either way tollerences add up but when it is all said and done what have you gained with lapping? Has anyone seen a vast improvement from lapping? My rifles all shoot better than anyone here so why bother?

So the trade off is who will put in more added tolerence, you lapping away or two machine cuts. I will stick with the two machinecuts for my sniper rifles. I have never had a problem and fell I will improve my shooting far more with trigger time thanlapping time.

I can see why you would lap crappy rings to make them closer but get the good stuff and call it quits.

I think far to much has been made of this.

Dope it
Dial it
Dump it

Undude
MikeMiller <Tactical@tacticalintervention.com>
Calif, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 18:09:26 (ZULU) (your host address: 148.165.85.148)


Ref: Videos

I bought a couple of videos through the Military Book Club a short while back. Andy and I watched them with great anticipation. The shotgun video made at Gun Site was pretty good but the Sniper thing was "the Yawn Patrol"....It was all about the police comp. held in Florida. There wasn't any training value to the video at all.

I know there is a review section here but I wanted to ask you guys. Are there any Sniper videos worth a hoot as far as training goes? What videos have you found to be worthwhile?

It just started snowing here....eeeeeaaaachhhhkkkkkkkkkkkk!!!!

out
Kevin R. Mussack (Andy's Dad) <kmussack@aol.com>
Clifton Springs, New York, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 19:45:13 (ZULU) (your host address: 64.80.33.70)


Bad Karma,

Only saw your note about the SA 5.56 ammo. As I've said before, I will not have much to do with the current SA military, and as such I cnanot say much for their ammo either.

But, when I was in the military (87/88) I went through many rounds. Being an officer had certain advantages. When a day was over at the range we had our troops load all the broken boxes of ammo in whatever available magazines. And we let rip. Single-shot, semi-auto and full auto - nice feeling to let a 50-round magazine rip out at full auto. I shot many rounds (thousands) that way - and I NEVER had a misfire. And never when I was involved in range-work myself either. And I don't recall very many on the range from the troops either. There were some, but very, very few - but then, we were engaged in a war. Being artillery we probably didn't shoot as much as for example the infantry did, but I know I shot many thousands of rounds. And I'll lie if I say that at that time I was the best at properly looking after my rifle! :-(

I do know that the quality of PMP's commercial ammo has gone up quite dramatically, so I would find it strange if their military ammo has taken a nose-dive, but it is probably possible.

Hope your rifle just had a bad day, and that the rest shoot fine.

Marius
Marius <webmaster@snipercountry.com>
RSA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 19:51:07 (ZULU) (your host address: 155.239.180.95)


hi... could anyone with a fair first hand knowledge using the remington 300 ultra contact me, i have questions regarding accuracy, handload vs factory loads, and suitable downloads for practice. i just purchased a rem 700 in this caliber and am going to install a muzzle brake, are their any suggested suppliers, and should the barrel be cut at all, or just extended the length of the brake. thanks
dan hollister <georges@silcom.com>
goleta, calif, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 20:28:40 (ZULU) (your host address: 207.71.218.85)
Some random thoughts?.

While Jack Daniels and I were quietly sharing thoughts on barrel life as I perused the Machining Source Book (ASM), it struck me that there have been extraordinary advances in high temperature ceramic metal matrix compounds in the last few years, particularly the beryllium-ceramic complexes. With the ability to now HIP mold and machine these ceramic matrix materials to exceptionally fine tolerances, would it not be possible to manufacture a steel barrel with a metal-ceramic matrix insert in the breech end consisting of the chamber, leade and first few inches of the tube? I can envision an insert similar to the AR-15 barrel extension. The insert would absorb the majority of the superheated flame upon cartridge firing, shielding the steel of the barrel from the flame erosion that is so detrimental to barrels. You could even have addition sets of inserts to replace your eroded insert or change to different calibers having the same bolt face. I am not sure if a coating on a steel insert would be as effective as a solid CMM insert. Stainless barrel, carbon fiber outer wrap and ceramic insert. Whew?. We are rolling now! Just some thoughts.

T? saw the Elite Forces figure also. Very nice. Their Ranger figure is also fine. I am currently building a 1/6 scale A3 stocked Remington 700 for my wife's GI Joe sniper. Have the stock, action, barrel and scope made (Unertl). Also made a Mark 4 just in case. Scope mounts and trigger guard are a major pain. Waiting to buy a rotary table.

Patron' Lito and I had a difference of opinion on lapping a while ago while advising the Good Jen (Where is she BTW?? Did she get her system up and running?). I buy the best and don't lap. I'm hard on equipment and don't fret over scuffs and scrapes. That's why God made paint. The only way to do it is to assemble your system on the action and then machine lap the rings indicated off the bolt race. Then the rings are centered on THAT ACTION ONLY and you are done. You will need a slightly undersized ring set to make it work perfectly.

JB works great on factory barrels. Hart barrels don't need it, mine only lightly foul and Hoppes - Shooters Choice - Sweets work fine.

Be safe.
 
 
 

Bill0294 <lhardin21@netscape.net>
Clearwater , FL, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 22:32:07 (ZULU) (your host address: 24.92.204.172)


Bill,

Would the ceramic hold up to the immense pressures?? It might be hard as hell, but there is a tensile strength limit, both high and low, that needs to be considered at that end of the pipe. Too high, shatter your barrel, too low, split your barrel.

JR
 

JR <jr_rcsd@hotmail.com>
rapid city, sd, USA - Wednesday, April 18, 2001 at 22:47:59 (ZULU) (your host address: 208.34.14.24)


Some good news...
Senator Torracelli from New Joisey (a RABID anti-gun politician)... HA!... his world is falling apart. They have sworn affidavits from 7 and more coming about taking illegal brib money... the creep is going down :))

'lito
 

Pablito <condor@mags.net>
USA - Thursday, April 19, 2001 at 00:08:15 (ZULU) (your host address: 208.249.180.55)


It seems to me that the most useful part of the ring lapping kit is the two alignment bars of round stock. In my experience, limited as it is, when I have aligned good rings with the bar stock,there seemed no need for lapping(mis-alignment of bases and actions noted). No tell-tale scratches on any of my scopes, some lapped, some not. Damn I've learned a lot here.....'preciate it.
Mark Smith <Windinmane@aol.com>
Lake Cormorant, MS, USA - Thursday, April 19, 2001 at 00:16:02 (ZULU) (your host address: 205.188.197.153)
Paul....Novaks' are the only way to go IMHO....

outa here
Markwell <markwell@hardynet.com>
the Alleghenies, WV, USA - Thursday, April 19, 2001 at 01:42:01 (ZULU) (your host address: 209.181.149.20)


Yeah, Novaks. Use the dovetail front.

CDC' <criscurt@isu.edu>
USA - Thursday, April 19, 2001 at 01:57:59 (ZULU) (your host address: 134.50.253.13)


The following review of the FN Police rifle as forewardedby Walt Kuleck, webmaster for Fulton armory, whcih sells this rifle:
 

Folks,
Those who've been asking about the accuracy of the Fulton Armory Special
Police Rifle tactical bolt gun, here are the results, hot off the presses
from the July 2001 issus of Guns & Weapons for Law Enforcement:
Performance
Load Velocity Small Gp Lge Gp Ave
Black Hills 168 JHP 2652 0.28 0.51 0.39
Black Hills 175 JHP 2604 0.36 0.58 0.44
Federal 168 .308M 2598 0.42 0.54 0.48
Federal 165 Tactical 2696 1.16 1.43 1.34
Hornady 110 TAP 3168 0.55 0.61 0.58
Hornady 168 TAP 2707 0.40 0.64 0.42

Did you see that? 0.28 to 0.51 inches with Black Hills 168 JHP? Average of
five three-shot groups of .39 inches?
Unbelieveable!
With a CHROME BORE that will last a lifetime, heck, several lifetimes!
Clint ain't getting my sample back, no way, no how!
In stock, ready to ship!
Best regards,
Walt Kuleck
Fulton Armory Webmaster
http://www.fulton-armory.com
 
 

-Tom

Tom Simpson <bullet@sc.rr.com>
Colatown, SC, USA - Thursday, April 19, 2001 at 03:15:56 (ZULU) (your host address: 24.88.84.155)


Hermes 1 spotting scope

I received the IOR/Meopta Hermes 1 spotting scope with 20-45X ocular and the carrying bag two weeks ago. The scope is MARVELOUS :-)

I do not know whether Leupold 12-40X60 is better or worse than this scope, but I can not come up with any improvements. The picture quality is phenomenal, zoom works really well and focusing even better, all controls are in the ocular so you can cover the scope body any way you want to. I do not have a proper tripod yet so I have mostly been using it as hand held with 20-25X. The 45 grade angled ocular is just fine as it is. I can not wait until I get the proper tripod for it.

So if you are looking for a good compact spotting scope with a zoom, I can confirm that Hermes 1 is top notch. At least as good as Kowa 61X series, but waterproof and with a 70 mm lense :-)

I will keep my old Russian 20-50X50 compact spotting scope as a knock-about scope for field use, but if I want to see something really well I will bring my Hermes 1.
Hexa <juhola@luukku.com>
USA - Thursday, April 19, 2001 at 03:30:50 (ZULU) (your host address: 38.31.123.247)


Tom....... I was a bit confused by your last post :-). Was that a Fulton Police rifle that Walt was talking about or was it the FN Special Police that recently came out?
ALAN <asimon@gj.net>
PALISADE, COLORADO, USA - Thursday, April 19, 2001 at 04:06:08 (ZULU) (your host address: 216.169.65.228)
Lito'...........
Wunderfull......
Toricelli has had it coming for a long time.
And I hope he gets the full "Bubba", treatment.
Never ceases to amaze me....the most virulent anti's are usually the most corrupt.
Sorry for the off topic....but this is truly a "SPECIAL ", occasion.........(((:

Thanks for the update.

Two shoes
Terry <tls8323@cs.com>
USA - Thursday, April 19, 2001 at 04:30:56 (ZULU) (your host address: 205.188.199.58)


Mr. UnDude said: "JB's is my lazy way when I have damn slings to make....". Mike, I hope you wait for a better frame of mind before you start on mine:)))).

FN Herstal Special Police Rifle
Leupold Vari-X III 8.5 - 25 X 40 scope
Leupold Standard bases & rings (Win M70, rev. rear)
Harris SBRM Bipod, 6" - 9" with notched legs
TIS Precision Model One Sling w/Armcuff Upgrade
(This item ordered, see note above)

I have only fired 96 rounds with this rifle. Several different loads and the best groups (the last 4 groups, 4 shots each) were with Federal GM308M2 (175 gr. SMK). Four shot groups because that's what the magazine holds. More about that in a moment. Trigger is 6 1/2 to 7 pounds, and will be attended to shortly.

Groups fired from sandbags on concrete bench at 100 yards. I haven't converted to decimal (no interest in math), but the outside measurements are: 1/2" (1), 9/16" (2) and 5/8" (1). Subtract a bullet diameter from those to get group size. Not bad for an old plinker, if I do say so myself.

Now, about the magazine. This rifle has no hinged floorplate, the bottom of the mag protrudes slightly from the stock, with the release in front of the mag well.