Sniper Country Duty Roster collective wisdom


Painting a barrel?:


HEEEEEELLLLLLPPPPP!!!

I just bought a Savage .270 and the dern barrel is shiny. I need to know if there is any way to make it black or brown or something without paying to have it blued. I was thinking of using High Temperature spray paint but didn't want to do this without asking a second opinion. What are my options here?

Thanks,
Nathan
Nathan Bendel <nbendel@yahoo.com>
Taft, CA, USA - Thursday, August 03, 2000 at 02:10:21 (ZULU) (your host address: 209.165.36.28)


Nathan,
You can paint a shiny barrel with a spray can of muffler paint available at any auto parts store for under $4. Radiates heat big time and really adds class.

CDC <criscurt@isu.edu>
USA - Thursday, August 03, 2000 at 03:23:06 (ZULU) (your host address: 134.50.232.20)


Nathan.

Clean the outer surface of your barrel with rubbing alcohol, (dont touch the cleaned surface with your skin) plug the barrel with an old ear plug, then attack that puppy with your choice color of Rustolium. Prime it if you feel the need. Its the poor mans blueing solution.

Unless you are belt feeding that thing you dont need to worry about high temperature paint.

Out here
Gooch <kentgooch@hotmail.com>
USA - Thursday, August 03, 2000 at 04:16:42 (ZULU) (your host address: 129.71.17.179)


A quick comment on the Savage 110FP. I have one in 7.62x51. From the factory the stock was just too light. I replaced it with the Choate (Maj. Plaster) stock and improved my three round group 60%. I would recommend it to anyone with the FP. I use a Springfield 2nd Generation, range finding scope, double mounted. The Choate stock has camoflage tie down areas for Ghillie type attachments. There was a question by Jeromy about painting a rifle earlier, and I would advise against it, due to the relationship between retained heat and shortness of barrel life. Painting the stock is fine, there are a few brands of outdoor paints (used for duck blinds, mostly) that will work on synthetic and natural stocks. Just remember to use flat paints. Camoflage patterns should follow the type of area you snipe in. In N. Carolina a dark pine type pattern would probably be your best bet. Fit into your surroundings. Semper Fi everyone!
Charles Hopkins <IcyDeath@prodigy.net>
Orange Park, Fl, USA - Saturday, August 05, 2000 at 12:36:58 (ZULU) (your host address: 38.2.209.21)
Charles...

Good morning.

"...due to the relationship between retained heat and shortness of barrel life."

I would like to know if this is a documented fact, and if so, what is the source of this information... or is this a "feeling" that you have.

Remington "paints" the barrels on many of their factory guns, (including the popular PSS)... as does several other manufactures.
Painting, and powder coating is getting very common.

Many of the very best tactical and sniper rifles made, have "painted" barrels... and aftermarket companies are doing a brisk business in finishes like "Roguard", which is a nice paint.

As best as I know, there has NEVER been a documented case of decreased barrel life due to painting or coating.

Even in a match, the barrels don't get that hot, unless (as Gooch said) they are belt fed.

So if ths is true... about 90% of the guys on this site, are going to sit down and weep.
So please give the source of this info.

'lito

Pablito <condor@mags.net>
USA - Saturday, August 05, 2000 at 13:23:59 (ZULU) (your host address: 24.188.89.243)


Just paint it! Dont get it on the muzzle, dont get it on the lenses or the elevation and windage knobs and just paint it.
Dave

Dave Biggers <pathfinder27th@hotmail.com>
Ft. Worth, Texas, USA - Saturday, August 05, 2000 at 13:25:12 (ZULU) (your host address: 168.191.176.111)


Pablito,
Hello! On the topic of painting the barrel, I'm not sure where I got the info on retained heat. It was about 7 or so years ago, when the cryrogenic treatment of barrels was the new hype. You are very correct about sniper rifles (if used as such) generating that much heat. We were always told "two is too many" (the whole one shot, one kill Marine Corps thing). Especially considering that I only had a 1911-A1 as backup (plus my spotter). The basis of the keeping paint off the barrel may be completely unsubstantiated and may just have been against the policy of our STA platoon with 3rd Recon. Even if the deterioration of accuracy due to heat holds true, which is more important, the being off mark by 3 inches, or not being seen? I prefer to keep a matte black, factory barrel, and using ghillie attached to stock and scope. That way if I'm out of my usual area I just switch ghillie patterns. A green barrel (or woodland) sticks out like a sore thumb in the desert, where straight jute canvas tends to blend better. Just my opinion. Thanks for your reply. Semper Fi!
Charles Hopkins <IcyDeath@prodigy.net>
Orange Park, Fl, USA - Saturday, August 05, 2000 at 21:24:50 (ZULU) (your host address: 63.253.149.158)
Paint on barrels. USMC teaches to do it and the user manual for the M40A1 showed you how to do it.

Gooch <kentgooch@hotmail.com>
USA - Sunday, August 06, 2000 at 01:04:46 (ZULU) (your host address: 129.71.17.139)


The Jammies you need are called "Snake Skins" they are camo elastic cloth. They come designed to cover the whole rifle but I cut them in half and cover the barrel end with the small half. Then use the middle to make scope Jammies by slitting a 4 inch cut and slipping it over one end of the scope and then the other. The rest can be pushed up to make 3D Jammies that protect the gun while you're crawling. Or cover the stock. IT works pretty well and you're gun finish won't be mauled. This stuff usually will stay put during a crawl due to the elastic nature. I think it comes in a brown camo and green.
Bill Rogers <brogers@elkhart.com>
USA - Sunday, August 06, 2000 at 03:34:02 (ZULU) (your host address: 209.184.248.252)
Just paint the dam guns. There is absolutely NO barrel heat build up due to painting of the weapon. We have been doing it for years and still get over 5000, going onto 7000 or more on alot of weapons, rounds in our M24s. As far as jammies for the weapon I have seen too many times when the barrel has been trapped by the camo and thus you no longer have a free floated barrel. THAT does damage to your accuracy at all ranges. As far as changing camo, heck paint is fast and accurate, as far as dark green for NC, you will probably get caught. High up in the green pines it is dark, on the ground is very light tan dead saw grass and pampas type grass. The color of the burlap, not pastic, sand bags are very close as is the color of natural burlap soaked in a strong tea and/or coffee solution for a few days.

Rick
Rick <rbowcher@aol.com>
Fayetteville, NC, USA - Sunday, August 06, 2000 at 04:09:45 (ZULU) (your host address: 152.163.206.203)


About the barrel camo...Way back when Dave Reed 1st started this site (its probably somewhere in archives) he mentioned an idea about bead/or heavy grit sand blasting a barrel. I took my VSSF and had it heavy grit blasted, not so much for the supposed cooling effect but for dulling the finish. Works. Looks like a stick or nothing, have to see to believe. Another alternative is to take the leftover "pulls" of burlap from your ghillie and spray adhesive (3M 77 is good) on the barrel and then dropping this stuff on the barrel. Seems like I always have plenty of the burlap strands on the floor, even after I have cleaned the A/O !!! Just some more alternatives.

Will <willadams@mindspring.com>
USA - Sunday, August 06, 2000 at 13:02:25 (ZULU) (your host address: 199.174.148.197)


Nothing wrong with painting your rifle, cept you got one painted for just one terrain. The "Snakes" won't ruin your accuracy or hold too much heat. Camo tape gets wet and accuracy goes to hell that is if you wrap it around the barrel and stock and across the free float gap. Don't confuse the "Snakes" with "gun chaps" cause gun "chaps" will ruin your accuracy fast. You can paint for the terrain your in and use chaps when you get in a different color back ground or do the burlap (loose wrap) to break up the outline. Burlap gets wet too though. If "Snakes" get wet they don't retain a lot of moisture. I hate having to remove the paint but it's not going to cause heat build up. Oh yes, I use white socks in the snow in the winter time just cut one end out of knee length socks. I doubt Rick has that "white" problem where he lives. Sometimes I change terrain colors 2 or 3 times a day *in melting snow conditions. That would take a lot of paint. Some guys around here use that Bow paint that just washes off but it's not quite that simple. Some sniper applications might be a bit too rigorius for the chaps but I've not found that to be true in these rocks and sage and cedar mesa's of this country. Paint the hell out of her if you like but chaps cost $10 apiece that will do a rifle and scope.

Bill Rogers <brogers@elkhart.com>
USA - Sunday, August 06, 2000 at 13:45:30 (ZULU) (your host address: 209.184.248.252)


By the way, where are all these painted guns from factories? Are we talking stocks? Most guns are blued on bead blasted metal, Actually the shinny ones are blued too but he metal is polished much more like colt python pistols and R..gg.r rifles. Leupold uses some kind of finish on their matte but I think the metal may be rougher than the shiny model uses. Parkerized guns have kind of disappeared except for some PSS models. That's a good finish for dulling things and providing rust protection I always thought. Wasn't someone parkerizing with a couple of colors at least to provide some camo effect? Bead blasting and reblueing works wonders to take the shine off of course that's been said.
Bill Rogers <brogers@elkhart.com>
USA - Sunday, August 06, 2000 at 14:00:22 (ZULU) (your host address: 209.184.248.252)
OH yes some might want to go this way, Remington uses an epoxy resin to cover their rifles like the ADL BDL wood models. You can repair chips and dents on them with expoxy resin if you are careful to keep it from running. Finn Aggard took epoxy resin and mixed it with sand and actually finished a rifle with it. I bet it would do a number on your hands but if you mixed colors with it and then bead blasted the epoxy it would probably last forever and be a dull finish and moisture barrier that wouldn't quit. I haven't tried it yet so do something other than your favorite gun first. After free floating a wood barrel epoxy resin to coat the inside will stabilize the wood warp to some extent. Mix small amounts and brush it on quickly keep it level till it sets up cause that stuff runs bad...it will be shiny but it's on the inside (forever!). All in a days work for Ote hunters.
Bill Rogers <brogers@elkhart.com>
USA - Sunday, August 06, 2000 at 14:11:52 (ZULU) (your host address: 209.184.248.252)
'Lito was right on about the Roguard being a high tech paint. And it wears off on corners like a high tech paint after a few hundred presentations from a holster.

Bravo <Bravo762@yahoo.com>
e-home, USA - Sunday, August 06, 2000 at 14:37:39 (ZULU) (your host address: 209.180.85.244)


Camoflaging Bolt Guns:

I have a little bit different idea. I would rather not paint up my rifle, all else being even, and the 2-D camo offered by paint has it's limitations anyway. My thought was a loose-fitting wrap of lightweight camo netting like No-See-Um mesh secuired by a couple of bands of small diamter inner tube rubber from a racing bicycle. The low mass nature of the material and means of securuing it would seem to imply minimal change to POI and the loose fit with a few bow ties of additional netting would tend to disrupt that pipe-sticking-out-of-bush effect that even a painted barrel gives you. Another through was to go into the top edge of the barrel channel in the stock and inlet several machine nuts and have some small blackened screw to thread into them, this being the means to secure material to the forend. a simple chap to go around the butstock made out of an old BDU pantsleg with a few bows of camo netting added and you can develop a system of rapidly interchangable Ghillified camo packages for the rifle.

Its a thought.

-Tom

Tom Simpson <bullet@sc.rr.com>
Colatown, SC, USA - Sunday, August 06, 2000 at 15:54:21 (ZULU) (your host address: 24.31.204.125)


Camo Coloration:

It would seem to me that, here in the white pine forests that blanket much central and costal South Carolina, the natural target for a paint scheme woud be to blend you in to pine straw while shooting from under or about a subtropical bush in a tree line or pines. In that setting a natural choice of colors would be Rustoleum brown primer highlighted with diagonal streaks of black and patches of a fairly bright green.

-Tom
Tom Simpson <bullet@sc.rr.com>
Colatown, SC, USA - Sunday, August 06, 2000 at 16:27:07 (ZULU) (your host address: 24.31.204.125)


On Camo - Tom, I am in the Sand Hills and forget that other regions of NC and SC does actualy have green some of the time. However, be very careful with the darker colors. You are actually better going lighter (NOT WHITE!!!) then you are going darker. Even the pine needles on the forest floor is surprisingly light tan to brown. The eye sees objects in certain ways that create problems for the sniper. Light Dark is one of them. At SMTC last year all were caught by being too dark, NOT too light. There are no natural BLACK objects. All are man made and will attract the eye. Black even stands out in the dark as a very dark shadow within a shadow. The biggest problem of the barrel is the round circle presented by the muzzle. The line of the barrel is easily broken with grass or burlap tied to the barrel but not restricting the barrel.

Rick <rbowcher@aol.com>
Fayetteville, NC, USA - Sunday, August 06, 2000 at 20:40:11 (ZULU) (your host address: 152.163.206.182)


On painting rifles. I just keep changing the colors until they get slick and then wipe it all off with Acetone and start again. No change to anything with or without the paint. I use a wrap around the rifle, of Ghillie Material for stalking.

Undude
MikeMiller <Tactical@tacticalintervention.com>
Calif, USA - Sunday, August 06, 2000 at 23:13:57 (ZULU) (your host address: 205.188.200.57)


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