March 20, 1999 to March 23, 1999
If anybody remembers my asking for help with the designated marksman
program in my unit, here's an update. I submitted it in a monthly report
that ends up at our commander's desk. So far it has been looked upon favorably,
a couple people with some pull have expressed enthusiasm. Now it's a waiting
game. I got alot of inputs out of this site, so thanks once again.
Darren <darren.malott@mildenhall.af.mil>
USA - Saturday, March 20, 1999 at 00:52:31 (ZULU)
JFW <JACKWILSON@ANGLEFIRE.COM>
FT. WORTH, TX, USA - Saturday, March 20, 1999 at 01:14:37 (ZULU)
ok just to clear something up, I realize I tripped up somewheres in a post, harmonics doesn't start when you pull the trigger, that has to do with YOU pulling the gun, human error. But harmonics does not start with the chamber and end with the muzzle. It starts with the priming of the projectile then back to the rear of the action then back to the barrel. Which is why you need your torque set at 65 inch/lbs. which is why the recoil lug must be snug with the stock. which is why the barrel must be free floated. Every thing must be stiffened to ensure a stable flight. Why does accurizing an action, which I have frequently been called on to do, create better accuracy? You lap the bolt head lugs and the bolt face, big deal, right? Well you lap the lugs until they are flush with the receiver, and lap the bolt face to ensure a flat, perfectly flush fit with the ass end of the cartridge, which means stiffer action. hope this creates further discussion, I am lovin' it. Barrelmakers dream.
JR
rapid city, sd, USA - Saturday, March 20, 1999 at 01:51:33 (ZULU)
ok just to clear something up, I realize I tripped up somewheres in a post, harmonics doesn't start when you pull the trigger, that has to do with YOU pulling the gun, human error. But harmonics does not start with the chamber and end with the muzzle. It starts with the priming of the projectile then back to the rear of the action then back to the barrel. Which is why you need your torque set at 65 inch/lbs. which is why the recoil lug must be snug with the stock. which is why the barrel must be free floated. Every thing must be stiffened to ensure a stable flight. Why does accurizing an action, which I have frequently been called on to do, create better accuracy? You lap the bolt head lugs and the bolt face, big deal, right? Well you lap the lugs until they are flush with the receiver, and lap the bolt face to ensure a flat, perfectly flush fit with the ass end of the cartridge, which means stiffer action. hope this creates further discussion, I am lovin' it. Barrelmakers dream.
JR
rapid city, sd, USA - Saturday, March 20, 1999 at 01:53:58 (ZULU)
As far as fluting goes, if you take a barrel and add flutes to it you decrease the stiffness. If you remove any material from a cross section it reduces the stiffness. If you take two barrels with the same weight, the fluted one will be larger in diameter and therefore will have a larger stiffness. Another way of stating this is that for a given weight the fluted barrel will have a greater stiffness.
Surface area is not related in any way to stiffness, surface area only affects cooling.
As far as harmonics are concerned, the stiffness is related to the frequency of a system. The greater the stiffness the higher the frequency.
If anyone would like to see the exact calculations I can provide
them but it is a pain and I would appreciate everyone just taking my word
as far as general trends are concerned.
The Shooter <shooter@unix.tamu.edu>
College Station, TX, USA - Saturday, March 20, 1999 at 02:21:12 (ZULU)
I am a shooter, however. I do not claim to posess the ability of a large majority of the highly trained and experienced shooters that regularly read and post on the Roster.
I am not making any claims on how stiffness affects accuracy. Many people here have spent many hours experimenting and talking too others about how this topic relates to accuracy, they are much more qualified than I to discuss that specific subject. I am just trying to give a synopsis of basic engineering mechanics.
If anyone has any questions feel free to email me.
The Shooter <shooter@tamu.edu>
College Station, TX, USA - Saturday, March 20, 1999 at 06:32:11 (ZULU)
Bruce R. I have another thought for a new product, now if I could just get one of the idiots I have contracted to finish the slings they have started I can get going on the last thing. This will not be a problem as I am buying all my own machines and will be making them myself in a week or two. Bruce I think I need to pick your brain again for the new product.
Mike the Un Fixer
Mike M. <DMMDNLN@AOL.COM>
Calif, USA - Saturday, March 20, 1999 at 08:00:08 (ZULU)
Is any of this making since?
I've been tossing this idea around for a while now and would like to either take it a few steps more or have someone burn it down, or I'd like to hear of a better solution.
Just a thought.
It's late & I'm sick. Time for bed.
Nite-Nite all.
D. West <westforce@juno.com>
Can't sleep, in IL., USA - Saturday, March 20, 1999 at 10:41:17 (ZULU)
thanks
ide <ide2@earthlink.net>
USA - Saturday, March 20, 1999 at 11:05:00 (ZULU)
Anyone familiar with or have an opinion about the FIRE rail system for AR's?
Anyone familiar with or have an opinion about the Becker Patrol pack made by Eagle?
Bolt <mbolt34547@aol.com>
USA - Saturday, March 20, 1999 at 11:59:12 (ZULU)
I emailed Leopold directly, asking about /suggesting that a modified version of the Vari-X III LR M1/M3 to accept a sunshade would be a desirable thing...
The reply was that a threaded objective lock ring is in the works. The ommision of the threads was to permit military night-vision devices to be properly attached. No specific dates, but "perhaps later this year."
So, there's hope yet...
Rock <lnbright@juno.com>
TN, USA - Saturday, March 20, 1999 at 18:09:23 (ZULU)
On another list an engineer/architect did have one point that I had to grudgingly agree to. We were talking about barrels being cantilevered beams. He said that in "long spans" that if a solid beam were used its own weight would cause it to bend and would lessen its load bearing capacity. Therefore a much lighter I-beam could support more weight (i.e. stiffer). I don't know if our barrels qualify as "long spans" though. They do overhang many times their own diameter.
What is your opinion on this thought? Math is out of my category.
Barrel vibration modes:
1. Barrels droop; and must surely straighten up when charged with
50,000 psi. And perhaps go farther than just straight.
2. When the bullet pushes against the lands the barrel must undergo
torsional strain.
3. The barrel swells a little as the bullet travels up the bore.
4. The barrel also swells from the gas pressure, both in diameter
and length.
5. As when jerking on a fishing rod, the far end descends first
before rising.
6. Our non symmetrical rifle actions also contribute to barrel vibrations,
most likely in a diagonal direction.
I'm sure there are other modes too.
Have you seen the book "Rifle Accuracy Facts" by Harold Vaughn. A
very technical book concerning the vibrational mechanics of rifle actions,
barrels, etc. A must have item for techies. You will not be disappointed.
Ron N.
Ron N. <rcn8@accnorwalk.com>
USA - Saturday, March 20, 1999 at 19:40:54 (ZULU)
I will be there. I hope to meet many of you there! I also hope to BEAT you squarely in this competition! There is my challenge. We have all grown with this site and we have all enjoyed the camaraderie it has brought. Now lets get down to a little good old fashioned hard charging’ competition! You think you can take me? GREAT! Shell out the entry fee and lets go at it folks! Win or lose, you will have done a good thing!
If you think you are HOT enough, contact SMTC at 304-446-5526. Just because Carlos has passed there is no reason we can not still champion his cause.
Scott Powers <xring@voicenet.com>
USA - Saturday, March 20, 1999 at 19:43:40 (ZULU)
Shooter:
I am proud to say that I am not an engineer. I have had my belly
full of those guys at work. A ton of booklearning and not one ounce of
common sense. However, as a machinist I think that you might be missing
a very important point. A big cause of wandering groups in rifles is caused
by heat. Anything that can be done to keep a barrel cool is a benefit.
Fluting increases surface area and thus helps keep a barrel cool. A cool
fluted barrel will wander less that a hot solid barrel. Especially so if
the solid barrel has internal stresses in it from straightening. So in
a way, a fluted barrel, (if made right) is indeed stiffer than a a full
diameter barrel. The same goes for a short versus a long barrel. If you
apply x amount of heat to the chamber end of a barrel and one side cools
faster that the other side due to the wind or places that the air can't
circulate (such as the underside of the barrel where it is close to the
stock) you get Y amount of bending of the barrel. The shorter the barrel,
the less amount of deflection. That is why short barrels are more accurate
than long barrels all else being equal. No disrespect intended.
Why do they shot-peen piston rods anyway?
Steve <nato@bright.net>
S.C.D.H., Ohio, USA - Saturday, March 20, 1999 at 20:36:24 (ZULU)
How do they compare to the Valdada products?
Thanks,
Steve
Steve <stepmont@hotmail.com>
Roswell, NM, USA - Saturday, March 20, 1999 at 23:22:00 (ZULU)
Tony Y.'s post got me to thinkin' about something I ran across on the Web some time ago. Does anyone remember hearing about something that was called the 'Bradford Blast' or something similar? From what I remember from the Web site I found, this was a long distance accuracy competition/fun shoot somewhere in Idaho, I believe. All shots were from a bench. Distances began at about 300 y/m for relative beginners going to 1000+yd/mtrs. Targets were - now get this - soda pop cans loaded with dynamite!! Needless to say, when you got a hit, everyone knew it. Weapons went up to .50 BMG and, last I heard, someone had actually brought in a 20MM shoulder fired "rifle". At the extreme far end of the course, just in front of the hills ringing the area, they would tie a few of the cans to strings and hang them from tree branches. I saw mention of one gentleman who cut the string on his can. When he was treated with the 'lucky shot' comments, he turned around and did it again!!?? That's way out of my class. (To be honest, I do think it was more than a little lucky.)
In any case, it was just a fairly vague memory that just popped up. Any thoughts, comments, or whatever might be interesting.
Keep 'em in the X ring.
George, jsut one of the 'Bees'
George L. Derry <george@ebmud.com>
Oakland, CA, USA - Sunday, March 21, 1999 at 01:10:59 (ZULU)
In order to confuse the barrel harmonics thing a little, see what
ya think of this: If the energy that imparts the barrel movement is concentrically
applied, wouldn't that mean the vibration would move down the barrel in
a concentric fashion also? In other words, instead of the barrel "whipping"
along its length like a sine wave, woouldn't the barrel just expand along
its length with the moving energy, kind of like "bulging" in a moving ring
around the barrel as the energy moves towards the muzzle?
Joe
USA - Sunday, March 21, 1999 at 04:45:17 (ZULU)
Torsten, got some good dope on the 174 grain bullets, e-mail me a
flame or something so that I get your address again, my machine dumped
that portion of memory
longline <longline@worldfront.com>
wa, USA - Sunday, March 21, 1999 at 06:38:06 (ZULU)
QUESTION- DOES ANYBODY USE A VEST, SUCH AS TYPE EAGLE SELLS AS THEIR SNIPER VEST, IT LOOKS VERY LIKE IT COULD BE USEFUL, BUT AS FAR AS FUNCTIONAL.
THANKS
JFW <JACKWILSON@ANGELFIRE.COM>
USA - Sunday, March 21, 1999 at 06:41:43 (ZULU)
I see im gonna have to invest in another rifle for long range shooting. This doesnt bother me to much since i have a wife who is pretty lenient with the pocket book. She didnt even scream when i bought the 7400.
Thanks for any info. You can post to the roster or email directly. Thanks for a great place.
Jeff Argo
Jet100@bellsouth.net
Jeff Argo <Jet100@bellsouth.net>
Nashville, tn, USA - Sunday, March 21, 1999 at 14:42:51 (ZULU)
Shooting ranges: Does anyone know of a range in southern Michigan/northern Indiana where I can shoot at ranges greater than 400 yards? Preferably out to 800, 1,000....my local club has 200 max, and my place behind the house is only good for 400 before the roll of the land puts me too low to shoot prone-- and then there's the corn to contend with come spring! Also anxious to locate someplace within reasonable driving distance that holds tac rifle matches. As I am unable to check SC daily, any help that could be emailed directly would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Ned
Ned <michigun@hotmail.com>
3R, Michigan, USA - Sunday, March 21, 1999 at 16:24:51 (ZULU)
Now I need to get a set. Are there any Badger dealers or do I order them directly from the factory ?
thanks
Andrew Bielech <mysig@fast.net>
Broomall, PA, USA - Sunday, March 21, 1999 at 17:56:10 (ZULU)
B.Rogers <brogers@elkhart.com>
USA - Sunday, March 21, 1999 at 17:59:20 (ZULU)
Scott what is the Email address to use for you?
Pete you are the dude.
Mike M <DMMDNLN@AOL.COM>
Calif, USA - Sunday, March 21, 1999 at 18:22:37 (ZULU)
For those of you that have Colt Flat Tops, would you rather have high/super high rings mounted on the flat top, or medium rings with a separate riser on the flat top? If you like a separate riser, which one?
Now that we "think" that Leupold will come out with a 3.5-10 M3 with sun shade threads, is it worth waiting for? Would the use of an ARD such as the Tonnebrea(sp?) be just as good?
Does anyone have a cost comparison for reloaded vs. factory ammo, particularly 270, 7mag, 308 and 300 mag? If you are shooting less than 500 rounds of a particular caliber per year, is it worth the cost of a higher end set of reloading supplies?
Bolt <mbolt34547@aol.com>
USA - Sunday, March 21, 1999 at 19:08:11 (ZULU)
To The M1a Experienced:
Any more thoughts on 1st round from the magazine fliers? I know
that this was touched upon a few months ago. (Just touched)
Thank-you in advance.
Dennis <usmcspud@aol.com>
Merced, Ca, USA - Sunday, March 21, 1999 at 22:23:42 (ZULU)
Now, I'm glad you emphasized "think"... They said one was in the works, but that doesn't always mean that it'll make it out to see the light of day. If that turns out to be the case, I'd think along the lines of getting a spare ring and threading it myself, or find some threadless hood that would fit.
I also asked about BDC cams for the 175gr that's come out, and about the 173gr. Response was that they HAD a 173gr for the MkIV M3, but it has been discontinued, and they don't have it for the VX-III M3. The don't have plans for a 175gr cam for either scope at this time. They do have a blank cam for the MkIV M3, but not for the 3.5-10 LR M3.
So, I'm still going to look for one, hoping to find one for less... either used, near wholesale, or something. Speaking of:
Jim Liles: I resent the email to you, I'm still interested... email me, post a message, call me, anything PLEASE! Thx!
Now, if I can only convince Mrs. Unertl to make a version of the
Corps' scope for public consumption... LOL!
Rock <lnbright@juno.com>
TN, USA - Monday, March 22, 1999 at 01:11:40 (ZULU)
To all:
With spring upon us I would like to take this opportunity to remind
all of you that BEARS are coming out of hibernation. The US department
of Wildlife suggests you should wear little bells on your clothing to warn
the bears of your aproach when hiking in bear habitat. It is also suggested
that you carry Pepper spray for self-defense against these animals. There
are two main types of bears in North America, the Black Bear, and the Grizzly
Bear. Of the two, the Grizzly Bear is the most dangerous. One can easily
determine which type of bear is in your area by examing bear droppings.
The droppings of The Black Bear will contain things like fur from dead
animals, berry seeds, beeswax, and fish bones. The droppings of the Grizzly
Bear will contain lots of little bells and smell like pepper.
Steve <nato@bright.net>
S.C.D.H., Ohio, USA - Monday, March 22, 1999 at 02:22:08 (ZULU)
Dub Ball- AWG INTEGRATED
PO Box 20834
OKC, OK 73156
P 405/751-6427
F 405/755-2702
www.awgi.com
Tell Dub that I referred you, we were just talking about me referring him on this page if it where useful for him, I hate when people overstep their bounds before asked. He had no prior knowledge of this site.
Sarge
Thanks.
JFW <jackwilson@anglefire.com>
USA - Monday, March 22, 1999 at 03:56:07 (ZULU)
Jeff Argo:
The model 7400 is a hell of a gun, but it's not for long range in the fact that it is an autoloader. You will be limited on bullet types and weights, such as you probably don't want to be shooting pointy bullets. It is a good close range gun, lots of womp. If you were to go to a bolt action, I'd stay with 30-06 or maybe 270 for reloading purposes, hell you'll have all that brass from the 7400.
Hey, just went through the albums looking for photos of the old man for X-rings thing, Found a pic of his sniper school, 4th infantry Division Sniper school, kinda neat.
later
JR <mrpink@rapidnet.com>
rapid city, sd, USA - Monday, March 22, 1999 at 04:54:11 (ZULU)
My older M1A (circa late '70s) has a NM barrel too and is described as being a light heavy taper. Mine is marked SAK near the chamber and was made by Maremont Corp, a long time defense contractor. I'm pretty sure they made M60s too. These are excellent barrels and are spoken of highly by people you have had them.
Rock,
I talked to John and Elsie Unertl about that same matter about 10
to 15 years ago when they used to set up at Camp Perry. It was a no go
then, citing economic reasons.
Ron N.
Ron N. <rcn8@accnorwalk.com>
USA - Monday, March 22, 1999 at 11:59:52 (ZULU)
This is for the guy who didn't think HS wanted to make a Savage stock and didn't understand why we'd be willing to pay for one. He totally misses the point. A replacement stock, at least to me, has little to do with an over all increase in accuracy. Many factory stocks will do just find in this area. Others will not. But it is in the area of strength and feel that the after market stock shines. Compared to a cheap plastic stock, the HS stock (as well as the McMillians, Brown Precisions, and about half a dozen other quality stocks)is a quantum leap. It is for that reason I am willing to buy one. Even if an 10FP shoots no better and still keeps the same moa average, which is quite good at 100 yards, the aftermarket unit gives a person many advanages over the factory plastic stock. They fit better, are stronger, fill your hands better, and settle in more solidly. They do not flex nearly as badly as the factory plastic.
As far as HS not wanting to make an FP stock? There could be nothing
further from the truth. They KNOW there is a market for them and would
certainly like to enter it. After all, they are a business and businesses
to like to make moeny occasionally! So comments to the contrary are just
silly.
Scott <xring@voicenet.com>
USA - Monday, March 22, 1999 at 12:05:39 (ZULU)
To my friend from Norway, you forgot to include the money order! Please contact me!
To ALL: XXXL size shirts are almost out of stock. Those of you who asked I reserve you one please contact me again with your intentions. Anyone interested in this size must contact me directly for availability. Thanks.
Scott <xring@voicenet.com>
USA - Monday, March 22, 1999 at 13:18:27 (ZULU)
I like the article, very well done my friend!
peteR
peteR <PNGREIFF@AOL.COM>
bIG-cITY, bY-GaWd, USA - Monday, March 22, 1999 at 14:26:44 (ZULU)
US Optic Scopes. I have used then only briefly. They have good optics, smooth adjustments and a wide field of view. They are heavy and appear that you could drive nails with them. I just learned that they make some without the bucket size objective and that is a plus. Many companies get the objectives so large that you need an elavator to get a site picture.
Valdada Scopes. Again the adjustments are micket mouse comapred to any of the good scopes out there. Lenses are clear but you need to be able to make adjustments.
Mike
Mike M <DMMDNLN@AOL.COM>
Calif, USA - Monday, March 22, 1999 at 17:48:23 (ZULU)
My past experience owning a 7 mag was that it was a very nice hunting round, although for hunting it showed me nothing that the 270, 06 and 08 hadn't shown me years before on deer and the like. Smoking a 300 win mag? hmmmm. All I know is what I know [and that ain't all that much], but of the several professional hunters / guides I know, the 300wm is the rig carried for north america. This is not saying the 7 is bad...it is not.
If you are talking about a 1,000 yard / meter gun, you owe it to yourself to speak with Bill Wylde. He is on this list from time to time. He has opened my eyes to many truths of long range gunning.
Bruce
Bruce <Bruce@mannlawfirm.com>
USA - Monday, March 22, 1999 at 17:55:53 (ZULU)
Finally got around to checking out this site. I am very impressed with the entire presentation (hats off to the creators). I am a former member of the 82nd ABN, never got to sniper school but fell in love with long range work whilst playing with SOCOM. So, I guess that I would only qualify as a self trained poser (insert sarcastic chuckle).
Speaking of this, dows anyone know of some good distance ranges in the midwest? Something 700 meters plus? I have had to go to Nevada every few weeks to get some range time in and I want to find a place closer to home.
If no one knows of a place, I was also thinking of buying some land in Wisconsin for a private range. If there is any interest in getting access to a private facility, let me know.
Bolt:
Personally, I didn't like the patrol pack as I got some seam seperation
on mine. So, I added some stitching and gave it to a buddy. I currently
use an issue pack for longer duration stuff (if I remember correctly, the
pack nomenclature is "CFP-90"...it's that huge camo job that the Army started
issuing in about '92). However, for short jaunts I had a problem finding
a pack that fit the bill. So, instead of buying and trying a bunch of different
packs, I cut up large and medium ALICE packs and built my own from their
materials. Inclusive in this, I attaches some netting over the entire thing
so I can add natural camo or can tie on some burlap. This allows good tie-in
with my suit. I have the patterns for the pack, as well as a material list,
buried in my filing cabinet somewhere if you would like a copy.
JFW:
I haven't been very happy with vests as designed (although I will
have to check out the one someone mentioned that swings out of the way).
I have an Eagle vest that I have used for awhile now, but it gets in the
way when you have to slither around on your belly. So, I made a strap that
holds the vest against my sides when I need to crawl. Without this, I wouldn't
use it as neither crawling around on top of pouches nor having the vest
flopping around is something I want happening when it counts.
Does anyone out there have any experience with the H&K PSG-1? I was looking at picking one up but would like to know if it is worth the price tag.
Also, I have a friend looking at the Blaser R-93 Tactical, but I can't find any stats on it. Any opinions?
If either of these is in the review section, don't bother with the flames, I will consider myself an idiot if I find them there and will not require additional confirmation of this fact.
Later all
adownie <adownie@interaccess.com>
Naperville, IL, USA - Monday, March 22, 1999 at 22:47:42 (ZULU)
Pablito <condor@mags.net>
USA - Monday, March 22, 1999 at 23:38:29 (ZULU)
Zachary Purvis <bbbkz@stargate.com>
Evans City, Pennsylvania, USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 00:04:34
(ZULU)
You had some questions about the Springfield Armory M1A you have.
As for the NM modifications to the M1A, there are several. I will list
some. NM rear sight with hooded aperture and half minute windage knob and
sight base. NM front sight, either .072 or .062 post. "Unitized" NM gas
system. This means attaching the front band to the gas cylinder with screws
or by welding it. The screws are best. You can buy the NM gas cylinder
from SA. The barrel you got is probably something made for SA by Wilson.
I had one of those on my NM at first. The bore was very rough, and the
throat was ungodly long. After about 3000 rounds it was junk. I rebuilt
the rifle with a McMillan NM heavy fiberglass stock, and a Kreiger Stainless
Heavy match barrel. NM mods to the stock, routing and bedding in the receiver
area, and grinding out the inside of the front ferrule and stock so that
the gas cylinder won't make contact with it. NM trigger so that the pull
is a crisp 4.5 to 5.0 Lbs. I like mine closer to 5.0 as long as it is crisp.
This prevents "Doubling", or getting more than one shot per trigger pull.
Also, don't grease the sear or you may still get doubles. NM mod to the
handguard, epoxy front of the handguard to the gas system and use some
RTV to attach the handguard clip to the handguard. Also, the handguard
needs to be sanded down so it won't touch the stock. For bedding, I like
Bisonite. It is harder to use, but is impervious to solvents and won't
shrink. I almost forgot the NM flash suppressor, this just a standard unit
that has been reamed out with a number 7 taper-pin reamer. I use the Brookfield
op-rod spring guide too. For someone who likes very accurate semi-autos,
this a good choice. Sub-moa is common. But it is heavy.
Bill B <DC8PLUMBER@aol.com>
Shelby Co, KY, USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 00:33:59 (ZULU)
Your input and comments are welcome.....
T2
Anthony Tull <atull@granbury.com>
Granbury, TX, USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 00:42:03 (ZULU)
I have two SA M1A package deals. They came with upgraded barrels, triggers and a N.M. flash surpressor. Clint is not pulling your leg. Fultons N.M. M1As and Springfields N.M. and Super Match are a lot different than ours. There is a lot more N.M. parts and tuning that goes into these guns. Your gun would benefit most from bedding and gas system tuning. Don't get to hung up if you can't get those little sub moa groups. The most important thing is HITTING the target. You don't need a 1/2 moa gun to make hits. My package deal M1As are accurate enough to make hits out to 600 yards and that's what counts. Buy some good match anmo , practice the basics and you will be able to make hits, too. As far as gunsmiths goes, both Fulton and Springfield will do a good job on your rifle. I had the same scope mount you do and had a lot of problems with it. I have been told the Brookfield is the best. A lot of matches have been won with M1As. When the guys at the range are pinging on you about your groups, rest assured you own a winner and they are just jealous.
Maybe after I learn how to use this new computer, I will do an artical for S.C. on what is done to accurize M1As. What do you think? Anyone interrested?
CJ
CJ <T18man@gateway.net>
New caslte, DE, USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 01:19:39 (ZULU)
Somebody asked about Badger Ordnance address: OK OK one more time so you don't have to go to the review page. Badger Ordnance,6302 N. Park Ave. Gladstone, Missouri 64118.
Ok here is question for you barrel efficiandos. Am I being lulled into a false sense of security by using a Douglas barrel. I have bbeen using Douglas Premium XX air-gaged barrels for as long as I can remember. But nobody ever mentions them. Cmon, I'm a big guy! What is wrong with them for tactical shooting as compared to a Hart, Shilen, Krieger, Obermeyer, etc. I do remember building 2 tactical rifles with Shilen 308 1-10 barrels and both sucked with a capital S.
The person asking about a PSG-1 cost is about $7000.00 with all the bells and whistles. Overpriced _Hell Yes. but the way HKs are going up probably a good investment. I still get a woody when I see one!!
Steyr SSG, Excellent rifles, excellent accuracy, but remember you are paying for import duty on these toys also. Hard to keep up with the prices of some these things because they are appreciating so quickly.
Hope this helps.
peteR: Dudu - oops!! Dude, I had a WVa. insult to tell you but I forgot.
Daryl: The upside down one.. Hope things get right side up for you.
Darrell: Let me know about the flight into Cleveland or Akron/Canton>>
Later folkes.
al
Al Ostapowicz <aaostapowicz@nls.net>
Li'l City, Ohio, USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 02:29:32 (ZULU)
al (fly-boy)
Al Ostapowicz <aaostapowicz@nls.net>
Here Again in , Ohier, USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 02:35:29 (ZULU)
Pablito <condor@mags.net>
USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 02:43:22 (ZULU)
D. West <westforce@juno.com>
No sleep, in IL., USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 03:05:20 (ZULU)
H&K PSG-1 - Wouldn't own it, and neither does any military or police (to my knowledge) sniper untis. Over priced and not worth it, except to say I own one. Better ot spend the money on an AR-10 or SR-25 and the rest of the money on equipmetn and ammo, ammo, ammo, for practice. We just shoot the PSG-1 today, as we do every course, and I am always in awe over the ability to make a weapon that heavy and still not that much better. Sorry Al, I can't quite get it up over the PSG-1, looks cool, but too expensive for what you get. Now that Steyr is nice, unless you are going into a dirty environment and then those tight tolerances are a pain. As a police rifle I'm not sure it can be beat though!
On the Blaser - Looked at it at the Shot Show and found it to be interesting. Heard from a number of people good things about it and found the bolt mechanism different. It would take time to get used to, but then would be very fast.
On the SA - the objective lens is hugh and the reticle is BUSY! For myself, I found it to be distracting, some liked it though. I think that it would distract the eye for a precise shot. Really don't know because I have only looked through it and not fired it.
Guess I've babbled about enough again! Still like the idea of the rifle scope as spotter scope. This would allow the spotter to mil with the shooter, give a new life to the vari that is just too powerful for any real shooting, except under "ideal conditions", or that SA 56mm objective that sticks the scope up so high that you just can't get a comfortable cheek weld! :) BeeRogers come up with some more of those!
Rick
Rick <RBowcher@aol.com>
Fayetteville, NC, USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 03:06:43 (ZULU)
Ned
Ned <michigun@hotmail.com>
3R, MI, USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 03:28:45 (ZULU)
no.
unless the shooter was more comfortable with the 7mm.
In all truth it is a time getting a 7 stw to shoot, pain in the ass, all the specs can be exact to the print, and it still has a mind of its own, where as the 300 is a cool shooter, every time. 7mmrem mag?? same situation, different bullets, pain in the ass are most of the hi-velocity 7mms, I dearly love the 7mm-08's. Sorry
JR <mrpink@rapidnet.com>
rapid city, sd, USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 04:03:40 (ZULU)
Is this about as good as a setup like this will get? I have yet to
try shots longer than this but have enough room to try out to 800 or so.
can you recomend a good bullet for this range? Thanks.
R. Conaway <recon@midusa.net>
USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 04:56:47 (ZULU)
Steve:
It wasn't comments on personal experience with it, I had been looking
for info on the scope, and was posting info that Leupold had passed on
to me... info that must be taken with a grain of salt.
It was pointed out to me that the "x100M" dial is for the 175gr
@ 2675 fps with the range in meters; the "x100Y" dial is for the 168gr
@ 2635 fps with the range in yards. (thanks Pablito! ;-)
L8R,
Rock <lnbright@juno.com>
TN, USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 05:37:44 (ZULU)
I spoke to Elsie at Unertl last week, and she says "NO" to the civilian
sales on the Unertl 10x.
Longshadow <longshadow@usa.net>
USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 11:03:35 (ZULU)
L8er all!
Stefan
Stefan <stefan@sniperhide.com>
Somewhere, Someplace, The Netherlands - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at
12:22:36 (ZULU)
Incidentally, those who get T/S may want to read the editorial comments on p.22 of the April issue regarding those who access or post data via the Internet.
"We are not worthy!", "We are not worthy!"
Fly Boy, let me know the ETA so Depity and I can close the 7-11's and Sheetz's on the route. That way all of your shots WILL be at long, LONG range for city boyz.
Darrell-Darrell, Are you sure you know what you're doing?
Chao!
peteR
peteR <PNGREIFF@AOL.COM>
bIG-cITY, bY-gAwD, USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 13:39:02 (ZULU)
Bolt <mbolt34547@aol.com>
USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 13:56:35 (ZULU)
Questions for the masses:
I was drooling over Mike Lau's TBA-M40A1s again, and was going through
the specs for the n'th time. There are two questions that I've often wondered
about the M40A1, not just Mike's version, but seeing it on his page again
prompts me to ask:
1) What does it mean to clip-slot a receiver?
2) Why use a modified Winchester floorplate?
L8R,
Rock <lnbright@juno.com>
TN, USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 14:58:55 (ZULU)
Has any of you guys ever handled a Technicarbon Dynamics stock? (Sarge???) I'm looking into buying one, but with me being in the Netherlands, I can't check out an example..... Any input would be appreciated!
Torsten: Have you started reloading for the Fifty yet? I'll prepare the scuba-gear... As we're going to be together on the Harskamp ranges, we might just as well end up in a deluge again.... How about a Ghillie made out of rubberized burlap? Doens't do much for concealment, I'm afraid, but it sure works for my fetish..... Think about it, mud-lover! (BTW. Your McMillan is left-handed, isn't it??? :-)))
Thanks all!
Stefan out.
Stefan <stefan@sniperhide.com>
Somewhere, Someplace, The Netherlands - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at
15:26:51 (ZULU)
> 1) What does it mean to clip-slot a receiver?
A slot is cut on the front edge of the back receiver bridge, then two small notches are put in the walls of the slot... it is like the slot in Springfield '03, and military Mausers so that stripper clips can be used. The Remington .308 40x repeater rifles have this slot. Some onepiece scope bases use this slot for more support.
2) Why use a modified Winchester floorplate?
Not to sound like I'm bashing Remingtons... but the Winchester floorplate
is solid steel, and the Remington's is aluminum. The USMC spec for the
M40 series rifles is a steel floorplate/triggerguard. The trigger guards
for both of them are aluminum, but they are easely replaced.
Pablito <condor@mags.net>
USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 16:22:28 (ZULU)
Extra info - the barrel had cooled from the previous shots as I had spent time in the pits. I put 5 minutes elevation on before I started the string and actually needed another minute and a half.
J.D.
J.D. Hicks <hicks@zso.dec.com>
Seattle, WA, USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 16:34:50 (ZULU)
1) Thanks for the advice in the past several months. Many responses received regarding what schope I should get for the Rem 700 Police. After much reasearch, reading, suggestions and a whole lot of O.T., bought a LRM1. Going to the range in an hour to zero. Like Christmas all over again.
2) Someone mentioned Eagle's BPP. I had problems with their pack due to the weight I was carrying. Same thing as someone previously mentioned: seam separation. An ex-ranger that joined our team pointed me to an outfit in Virginia, London Bridge Trading Co. Nice packs that they will customize. Off the shelf held up a bit better for me. But, I found a local ex-SF type that makes even better equipment and does all sorts of mods to standard issue equipment, Tactical Tailor. Local and it is still better than others. A bit less expensive. I'm having him do a large ruck mod package right now. For about $100, makes for a new pack that can hold the sometimes 120# loads I may hump.
It's a rare sunny day with no wind up here so I'm off. Gotta break in a new (old) Garand I got from DCM too . . .
Morris
Morris <mparrish@oz.net>
Seattle Metro, WA, USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 18:29:01 (ZULU)
Gary <GSX1166@hotmail.com>
Kansas City, MO, USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 19:01:56 (ZULU)
Someone else previously asked about the torque setting for the factory 700 PSS stock screws. I'd also like to find out this value, if anyone has it.
Third, I called Remington to ask about the procedures for adjusting the factory trigger. All they said was "DON'T TOUCH!". Through trial and error, I figured out that the bottom scew seems to set the trigger pull weight (out for less) and the top screw seems to set the travel (I think it was out for more, but i don't have my notes with me). Does anyone have any "proper" adjustment info for this trigger?
The trigger also has a bit of slack and creep that I didn't like, but I was unable to adjust it out. What's recommended? trigger job? new drop-in trigger, like Shilen?
RE: the post last week about the reliability of Leupolds & Premier Reticles; mine seems fine so far. Picked up the rifle Saturday and mounted the scope Sat night. Fired a couple rounds thru it and it all seems hunky-dory. It was 6" low and 4" left at 30 yards with the scope at zero, with dual-dovetail rings & bases, so now I am switching to STD one-piece base & rings to get it onto paper at 100.
Semper Fi, hogs!
Brian
Brian Meyette <brian@turbont.net>
Cornish, NH, USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 19:22:59 (ZULU)
For those of you who want the strength of steel, but do not want
to go with the hassle of mounting a Winchester guard to a Remington stock
and action, check out Brownells and other companies like them. Times have
changes and these things are readily available from several sources. Several
choices of top notch steel trigger guards can be had for prices that run
from reasonable to insane. HS even offers one that has a detachable mag.
It ain't cheap though!
Scott <target@voicenet.com>
USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 19:32:06 (ZULU)
However,I can't see why you find the high velocity 7mm classs cartridges such as waste of time and hassle.Is your opinion based on personal experience or is your bias based on a preference for .30 cal cartridges.
I suppose any one of us could have a bad experience with any cartridge on any particular day.But to slam an entire class of cartridges? To make such a statement, I'm going to assume you've had experience with every high velocity 7mm cartridge that has been designed.Is this a fair assumption?
7mm bullets,generally speaking,have a higher ballistic co-efficient than .30 cal bullets for any comparable bullet weight.So the in-accuracy you mention is probably not bullet related (assuming you were using quality made bullets to begin with).It probably has more to do either with your rifle(s) or your reloading technique,if in fact you do indeed reload your own ammunition.
My very first target rifle,a Remington Sendero,is in 7mm Rem Mag.The very first group I had shot was sub-1 moa.My experience with this cartridge is exactly the opposite of what you are claiming.
I'll be the first to admit that I've never owned a .300 Win Mag before.However,I did consider it before I purchased the Sendero.
To this date my average 3 shot group is .795 moa.I've shot roughly 700 rounds through it so far.
As far as 7mm Rem Mag is concerned,in my opinion it is a more practical entry level cartridge for those wishing to shoot magnum cartridges.The advatages I've experienced are as follows:
(1)Recoil:Basically put,if you can handle a .30/06 in terms of recoil you shouldn't have any problems with 7 Rem Mag.Can you say this about .300 Win Mag?
(2)Barrel life:You are burning on average between 11-13 grains more powder in a .300 Win Mag to get between 150-200 fps more out of a .30 cal bullet than you could a 7mm.Does this sound really efficient to you?The increased powder charge results in more heat thus more barrel and throat errosion.Yadda,Yadda,Yadda.In the end you can probably expect longer barrel life with 7 Rem Mag over a .300 Win Mag.
Every cartridge has its positive and negative attributes when comparing one to another.In the end it is the shooter who will have to decide which cartridge suits his needs best.
I'm certainly going to add a .300 magnum to my stable fairly shortly.I'm leaning to a .300 Weatherby or .308 Norma Magnum (.30/.338 Win)
I'm not trying to start:The 7mm Rem Mag vs. .300 Win Mag Debate
I just want to point out that the the high velocity 7mm magnum cartridges
deserve more respect than what you give them.
All the Best,
Jeff Babineau <j.babineau@ns.sympatico.ca>
Truro, N.S. , Canada - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 20:04:08 (ZULU)
I am heating my house with the heat my full auto .50 press generates
!:)
Should have about 150 Round´s of 780 gn Monolithic Match (@
8 DM/rd.) for our little can shoot.
I´ll make sure to bring my NBC Mask with me for that kinky
rubber Ghillie show !
Any info on the date ? We will probably Air drop with a team of two. Can you stake out our LZ ? Also please check on the KNSA question !
Mud ? ?? there better be some ! I hate going home clean !
"Ende"
Torsten <lasercon@dialup.globe.de>
Germany - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 20:05:35 (ZULU)
The Remington trigger, is easily adjustable as three screws are provided for the task. Looking at the left side of it you'll see an access hole that allows you to actually see the sear engagement. When you look into the top of the trigger housing you see a shiny pivoting bar that Remington calls the "sear safety cam". Odd name but I'll use it. I'm going to assume that you have the barreled action in a vise and the bolt is removed and the chamber empty. The top screw in front of the trigger housing is for over-travel. Push down on the sear safety cam with a slender object while looking at the access hole. You'll see it stops when it hits the "trigger connector". If you pull the trigger now you'll see that the trigger connector moves out of the way to allow the sear safety cam to fall. The over-travel screw must allow for this to happen, but without excess travel of the trigger after the firing pin falls. I don't think that there is an exact clearance specified. I would guess that .010" would be safe and reasonable. The bottom screw on the front of the trigger presses against a spring which in turn pushes against the trigger connector and returns it to battery, ready for the next cocking action. Backing out that screw will lighten the trigger pull somewhat, but not a lot. The screw on the backside of the housing is for sear engagement. That determines how far the trigger connector moves rearward under the sear safety cam. I would start with about .015" engagement. Put the bolt in the action and lock it down. Pull the trigger slowly and you'll probably feel a little creep before the firing pin falls. Move the screw in about 1/4 turn and recock. Try again. Eventually you'll get to a point where the firing pin falls but there is almost no trigger movement.
When you are satisfied with your job now you want to check that the sear is safe under most conditions. Cock the firing pin once again with the rifle assembled. Now with your fist bump the buttstock quite firmly trying to make the firing pin fall. Bump on all sides of the buttstock..... top, bottom, etc. Now with the muzzle pointing up bump the butt plate on the floor a couple of times. All this will assure you that you have a reasonably safe rifle. Also, with the rifle cocked, partially lift and lower the bolt handle several times. This will wiggle the sear safety cam a little. Put the safety on and pull the trigger firmly. Now pull the safety off and partially lift and lower the bolt handle several times once again. Also, close the bolt quite forcefully a few times on an empty chamber. Of course the firing pin must not fall. If it does fall, increase the sear engagement until it ceases to happen. Do what you can to make the gun fail while it is in your basement under your control.
When you are satisfied with your work then seal each screw with clear fingernail polish. I always degrease everything before I start so that the sealant gets a good bite.
Remington has had many variations of this trigger through the years, but the sear engagement screw and over-travel have always been in the same place. The spring tension screw has been moved around several times, especially on the 40Xs.
Well I hope this helps you. Don't be afraid to experiment, but always finish up with a safe rifle. If you can, pick up a spare trigger at a gunshow. This way you can take it apart, clean it, and know how they work. There is only a couple of parts in them so you can not go wrong. The day will come when Remington triggers will not be adjustable.
That's about all I know about them.
Of course all appropriate disclaimers apply.
Ron N.
Ron N. <rcn8@accnorwalk.com>
USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 20:40:10 (ZULU)
Thanks
Grey <greywuuf@alaska.net>
Alaska, USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 21:14:21 (ZULU)
All: So, how about that Technicarbon stock, huh?
Stefan out. Click.
Stefan <stefa@sniperhide.com>
Somewhere, Someplace, The Netherlands - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at
21:22:30 (ZULU)
im looking for information about the Heckler & Koch G36 Weapon System, accuracy, reliability and just about everything.
anyone
Jonny
Jonny <sniper_is@hotmail.com>
- Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 22:23:26 (ZULU)
Barry
Barry Chance <Barry_Chance@maxtor.com>
Longmont, CO, USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 22:59:11 (ZULU)
I have a Technicarbon Dynamics stock on my 308. The rifle was originally bedded in an HS tactical (M24 style) stock. I sold this stock. I had, on impulse, ordered a Technicarbon stock after talking to Walt. I had no barrelled action for it until I had to sell the M24.
Anyway, I just "dropped in" the barreled action and tightened the action screws. No bedding as of yet. The barrel floats from the recoil lug out; the only change in scope adj. was one MOA; and the rifle ,after approx 200-225 rds. has had no shift, and will still shoot 1/4 to 1/3 MOA if positioned steadily.
I personally think this stock is the "ergonomic equal" of my favorite stock config. which is the McMillan A2. I am able to hold at prone with no stress whatsoever on wrist/forearm. I beleive this is due to the near to verticle grip. And the rear butt config makes for easy positioning of rear bag.
It has an excellent feel and balance. I ordered it in black with the thumb screw attached cheek piece. I fits perfectly. Walt delivered approx 2-3 weeks after I ordered.
I will probably have Hook Boutin bed with Devcon at some point. I beleive in the bedding process, however, like I said, so far, it's been a pleasure shooting with this stock.
I realize some of my comments are subjective, but I agree with Scott(Xring) about the aspects of look/feel/balance, if you will, that are advantages of many of the aftermarket stocks. I hardily recommend giving this stock a try.
I've misplaced Walt's phone no. so if you have it will you give it to me, please. I've been wanting to call him and thank him for his product.
Hope this helps. If you've any more specific questions, please feel
free to ask, and I will do my best to answer.
Jeff A. <d1k2l3@aol.com>
Smyrna, Ga, USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 23:48:23 (ZULU)
Stefan - sorry dude TechniCarbon never came through with a stock
to evaluate! Someone here did have one but seems they had no action to
put in it??? Maybe they can help!
OK guys I need a load for .223 BOLT gun am WAY open to suggestions
of any set-up.
Sarge slides back in the hide and waits!
Sarge <garryrn@dfn.com>
Area 51, NM, USA - Tuesday, March 23, 1999 at 23:51:54 (ZULU)